Romans graflex group ideas

I posted in the TFA Graflex Research thread but don't want to keep bumping that with a replica build, so here is where I am at so far..

First of all, if it even needs to be said.. Roman's work on these is superb. Honestly, I wouldn't feel comfortable doing a TFA version with a vintage Graflex.. I just wouldn't. This is the next best thing, and I mean the very next. So glad I picked one up.. hopefully I'll snatch up another one down the road.
As for the saber, I already filed down the knurling on the glass eye, using the dremel method posted in the research thread. Worked great! The lines were a little uneven so it took a good bit of filing but I am super happy with the look. I also used a metalizer to change the bulb pin to a brass color, and then gave the top half an ammonia bath to get the pins looking a little less shiny.

I had an old pair of 3D glasses, the old red and blue acetate kind, so I cut a few circles out and placed them behind the glass eye. When the light is off, you can't tell anything is in there at all, but when it's on it adds a nice little touch of blue. :)

The grips are from the custom saber shop, and will likely be replaced when I get my kit from Roy. No templates, no measuring.. just eyeballed and placed them on. Blasphemy to some, but I doubt they were anywhere near as exacting as some of us folks on this board. I've seen Propshops work on 7.. believe me, they aren't measuring anything. ;) I cut down the screws and glued them in place, and I went with screws just because I think they look better. I really can't stand the look of the pop rivets in the grip, but that's just my personal taste.

The rest of the stuff to finish the saber will be coming in from Roy sometime in the next two weeks! I'll be honest, I haven't been able to put this thing down since I got it!

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As for Roman's Graflex itself, the top and the bottom are a match, or atleast close enough that I can't really tell a difference. There is that weird texture on the top of the clamps but two seconds with scotchbrite would help, and in my case it will be covered anyways. I know a lot came with a super shiny bottom but mine didn't. Not sure if Roman hit it with scotchbrite himself, or what happened, but it came perfect. I saw some bunny ears were bent a bit further apart than I would have liked, but mine came with perfectly thin and parallel spacing. Red button took some force like others, but it came off easy enough with some convincing. The bunny ear screw I'm not bothered by enough to fix, and that's about it.

Over-all, those are all my nitpicks, and most, if not all were already fixed or easily fixable. I am 110% happy with my order and the Graflex I received.
 
I should really know this by now...


I'm still confused about the clamp placement on these. Sometimes the bunny ears point left, sometimes right (if clamp is facing up).

What is this? Are different versions facing different directions?

My Roman is opposite of my original.

I'm a nazi about clamp placement and I always correct someone on the forums and facebook pages about it so I'll answer.

The ANH saber has clamp placed on the right side (when looking at the flash with the glass eye facing you).

The ESB and FA sabers have the clamp on the left side.

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I'm thinking of selling my master replicas sabers for Romans graflexs, but I'm not understanding some things. Are parts of them too shiny? And he offers conversion kits, but everyone seems to use Roy's, are they better made or more accurate? I'm taking my first step into a larger world here and can use some help, thanks!
 
I'm thinking of selling my master replicas sabers for Romans graflexs, but I'm not understanding some things. Are parts of them too shiny? And he offers conversion kits, but everyone seems to use Roy's, are they better made or more accurate? I'm taking my first step into a larger world here and can use some help, thanks!

Roman's graflex is an excellent base for a replica. If you have any issues with the finish, they are easy to take care of. Roy's kits are considered better, but the Roman's grips require less prep-work(if that isn't your forte). Most of Roy's parts ARE more accurate(clamp card, Kobold, grips) and he offers parts you will need(clamp cover, bottom cover, belt holder).

Edit: Does anyone know what kind of bulb I need for the glass eye? Mine just fell off my balcony. I am thinking of getting an LED replacement.
 
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What's the best way to protect the metal from rust? I got my hilts the other week and went on a trip for 5 days and came back to some of the clamp and slide switch rusted. I don't have sweaty hands and I wiped them down with my shirt after handling them. These are my first hilts so yeah...

