Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

Does the hole you cut make the shoe wear differently? I mean you’re not sewing it back up when you’re done, so I wondered if it sags.


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No. What you are doing is cutting the cloth of the sole only. And you are not cutting the stitching. You want to cut (i drew with pen, line about 3/8" from the stitching. I then along that line. You are only cutting as deep as is needed to break through the cloth.

These shoes are constructed the same way as V1 where there is a cloth foot shape sewn to the base of the upper. This cloth is what helps hold the shoe in shape. You need to make a access flap that can close back up.

So I cut mine like a U shape but I started on the inner part and worked around the to the back of the heel. Once I had lifted the material and could see the wires, I then proceed to cut the rest of the cloth to make the U. You absolutely DO NOT want to cut a wire.

Once you lift the flap, you will see a black plastic or hard rubber part covering the battery. Take note of how it goes in.

I found the easiest way to disconnect the battery was to use long nose pliers to hold the connection on the shoe side and i could then pull the connector from the battery side. The first time is tight. After that, they seem to plug in and out without issue.

I will see if I can document this or maybe I did in the older thread.

Because I removed my batteries, I filled the battery cavity with EVA foam. When I get around to buying A15 shore silicone, I will use an AAA battery pack to make a little ribbed part that can go inside. Unlike EVA which compresses over time, silicone does not and A15 is close to what the gel soles of ASICS are. That combined with these new sock liners, and the MAGs feel good under foot.
 
cavx , you should edit the main post in this thread to change the price to $709 because they're no longer at $499.
 
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Is he flexible on the price at all? These shoes were launched at $629USD and he dropped the price to $499 to compete with another online store.

I don't know. I didn't ask him. I just was saving some money to buy them, and when I finally got it and went to the website to purchase them, they were $709. I don't think he'll drop the price +$200 from the listed price, even when the price was that in the past. Who knows?... but I don't think so...
 
I don't know. I didn't ask him. I just was saving some money to buy them, and when I finally got it and went to the website to purchase them, they were $709. I don't think he'll drop the price +$200 from the listed price, even when the price was that in the past. Who knows?... but I don't think so...
Well I've emailed them asking the question.

Finally had a sort of fine day today so I decided to make a mold of those new master parts.

I used tools to grind a lip into the back side of each rear part.

I then raised each part on about 10mm of clay, hollowed out the outer edge to the required depth and built my mold wall around that. Mixed up the last of my silicone and now waiting for it to cure.
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I don't know. I didn't ask him. I just was saving some money to buy them, and when I finally got it and went to the website to purchase them, they were $709. I don't think he'll drop the price +$200 from the listed price, even when the price was that in the past. Who knows?... but I don't think so...

If you don't care about the box or lights, you can get broken pairs pretty cheap off David.
 
I don't know. I didn't ask him. I just was saving some money to buy them, and when I finally got it and went to the website to purchase them, they were $709. I don't think he'll drop the price +$200 from the listed price, even when the price was that in the past. Who knows?... but I don't think so...

And you won't know unless you ask. What is the worst thing that can happen? He might say no, or he might actually drop the price.
 
https://solarbotics.com/product/gm2...7YgZQiVioVkfPFelw3KvA_XphNb9SKwXRoC57kQAvD_Bw
Just bought this. Hopefully it fits. It looks like it should work

Sheesh, 14mm? How large are the originals?

And it is not the motor, but the lack of stop and reverse in the circuits that run these.

Your shoes broke because because they needed to finish the close cycle before they could go into open cycle. Your foot prevented them from completing the operation and as a result, a system fail.
 
Sheesh, 14mm? How large are the originals?

And it is not the motor, but the lack of stop and reverse in the circuits that run these.

Your shoes broke because because they needed to finish the close cycle before they could go into open cycle. Your foot prevented them from completing the operation and as a result, a system fail.
I hate to disagree with you, but that's not it. The gears in the gearbox were cheep and stripped

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I hate to disagree with you, but that's not it. The gears in the gearbox were cheep and stripped

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Do they have a manual over ride like the real EARL from NIKE? No, they do not. The one button is pressed for both open and close.

The one thing I noticed with all of the videos on these was that the laces had to complete a cycle BEFORE they could reverse. It is no wonder the gears strippped. There are no limiters here.
 
Do they have a manual over ride like the real EARL from NIKE? No, they do not. The one button is pressed for both open and close.

The one thing I noticed with all of the videos on these was that the laces had to complete a cycle BEFORE they could reverse. It is no wonder the gears strippped. There are no limiters here.
It's controlled by 1 button, yes, but they don't need to do a full cycle to go in the opposite direction. If you hold the button for 1 second to tighten, and then press it again, it loosens. Here's a video of the gears when stripped. https://youtu.be/kyhtTwsIgSI

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Do they have a manual over ride like the real EARL from NIKE? No, they do not. The one button is pressed for both open and close.

The one thing I noticed with all of the videos on these was that the laces had to complete a cycle BEFORE they could reverse. It is no wonder the gears strippped. There are no limiters here.
https://youtu.be/by12kLaEhnk
Just took this one to explain what I meant. They do have a protection.. Thing on the side. My guess, the top part emits an IR beam, and the bottom plastic part picks it up though the cut in the laces. When the laces get tight to the point that the IR beam gets cut off by the tread, the bottom part tells the control board that the beam has been interpreted, and it stops tightening. Same thing for when it's loosening
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So are you saying Infra Red reads through that slot? Not the best idea, but OK. So how does it sense over load? Because it looks like a small pin that depresses when it reaches the end of the run. The question I have is, what if it can't reach the end of the run? What stops the cogs from wanting to turn when the belts (laces) can't move?
 
Question for you all...

Since it looks like I have no choice but to change out the battery on my right display shoe, I'm wondering... is there a solution for keeping a display pair lit without burning up the batteries?

Also... since I lost one shoe by not charging it for soon enough, how often do the batteries need topped off so they don't drain too low as to not be able to take a charge??
 
Question for you all...

Since it looks like I have no choice but to change out the battery on my right display shoe, I'm wondering... is there a solution for keeping a display pair lit without burning up the batteries?

If you take the batteries completely out, the charge cable can be left in and power the shoes. If you unplug them, you lose the lights.

Also... since I lost one shoe by not charging it for soon enough, how often do the batteries need topped off so they don't drain too low as to not be able to take a charge??

My left shoe of my display pair always seems to run too low before the right shoe. Lucky (touches wood) they take on charge as soon as they are plugged in.

Not that I want to open that pair, but I am curious about the batteries they used. In my now wear pair, one battery looks like it is a good quality with model number and other details on the foil. I think that it could take on charge even now if connected. The other battery had no markings on the foil and it was the one that died and ultimately popped.

- - - Updated - - -

So the plastic part strips of the actual gear?

I can't see the metal parts being stripped but I can see the teeth on the belt slipping if they get stuck or are pulled too tight - ie a foot inside the shoe that prevents the motors reaching their stop point.
 

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