Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

SneakerGrinch Unfortunately, it's not about any upgrades that David could do. It all comes down to the workers, who have no idea how to treat EL panels and glue. I am certain that when these are made, they are slapping glue on the soles and spilling it onto the area where the EL is (not knowing that this will destroy the EL panel backing). Since these workers probably are not used to electronics in shoes, they don't know that this kills the EL. The other issue we have had is the weak part of the EL in the middle that breaks. Every show that I saw had the EL shoved into the sole and was bent, which broke that part of the EL. This again could be easily avoided if the workers knew what they were doing. All they need to do is be careful installing the panel and not bend it.
 
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I just sent off to have separate EL panel domes made a few days ago. Hoping this will be a more durable solution to the current EL panel issues. I am still trying to think of the easiest way for people to install these though. I thought about connecting the domes similar to the way the were before, but instead of EL connection...would be white silicone wire going between the domes. And then you could just plug in a single connection like you would with a regular panel replacement. My other idea is to just make a Y splitter so each dome is completely independent. Not sure what I'll do yet, anyone have any opinions?
 
I just sent off to have separate EL panel domes made a few days ago. Hoping this will be a more durable solution to the current EL panel issues. I am still trying to think of the easiest way for people to install these though. I thought about connecting the domes similar to the way the were before, but instead of EL connection...would be white silicone wire going between the domes. And then you could just plug in a single connection like you would with a regular panel replacement. My other idea is to just make a Y splitter so each dome is completely independent. Not sure what I'll do yet, anyone have any opinions?

i like the y split idea
just remember to either get thicker wire
or add some plastic encasement under insole where wires run in smoothly
but than again the wires running to the board need to be protected.
 
Not sure what I'll do yet, anyone have any opinions?

Based on my personal experiences with these shoes, the wire itself is a problem. In my case, with one shoe, the wire moved in side that little slot and wore away the insulation to the point where the bear copper now shorted.
With the other shoe, the wire broke completely. The connecting wires on both panels seemed OK.

Big question I have is, once you get the buckle off (cutting it off is really the only way?) how glued in are the wires? Can they be pulled out to get a new wiring loom down?
 
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don jon How did you get the buckle off? It doesn't look like you cut it off like on other pairs I have seen.
 
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@Jedifyfe This seems to be a very common issue as in all of my wear pairs I've had over the past year eventually after 2-3 wears this would happen, then I would just end up getting another pair. Maybe in the V4s this is fixed? or will we have to wait for the v4.1s? Or should we even be wearing them at all?! lol since even Nike says the rds where inteneded for display only...

interesting fault - none of mine have done that - (I have 2 pr V3's and 1 pr V3.1's) have worn each pair a few times though mostly the first V3's and - when that pair broke, it was only the connecting wire between the 2 EL dome halves. I've worn them the most (they are the pair I'm replacing the soles on) and they took months to even do that. Luck of the draw, maybe?
 
At cavx, i just followed Jedyfire's turorial, but instead of just doing half the buckle, i did all of it.
Btw i used 120 ohmm resistors, but i recommend 100 ohmm because these are ok but i actually like em a lil brighter. Im pretty sure that when i add the clear polish they will look more defined.
 
cavx, looks good - just remember the part of the side pieces that go under the sole (i think it would be extra to what you have here) are very thin compared to the side wall on the original soles. Hope these photos help.
IMG_20171103_060724.jpgIMG_20171103_060849.jpg
 
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At cavx, i just followed Jedyfire's turorial, but instead of just doing half the buckle, i did all of it.
Btw i used 120 ohmm resistors, but i recommend 100 ohmm because these are ok but i actually like em a lil brighter. Im pretty sure that when i add the clear polish they will look more defined.

In your photo it doesn't look like you cut the part off. I was hoping you had some good news here.

@cavx, looks good - just remember the part of the side pieces that go under the sole (i think it would be extra to what you have here) are very thin compared to the side wall on the original soles. Hope these photos help.
View attachment 770694View attachment 770695

Yeah I need to add that little lip on the main wing and not sure how I will do the two inner wings yet.
 
@cavx
You have news about "Nike Bag Footwear" ?
Coz i have 1000€ & I would like to buy your bag :)
But you dont give me your price :(
 
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@cavx
You have news about "Nike Bag Footwear" ?
Coz i have 1000€ & I would like to buy your bag :)
But you dont give me your price :(
I am working on the final design. Patients my good man.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
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Maybe I rushed this or maybe I need to bond the waffle to the profile before I thermo form it.

As you can see in this image, some of the waffle broke off during trimming.

12624eb38c787313735c00412140e3f9.jpg


2nd attempt came out much better but still not perfect. I think bonding the waffle flat is going to get the best results.
c282129ee6c43018f7a28f5b1c2a9890.jpg


So rather than hack up the 3rd piece of waffle, i thought I'd just use the scraps. I'll let this set up for a few days and see how it goes then.
The product used to fuse these together is Weldon #3 and it unfortunately attacks the surface destroying the glassy smooth finish of the Perspex. This means that the surface will transfer to the mold and therefore every cast part will have this clouded finish as well. Won't get to the Laser Cutter to at least Tuesday next week.
410940422ffb42bd9058645982ee67f6.jpg
 
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Maybe I rushed this or maybe I need to bond the waffle to the profile before I thermo form it.
As you can see in this image, some of the waffle broke off during trimming.
2nd attempt came out much better but still not perfect. I think bonding the waffle flat is going to get the best results.
So rather than hack up the 3rd piece of waffle, i thought I'd just use the scraps. I'll let this set up for a few days and see how it goes then.
The product used to fuse these together is Weldon #3 and it unfortunately attacks the surface destroying the glassy smooth finish of the Perspex. This means that the surface will transfer to the mold and therefore every cast part will have this clouded finish as well. Won't get to the Laser Cutter to at least Tuesday next week.

If it would make life easier I could post you my removed soles for US 10 size.
The pyramid mat's a little worn down (though probably not as much as yours) but you might get a better impression at least for the side pieces.
 
If it would make life easier I could post you my removed soles for US 10 size.
The pyramid mat's a little worn down (though probably not as much as yours) but you might get a better impression at least for the side pieces.

Offer accepted and you can have a free cast for doing this.

As for the pyramid, I have a brand new sheet of mat so can replace the tread.
 

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