Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

So...
Surgery was a success.
I decided to add a charging board since old one's port broke beyond repair.
the upgrade now has micro usb connection, hence how I managed to hook up these awesome cables bought thru ebay.
the cables have leds that "flow" current into Mags and when charge is complete, the lights shut off.
cool way to finally know when your shoes are completely charged.
the red light is from board, not from the cables themselves.
Job is not complete, i still have to do the other shoe.


and this is the board:


20170401_154939.jpg


TP4056 Charging Board Charger Module


here is where i got it from in case anyone wants it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-5V-1A-Micro-USB-18650-Lithium-Battery-TP4056-Charging-Board-Charger-Module-/191850083395?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=zkK2sa


just keep in mind the existing board is still needed, this board is used to bypass the charging process done via the existing charge port

i may do a tutorial or document the whole process later on but for now im just happy the shoe works again.

20170401_154939.jpg
 
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That is WAY cool!!!

Where did the leads come from?

So instead of a small opening at the base of the buckle, what will you have?
 
That is WAY cool!!!

Where did the leads come from?

So instead of a small opening at the base of the buckle, what will you have?

its a micro usb connection like the android phones samsung phones, newer ones
its really small to be honest;
it should fit fine next to the existing port

as
far as for the leads
if you mean how i did the wiring
i checked street veterans youtube video where he is selling all the electronics, and from there you can see what wire does what,
so the first wires do the battery
thanks @streetveterans
if it wasnt for this video i dont know what i would have done lol


its as simple as cutting the cables from the battery to the existing board behind the cup, and connecting the battery to b+ and b- and the other wires to out + and out-

ill do another post later on more detailed and also for other stuff ill be doing
like trying to connect the ankle bubble leds to the red light in the new board to force the shoes to show that they are charging by the ankle bubbles
but with this new cable, it doesnt need it
so idk if ill do that or not
doesnt hurt to test though.
 
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I just picked up this "Salon Care Creme" from store as people have had luck with it to lighten soles. My soles desperately need it as they are very yellow on the bottom. I will let you guys know how it works. I tried it today but there was no sun and I started too late. IMG_3586.JPGIMG_3589.JPGIMG_3587.JPG
 

I have placed a copy of this video in post #2.

I just picked up this "Salon Care Creme" from store as people have had luck with it to lighten soles. My soles desperately need it as they are very yellow on the bottom. I will let you guys know how it works. I tried it today but there was no sun and I started too late.

Rather than leave your shoes in the sun, I would suggest that you track down a UV light (black light) from an electronics store and that way you control which part gets hit with the UV rather than just baking the whole shoe in the sun. Leaving them in the sun means that whist you are fixing the soles, you are damaging the rest of the shoe.
 
For those of you who wear your shoes, how is the tread parts holding up?

e0dcf65024b1b454ded27ac5dcabe459.jpg


Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
For those of you who wear your shoes, how is the tread parts holding up?
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Mine are wearing away a little, in a similar pattern, mostly heel and forefoot. Usually I'm just walking around shopping centres with the GF, and those floors won't wear them down much at all. I'm thinking the rubber is in between the strength of the V1 and V2. The V2 rubber seemed stronger.
 
Mine are wearing away a little, in a similar pattern, mostly heel and forefoot. Usually I'm just walking around shopping centres with the GF, and those floors won't wear them down much at all. I'm thinking the rubber is in between the strength of the V1 and V2. The V2 rubber seemed stronger.

I think the rubber is the same shore, but the different shaped tread makes a difference here. The V2 is honeycomb and V3 is pyramids. So the rubber in contact with the floor of the V2 was small strips in the shape of squares Vs the tips of pyramids. The tips would wear faster than the ridges, but I think the pyramids have better grip.
 
I ordered my pair of V3's Friday 3/31 afternoon. I paid by Western Union to the person named, and to the city, state, and country named in the Instructions. I received an email Friday night saying that they needed the Western Union reference number. So I forwarded them the number, and haven't heard from them since. I have 2-3 messages into them since, but no reply. Any suggestions?
 
For those of you who wear your shoes, how is the tread parts holding up?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Mine is doing fine but I don't think I wear them that much. Yours look just like how the authentic Mags look after being worn.
 
I ordered my pair of V3's Friday 3/31 afternoon. I paid by Western Union to the person named, and to the city, state, and country named in the Instructions. I received an email Friday night saying that they needed the Western Union reference number. So I forwarded them the number, and haven't heard from them since. I have 2-3 messages into them since, but no reply. Any suggestions?

Questions:

1. So you ordered through www.sneakahead.ru ?

2. The payee name should have been either Martha or Rebecca?

3. Did they asked for first and last name, city or province and country (China)?

4. Did you provide them with a mobile (cell) phone number?

5. Did WU give you the MTCN with 10 digits?

Just remember that this 3 days is also "3 working days", so in your case, you have Saturday and Sunday in the mix. You may not hear back until Wednesday the 5th.

When I bought my shoes, there was as at least 3 days between paying the WU (I got a text to my mobile within 2 hours to say that the payee had collected the money) and hearing heard back from sneakerahead with QC photos.

I have explained why there is this time delay in the past and I might have to add this into the first post. The reason is, they don't have these shoes in stock. They have to travel to the factories and buy the shoes with the money you sent.

