Another Ding-Dang PKD
- Thread starter veektohr
- Start date
veektohr
Sr Member
Like most of the scary bits so far, I just kinda dove in.
It's actually not a complex bend on the bolt lever. I compared it to a Tomenosuke and Coyle levers I have, and fired up the torch. Make sure you're not accidentally bending on another axis as well like I did the first time! Took a lot of noodling around later to address some axial twist which was a pain. Should have just paid more attention the first time (words to put on my tombstone).
Just call me McDonald's because "I'm lovin' it". :thumbsup
So nice to see this one moving along! Looking epic so far.
veektohr
Sr Member
Learned a lot of hard lessons about working with stainless steel this weekend. The first usable barrel I turned was .1" too short [emoji24]. I had enough stock left to make one more, though. I think I'm going to use the shorty as my guinea pig for threading & drilling for mating to the upper receiver. The other one is about .3" too long so I have plenty of room to adjust the shoulder after the threads are cut. Lots of work left, but progress is still being made.
I also got some grub screws in the receiver
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I get giddy every time I see an update to this build pop up in my feed!
So what kind of lathe are you turning the barrel(s) on, and how do you know what threading you need?
Also, do you think you'll have to drill the holes in the barrel for the Steyr mounting points after you've attached the barrel to the Bulldog receiver? Didn't Eltee say you had to have the barrel torqued on a certain amount? Seems like it would be impossible to know where a particular point on the outside of the barrel would land if the mark you're trying to hit is one of force and not position...
So what kind of lathe are you turning the barrel(s) on, and how do you know what threading you need?
Also, do you think you'll have to drill the holes in the barrel for the Steyr mounting points after you've attached the barrel to the Bulldog receiver? Didn't Eltee say you had to have the barrel torqued on a certain amount? Seems like it would be impossible to know where a particular point on the outside of the barrel would land if the mark you're trying to hit is one of force and not position...
veektohr
Sr Member
I'm using a Kent 1440. I used a thread gauge and some calipers for determining the threading. I popped those into in internet, and it turns out .578 x 28 is a common barrel threading for .45 cal, so it makes sense that they'd use it for a .44 as well. I bought a nut with that threading to check the stock barrel, and sure enough it fits perfect.
As for fitting a barrel... jeez it's not easy. Well, I'm sure for a professional gunsmith it is, but as a hobbyist there's a learning curve for sure. First you need to make sure you're centered off the bore of the barrel blank, otherwise it won't align with the cylinder. Then you need to adjust your cylinder gap (space between protruding barrel and the cylinder) or you'll be spitting lead out the sides. Then you need to cut your forcing cone... it's so much work. I predict that I will end up having to make at least one more before I get something that checks out 100% : /
I'll definitely mark the places to drill after I've fitted the top receiver and stuff. I'f I drilled them now, I'd have to be super exact with the length of the shoulder (unthreaded area where the barrel mates flush with the bulldog) so that the timing of those lined up correctly.
There's still so much work to do : /
Sometimes I want to just toss out the live-fire aspect, because then I wouldn't have to be so worried about all these pesky clearances :wacko:angry
As for fitting a barrel... jeez it's not easy. Well, I'm sure for a professional gunsmith it is, but as a hobbyist there's a learning curve for sure. First you need to make sure you're centered off the bore of the barrel blank, otherwise it won't align with the cylinder. Then you need to adjust your cylinder gap (space between protruding barrel and the cylinder) or you'll be spitting lead out the sides. Then you need to cut your forcing cone... it's so much work. I predict that I will end up having to make at least one more before I get something that checks out 100% : /
I'll definitely mark the places to drill after I've fitted the top receiver and stuff. I'f I drilled them now, I'd have to be super exact with the length of the shoulder (unthreaded area where the barrel mates flush with the bulldog) so that the timing of those lined up correctly.
There's still so much work to do : /
Sometimes I want to just toss out the live-fire aspect, because then I wouldn't have to be so worried about all these pesky clearances :wacko:angry
Of that I have no doubt. Just keep thinking of how badass it will be when you actually pull it off, and the skills you will have learned in the process!
And if all else fails, do like I do and watch this regularly to keep yourself excited: https://youtu.be/_6vJK3Hh-1s?t=23s
veektohr
Sr Member
veektohr
Sr Member
Took a whack at the trigger guard in my vice with some 1/2" x 1/4" cold rolled, a couple hand files, and a lot of sand paper. Woof.
Here's my high-tech bending jig.
I kept checking against this tomen TG, just working it across the pivot points on my jig.
Hardest part was getting that sharp 90 degree bend that mounts against the Bulldog's grip frame. A little perseverance, though, and bob's yer uncle.
There's still some final fitting left to do, but it's pretty much done!
Here's my high-tech bending jig.
I kept checking against this tomen TG, just working it across the pivot points on my jig.
Hardest part was getting that sharp 90 degree bend that mounts against the Bulldog's grip frame. A little perseverance, though, and bob's yer uncle.
There's still some final fitting left to do, but it's pretty much done!
Just come across your build, so awesome. Definitely want to build one, even if it's just a tomen kit.