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Could also use some advice for my inception if that's allowed on this thread

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I decided that I'm going to go the rivet route with the grips however I'm nervous the rivet will crack the grips. Does anyone have experience with this?
 
What's the best way to protect the metal from rust? I got my hilts the other week and went on a trip for 5 days and came back to some of the clamp and slide switch rusted. I don't have sweaty hands and I wiped them down with my shirt after handling them. These are my first hilts so yeah...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/5ab60d41ce93be4868b2b43e1aa7f357.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/d163625c00dde42be516b40d8efa8dbd.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/67e217e5c80e7adc40ebd306ece95d0c.jpg

Could also use some advice for my inception if that's allowed on this thread

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/994b207cd9d7c1b2f010a40dbc0f7005.jpg

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Light coating of oil. Lots of oils to choose from.

I like WD-40. Spray on rag and gently whipe down.
 
Thank you Danny!

I still haven't put this thing down. Slept with it on my bedside table as I usually do with newer pieces. Just can't wait for the stuff to arrive from Roy!

I'm glad that I'm not the only one compelled to admire my newest creations/acquisitions even whilst sleeping hahaha. The mattress on my bed is blown out and hurting my back, so while I've been waiting on a new matress, I've been sleeping on the couch in the living room/mancave surrounded by all of my sabers and everything. Every night is like the ultimate sleepover in the ultimate clubhouse. It's awesome!

I eyeballed the grips on my 2 replicas, too, you know, in keeping with the spirit of how the actual prop makers did things. Well, I used the 7 holed end of my Graflex 2.0 as a rough guide to line up the grips on my ANH saber (6 grips are much easier to orient symmetrically without help).
 
Roman let me know today that the metal underneath the silver plate on the bunny ears is copper or brass. Filing or sanding will reveal the different color. Probably not recommended unless you like that sort of thing.
 
It would be possible to grind them down and then just paint over that area with Alclad or Molotow Liquid Chrome. The durability would be a concern with paint, as well as them aging in a dissimilar fashion.

To be honest, I think you'd be better off just replacing them if you're that bothered by the length.
 
It would be possible to grind them down and then just paint over that area with Alclad or Molotow Liquid Chrome. The durability would be a concern with paint, as well as them aging in a dissimilar fashion.

To be honest, I think you'd be better off just replacing them if you're that bothered by the length.


Agreed. I don't intend to modify the length. And Rub'n Buff should take care of the base metal showing through on my ears after I tried to sand out a small imperfection. Damn early morning OCD.
 
There is that weird texture on the top of the clamps but two seconds with scotchbrite would help.

I would follow up my comment about the bunny ears by saying that even the clamp will reveal different colors of metal if sanded. I had read about using Scotch-Brite to remove the texture issue, but by the time the texture was removed the nickel finish was also gone and a brighter slightly different colored metal was revealed. I have found that nickel finish to be easy to remove, so be careful whereever you touch the finish of any of the parts.

Does anyone know where to buy a nickel finish clamp? I wish Roman would sell clamps with that finish. ;)
 
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Mine had an imperfection on the ears however I went with it and used it as an added bonus for weathering purposes. Made the ANH version.

Thanks Roman, also thanks Roy wannawanga.com for the completion kit.

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I used a green scotchbrite and lightly went over the affected areas to even them out. If you're pressing hard enough to go through, of course you will.. but light pressure is no problem. You should by no means be "sanding" it if that makes sense.

It's the same thing people had to do to the bottom of their flashes to dull it down and I haven't heard of anyone going through there.


I would follow up my comment about the bunny ears by saying that even the clamp will reveal different colors of metal if sanded. I had read about using Scotch-Brite to remove the texture issue, but by the time the texture was removed the nickel finish was also gone and a brighter slightly different colored metal was revealed. I have found that nickel finish to be easy to remove, so be careful whereever you touch the finish of any of the parts.

Does anyone know where to buy a nickel finish clamp? I wish Roman would sell clamps with that finish. ;)
 
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