And when people reject shoes, this just backs up the drain further.

You are better off negotiating a lower cost for the shoes. They are Chinese and all Asians love to barter, so make them a low offer and see what they come back with. The trick here is to have a price in mind and keep aiming lower until they agree to meet you at the price you want. Can take several emails but you play the game right, you get a deal and can then either have the refund returned to you or use that to buy other things.
 
Mine is doing fine but I don't think I wear them that much. Yours look just like how the authentic Mags look after being worn.

These are showing very similar wear to my clears I made for the V2s. I am therefore going to suggest that these have the same shore (A65) as the clear polyurethane I used.
 
These are showing very similar wear to my clears I made for the V2s. I am therefore going to suggest that these have the same shore (A65) as the clear polyurethane I used.
possibly but I wonder why yours tore all the time?
 
Jedifyfe said:
possibly but I wonder why yours tore all the time?

There is a difference between the flexibility of the polyurethane I used compared to the shoe rubber used on the V2s. I found the same rubber used on the V2, but like the V2 soles, it was already yellowish and would only yellow further once exposed to UV. The difference however was that you can fold it well past 90 degrees without splitting or tearing. Also, even though I bought UV stabilizer, you can not add that to this product.

I was after clear soles that were UV stable and why I used the products I did. I was also learning (and still am learning) about this stuff.

I think for a flat sole, the polyurethane works, but the issues arise once you combine vertical parts and parts with different thicknesses, like the smaller inner wings or tails of the outer wings. I have made master parts to be molded and cast in the final shape, but as the V2s are now redundant, there is no real point in continuing with that work.

I have V3 master parts made up and now need to mold them. I want to see if it is possible to cast them as a single part but in a completely different mold design to that of my original V2 soles. This new way should give 100% bubble free parts, but will take upto 3 days to complete a pair of soles. If this works, then totally worth making 2 or even 3 molds.
 
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I have a con in a few weeks that I'll be wearing mine at. Carry them there, put them on, walk around nervously hoping the wires don't break, take them off and go home. God I hope the wires don't break lol
 
There is a differece between the flexibility of the polyurethane compared to the shoe rubber. I found the same rubber used, but like the V2 soles, it was already yellowish. The difference however was that you can fold it well past 90 degrees without splitting.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
have a chat with WizardBTTF his clear soles are super flexible just now as a (careful) test i rolled the undersole up into a cylinder. One of these days I'll put them onto a pair
 
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In case anyone was wondering how that fabric protection spray worked out, here is the first water test.


This stuff is WAY BETTER than Never-Wet. There is no oily or waxy residue and as you can see from the video, the water pretty much runs off the fabric and the few small beads that remain blow off or can be wiped off and the fabric seems to remain dry. I also did not get any yellowing on the elastic laces like I read that AirMagMan did when he used CREP.
 
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1. So you ordered through www.sneakahead.ru ?
Yes I ordered through Sneakerahead, I have an order #, but still says pending on the website
2. The payee name should have been either Martha or Rebecca?
It said their WU account was Xing Wu, in Guangze, Fujian, China.
3. Did they asked for first and last name, city or province and country (China)?
Yes, Xing Wu in Guangze, Fujian, China.
4. Did you provide them with a mobile (cell) phone number?
I did on the WU forms, yes.
5. Did WU give you the MTCN with 10 digits?
Yes, after I sent payment last Friday, I got an email from a Andy from David Jones email that night asking for the 10 digit code, so I sent it. That's the last I heard from them.
 
have a chat with @BTTFWizard his clear soles are super flexible just now as a (careful) test i rolled the undersole up into a cylinder. One of these days I'll put them onto a pair

Interesting. How thick are they? I have found over the time I've been playing with this stuff and there is a certain thickness where this stuff is very flexible and can be folded. However there is also a point in which it just tears along the fold line.

Also remember, different suppliers of the different products. Not all polyurethanes and elastomers are the same. I have been using clear, flexible polyurethane. The last time I played with clear elastomer was from ERA back in 2012 which is a very different beast from the polyurethane I buy from my current supplier. The elastomer was tough stuff when cured, but really pedantic in regards to its requirements during mixing and pouring. Stuff like atmospheric pressure, humidity and ambient temperature all pay a part here. It also cost a far bit more for the same volume. At the time, I didn't have my vacuum chamber, and I was even told by the sales rep (who seemed to know his stuff) that the heat generated under vacuum was essential to successful exothermic reactive curing of the product. So I am going to have to R&D with that stuff again. I also need to buy (I have one in my basket on eBay) an 8 litre pressure pot that I can load up to at least 60 PSI for the curing of the parts. This removes the issues of atmospheric pressure and humidity. If I knew enough about it, the pressure pot could be placed on a low temp heating element to keep the temperature constant as well.

Also there is a post cure time that these soles need to go through. I've got front oval parts here that are coming up on 2 years old and they bend well past 90 degrees even at 5mm thickness.

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after I sent payment last Friday, I got an email from a Andy from David Jones email that night asking for the 10 digit code, so I sent it. That's the last I heard from them.

OK so given there is a weekend in there, you will have to wait a few days. I don't know if they even have access to the factories over the weekends.
 

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