Dann's Luke Skywalker ANH Stunt Macrobinoculars Build Thread
- Thread starter Dann
- Start date
bpatneaude
Active Member
Marvin3242
Member
Looks great!
A lot of my build pics got the photobucket shaft but the finished pics are still there. Unfortunatly a lot of the Starwars prop builds are still stuck in the Replica prop forum and didn't get moved so you will not find them searching the starwars forum. Obviously they are the other mamiya model and I didn't have the correct plate
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=129381&highlight=stunt+macros
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=129381&highlight=stunt+macros
Sorry Dann I don't want to hijack your thread, but I am curious about the progress of OdiWan72 folded metal transition box...
OdiWan72 I am in the process of putting together a Hero Macro and was looking for a folded metal transition box, I am interested in your progress of making a folded metal transition box for your build...
I am not building a transition box for the hero, but the STUNT macros.
Did not use folded metal for my hero box, but the top of a 6/60, which I clad with aluminum to get rid off the uneven surfaces and to create the front edge
Sorry man.
I'd love to see what you've got so far with your box. I have an idea of what it should look like, and I guess it'd be something like three parts. Two sides, and the top folded over those sides.
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Here you go...
The transition box will consist of three parts plus the added greeblie, that´s attached to side of the Mamiya lenseplate.
I will use 2mm sheet aluminum, so the final measurements need minor adjustments to take care of the material thickness.
I already had a transition box made by Zombie Killer a few years ago, but it was created to fit to the Yashica (?) lenseplate, which prooved to be in accurate for the stunt macros, so I have to make a new improved one.
What do you think?
The transition box will consist of three parts plus the added greeblie, that´s attached to side of the Mamiya lenseplate.
I will use 2mm sheet aluminum, so the final measurements need minor adjustments to take care of the material thickness.
I already had a transition box made by Zombie Killer a few years ago, but it was created to fit to the Yashica (?) lenseplate, which prooved to be in accurate for the stunt macros, so I have to make a new improved one.
What do you think?
Lichtbringer
Master Member
It all comes down to execution, but so far I like it.
That's pretty much exactly what I had in mind.
Nice job!
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Getting closer!
One of the biggest challenges is the mounting of the actual viewer to the box. I'm using four M2 screws at the moment, through the four rivet holes that go through the viewer and its frame. I altered the frame a bit as well, grinding down the taller sides. I'm really not sure what the prop guys did on the original, it could be exactly the same way, or not. I really wish I knew!
As for all the screws mounting the transistion box to the main body, they're all M3. Even the screws holding the little mystery box on are M3. I did just happen to have some "pretty close" fillister head slotted screws for the mystery box, but they were 12-24, so I just cut them shorter and they're really just decoration.
The Kalimar knobs on top of the hood need to be a tad closer together from what I can tell, and the whole transition box and mystery box will be taken back apart for the REAL sanding/filling/sanding/painting. The model itself may even still need some tweaking, but it's come a long way these past few days!
One of the biggest challenges is the mounting of the actual viewer to the box. I'm using four M2 screws at the moment, through the four rivet holes that go through the viewer and its frame. I altered the frame a bit as well, grinding down the taller sides. I'm really not sure what the prop guys did on the original, it could be exactly the same way, or not. I really wish I knew!
As for all the screws mounting the transistion box to the main body, they're all M3. Even the screws holding the little mystery box on are M3. I did just happen to have some "pretty close" fillister head slotted screws for the mystery box, but they were 12-24, so I just cut them shorter and they're really just decoration.
The Kalimar knobs on top of the hood need to be a tad closer together from what I can tell, and the whole transition box and mystery box will be taken back apart for the REAL sanding/filling/sanding/painting. The model itself may even still need some tweaking, but it's come a long way these past few days!
Last edited:
Not really. Well, maybe.
The parts can be a bit more difficult to find, and when you do, chances are they won't be cheap, and you still need a Kalimar 660, and the Seagull.
Fortunately I've had most of these parts for years.
And the hero version didn't HAVE to be as pricey as it is now, we can really only blame ourselves for that. In 2008 I paid $80 for one Six Sixty with the correct lens. That was the most expensive part for my hero build.
Actually, wait, I only had one real lens for my hero Macros for a long time. Years later I bought another real one from someone here, I don't think it was more than $150, so THAT was the most expensive part!
The parts can be a bit more difficult to find, and when you do, chances are they won't be cheap, and you still need a Kalimar 660, and the Seagull.
Fortunately I've had most of these parts for years.
And the hero version didn't HAVE to be as pricey as it is now, we can really only blame ourselves for that. In 2008 I paid $80 for one Six Sixty with the correct lens. That was the most expensive part for my hero build.
Actually, wait, I only had one real lens for my hero Macros for a long time. Years later I bought another real one from someone here, I don't think it was more than $150, so THAT was the most expensive part!
Similar threads
