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  1. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    New Zealand
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    157
    May 13, 2017, 2:32 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #51

    joberg said: View Post
    Looking very good...welding: TIG or MIG?
    Apotheosis said: View Post
    Nice clean cuts on the tube. How did you do it?
    Thanks.

    Notches on the tubs done by one of them Abrasive Tube Notcher. Done at engineering shop that builds motorcycle trikes locally.
    Straight cuts done by me with hack saw, files and bench belt sander with disc sander on it.

    Parts for the upper idle wheels.

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    How they go together.
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    Notched and shortened parts for the front wheel.
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    So far its going good.
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    Start on the sprocket hubs next.
    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 6:01 AM.
  2. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 15, 2017, 2:10 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #52

    Got the idle wheel parts sorted.
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    Made the hubs for the front sprockets.
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    Doing more on it tonight.
    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:56 AM.
  3. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 15, 2017, 2:17 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #53

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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:53 AM.
  4. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 24, 2017, 2:04 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #54

    Got the Drawing done for the Idle wheel jig. Drawing up the jig for the drive wheels now. Oh and these are going to be used as building / tack welding jigs to get every thing straight and all the same length. Will be laser cut and then slotted together and welded. I will add the files to the group when I have them completed.

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    Drawing of the parts for the upper idle wheel mount.
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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:49 AM.
  5. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 25, 2017, 2:32 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #55

    Got the hubs made for the idle wheel sprockets.
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    Lots of clearance.
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    Temporary jig to build the prototype drive system.
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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:47 AM.
  6. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 26, 2017, 12:57 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #56

    Installed grub screws in the hubs.
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    Jig worked out mint for the prototype system.
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    Got the front axle mount welded to the pipe also.
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    Test fit. Works good.

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    Now I have to start on the drive axle and motor mount then the tensioner.
    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:44 AM.
  7. joberg's Avatar
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    Sep 2013
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    May 26, 2017, 9:30 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #57

    All of it is looking mighty good from where I stand! Keep up the great work
  8. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 27, 2017, 7:58 PM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #58

    Was thinking about the drive last night. Why do you even need the shaft collars that are on the inside upto the bearing. Why not remove them and just install a steel/aluminum sleeve on the shaft in its space. The sprocket hubs are keyed and grub screwed in place on the axle to the width of the 2 attachment chains so if you made 2 sleeves the same size 1 on each side they would centre it all and make it a fixed width as they would be hard up to the centre of the bearing. Blue part is the sleeve in the drawing. What you think?

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    Last edited by Markwalle17; May 28, 2017 at 2:47 AM.
  9. Member Since
    Nov 2014
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    May 27, 2017, 10:49 PM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #59

    Would seem to make sense. How hard is it to undo later if you really do need it?
  10. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 28, 2017, 1:18 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #60

    Just had a look in my photos folder and Mike Senna didn't use any collars on the original track system. He had the wheel hubs mounted on the axles all the way up to the bearings. I'm guessing he used shaft collars on his new track system like I'm building because he didn't have a lathe and was easier for him.
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    I was thinking why not just make the blue part (The steel sleeve) Make it part of the hub that way there is 1 less part to worry about.
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    Orange = Key, Pink = sprocket hub, grey = axle, green = bearing, black is the idle wheel arm/bearing holder. Hub is also grub screwed 1 onto the key and one 90 degrees from the key.
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    Doing it this way would be a matter of undoing 2 grub screws on the hub that has the sprocket on it to remove it from the axle and then the axle would come out the other side of the bearings with the other hub/sprocket still attached. Would need to remove the tracks 1st but thats just a matter of removing 2 chain connecting links.

    If I used shaft collars I will have to remove the hub 1st then the shaft collar too remove the axle out the other side.
    Last edited by Markwalle17; May 28, 2017 at 2:47 AM.
  11. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 28, 2017, 2:40 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #61

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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:16 AM.
  12. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 28, 2017, 4:15 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #62

    What I have come up with. 4 parts less and easier to take apart. 2 grub screws to loosen and then one of the hubs/sprockets can be removed then remove the key and slide the axle out the other side of bearings with the other hub/sprocket attached on axle with its key in place.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  13. joberg's Avatar
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    May 29, 2017, 12:13 PM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #63

    It makes sense; I mean, you're not building the next armored vehicle that we'll see some major battles or something. That configuration will be fine.
  14. Member Since
    Nov 2014
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    May 30, 2017, 2:40 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #64

    Gyeah like Joubert said, I'm assuming the sprockets and axel are hardened enough that it won't wear the key channel out eventually.
  15. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 30, 2017, 5:03 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #65

    Shaft is: http://www.rollerchain4less.com/12-D...ft_p_1336.html
    Sprocket is: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-T...-1-1981-12.axd
    Hub that the sprocket attaches to and goes onto the shaft is Steel.

    Its just for the idle wheels at the top on the track drive.
  16. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    May 31, 2017, 7:44 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #66

    #35 sprockets and chain.
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    Parts for the eyes after some machine work.

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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:35 AM.
  17. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    Jun 1, 2017, 4:10 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #67

    Started a Blog over here.

    http://markswalle.blogspot.co.nz/

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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 4, 2017 at 3:53 AM.
  18. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    Jun 4, 2017, 9:05 PM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #68

    How the adjuster will be made for tensioning the track. The 50x25x2.5 RHS will have a plate welded on the end of it with a hole in the centre for the threaded rod to go through and into the 20x20x1.6 SHS. A nut will be also welded to the plate on the end of the 50x25x2.5 RHS.

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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:14 AM.
  19. Member Since
    Nov 2014
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    Jun 5, 2017, 5:07 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #69

    Looking good, I noticed on your blog you live in the same city as me. Good to see some local talent building on here.
  20. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    Jun 7, 2017, 6:48 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #70

    Apotheosis said: View Post
    Looking good, I noticed on your blog you live in the same city as me. Good to see some local talent building on here.
    Thanks dude.
  21. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    Jun 10, 2017, 3:33 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #71

    Got the drive hubs made today. Still need to install a set screw in them.

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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 4, 2017 at 3:53 AM.
  22. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    Jun 11, 2017, 1:52 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #72

    Set screws installed.
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    I think I may have made to many. Still need to make more of the front mount mount notched tube and notch the ends of the idle arm tubes for the bearing mount.
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    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:10 AM.
  23. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    Jun 23, 2017, 11:20 PM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #73

    Made a set of bars to the right length for the axles.

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    Getting there.
    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:08 AM.
  24. joberg's Avatar
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    Jun 24, 2017, 9:37 AM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #74

    Keep up the great work!
  25. Markwalle17's Avatar
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    Jun 24, 2017, 7:28 PM - Re: My Wall-E Build Log #75

    20 tooth sprocket is 784g before I lighten it.
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    28 tooth sprocket is 1.778kg before I lighten it.
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    Started drawing up the parts in 3D. Its my 1st time using the 3D side of my CAD software. I have have to watch a couple of videos on how to do things.

    Bearing housing.
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    Front sprocket hub.
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    Idle sprocket hub.
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    Tread plate.
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    Rubber tread.
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    Still need to draw up the drive sprocket hub and then I will start on the idle arm.
    Last edited by Markwalle17; Jul 3, 2017 at 5:04 AM.

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