Evolution of the War-Machine

Well we're hopin for the best for mom.
Working to have a video up by Saturday the latest. Thanks for your patience with this guy's. Working on getting a lathe still...GMurdoch
 
Good thoughts going out to you and yours bud! :)

Re: drill press

* The main issue with using a drill press as a mill.. is that the spindle on the drill press is not made for side torque. My suggestion is to take VERY VERY shallow cuts. (tramming/leveling the thing with the vise/milling attachment will be step 1!)

* As far as a lathe goes.. I would suggest staying away from the 7x lathes.. they are pretty dang small once you start working on things. Of course this goes along with how much space you have.

I am by no means a pro/machinist..

but I got an 8x14 lathe (from HF).. its the same exact lathe that Lathemaster sells (theirs is green/blue)..
its much beefier than the 7x machines.. but still find myself wishing I had the next size up.

* keep in mind you'll probably spend at least what the lathe cost you on tooling!.. s start saving!) :)

My lathe currently has a price of $999 on it.. however few years back..
I actually got it on sale at my local HF (an on-line friend dropped me a line to save it was on sale.. but not listed/advertised, only when you asked what the price was)
It was only sale for like $449 or something.. (and I used a 20% coupon on it!) All in all.. it was like $379 out the door@! (was a HUGE DEAL for me)

Maybe the same deal can be found again?

Most of these hobby lathes are all chinese imports.. they will need some time to clean up the grease and tighten/align things..

The machines from LMS (where I got my mill from) are nice solid machines.. usually of better quality and some nice little extras... but you pay for this as well.

For a lathe... keep in mind you will need things like:

steady/follow rests
quick change tool posts
tail stock/drill chucks
tons of different tools/bits
jabber bits
boring bars
maybe a DRO or scales.. (not needed but nice to have)
etc..etc..

and the more you learn... the more you'll need! HAHA..

Definitely a fun hobby and a skill set worth learning. (even if its just for hobby use)

If you got questions.. post! We'll answer! :)


Re; Unimat
check the bed/ways to see if there is any wear/tear on them.
does it come with any tooling? (get a list)
what year?
what size? 7x... 10? 12? 14?

Too bad Toronot is on the East cost.. (Mid West here).. otherwise you could buy one here.. and meet up to take ownership!
 
Did a video last night for HGR Industrial, explaining my build.
More difficult than I imagined as I would have liked to have all my tools in one space. Sadly space is a problem for me. Tools at home, at work, in the car ect. Not to mention an excited 5 month old pup trying to make his debut lol. A lot of editing I'm sure, but hopefully it will be up by the weekend...GMurdoch
 
How much experience do you have working with titanium? I've been doing it for 20 years and the thought of working out a full suit scares me a bit but I don't want to discourage you at all. I'll even send you some scraps to play with and answer any questions you have. I'd love to see this happen for real.
 
Wronghands said:
How much experience do you have working with titanium? I've been doing it for 20 years and the thought of working out a full suit scares me a bit but I don't want to discourage you at all. I'll even send you some scraps to play with and answer any questions you have. I'd love to see this happen for real.
Click to expand...
Well to be perfectly honest, I don't have any experience with titanium. Except if you enclude several high end bikes I've owned over the years lol. Seriously though I actually have a jewelry background and would appreciate any scraps and advice. I'd like to use the titanium for accent pieces rather than full scale armor as titanium is expensive and I can't afford that. But yes if I could, absolutely I would. Thanks very much for the offer...GMurdoch
Are you in Canada, Ontario specifically? I'd love some scraps, feel free to pm me to work out the details...
 
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Cool, I have a jewelry background too but it's mostly with titanium, Timascus and stainless damascus blade materials. Harder to work with and not solderable so you have to be creative with cold connections. If you plan to cold forge ti then best to stick with pure grades or grade 9 which is soft enough to be formed into tubes. You can get the pure grade to forge down pretty far before it'll need annealing without cracking and it gets incredibly strong. Looking at those complex under suit and vertebrae parts, I think 3D printing sintered ti powder would be your best bet. The stuff I have is all grade 5 and grade 38 which will drive you insane trying to machine without a very rigid mill and lathe setup.

Accent pieces are fine but I think the next step up from the aluminum and steel suits would be to fabricate the entire shell from pure ti sheet. Welds will be tricky but it is the easiest grade to weld and you can find guys who weld titanium exhausts easily enough. Just using a few titanium accent pieces doesn't really seem worth the effort of dealing with such a difficult and expensive material. Aluminum is going to save you a lot more weight over steel and the forming and welding will be easy.
 
Wronghands said:
Cool, I have a jewelry background too but it's mostly with titanium, Timascus and stainless damascus blade materials. Harder to work with and not solderable so you have to be creative with cold connections. If you plan to cold forge ti then best to stick with pure grades or grade 9 which is soft enough to be formed into tubes. You can get the pure grade to forge down pretty far before it'll need annealing without cracking and it gets incredibly strong. Looking at those complex under suit and vertebrae parts, I think 3D printing sintered ti powder would be your best bet. The stuff I have is all grade 5 and grade 38 which will drive you insane trying to machine without a very rigid mill and lathe setup.

Accent pieces are fine but I think the next step up from the aluminum and steel suits would be to fabricate the entire shell from pure ti sheet. Welds will be tricky but it is the easiest grade to weld and you can find guys who weld titanium exhausts easily enough. Just using a few titanium accent pieces doesn't really seem worth the effort of dealing with such a difficult and expensive material. Aluminum is going to save you a lot more weight over steel and the forming and welding will be easy.
Click to expand...

The shop I had worked in did custom platinum pieces.
An all TI armor would be amazing if the money was there. However I already have some TI plate that I will be using towards this. You definitely have an edge over me, it sounds like in the fabrication side of things. But I have always had a habit of taking on a project that realistically I should've walked away from lol.

Back in the day I had an outside jeweller commissioned me to fabricate a link in custom hardwood. I made 3 using a hammer drill and a ******* file, a perfect match I might add...GMurdoch
 
Did a video today introducing the build. I sound like an ass, as I lost a couple of bottom chicklets in an accident at work. So I'm going to sound like Sidney the sloth from Ice age lol. It's going to be a few days before it's up but I will post once it's available...GMurdoch
 
Don't worry,GM.Some of us (like yours truly) have already been busy for years trying to complete their first build :lol
I hope you didn't hurt yourself in the accident
 
So it would appear that having to depend on someone, isn't all that is cracked up to be. Made a video 3 weeks ago and was told a couple of days for editing, that was 3 weeks soon to be 4.

On another note I called a guy about a space to rent. Hopefully it's a go.

Over the last few days I have mowed over the idea of proportion of my armor. In respects to the length of my legs to be specific. I do not have long legs so I figured that a finished product would result in my armor being disproportionate. To rectify this I thought of a small stilt, now most cosplay stilts I see are refered to as ware wolf stilts. Then there is drywall stilts and also jumping stilts. I've decided to wing it and make my own combining all the tech. My goal is to create a stilt that will be hidden in the boot design. I was going to go with aluminum for these but I decided to go with steel. I ordered the steel and it should be delivered to work this week. I get to break in my welders helmet lol. I will post pics...GMurdoch
 

Apologies for my silence. Lots of work lately, but this Friday I am picking up some supplies for my digilegs which I will redesign to my mech/exoskeletal legs. The pic is a tutorial I found online from instructables, a great read by the way. I am putting a twist to this build via MECH inspired. Hope to show something started very soon...GMurdoch
 
...Just came across this thread.

I think you're overthinking the Spine. Occams Razor.

Just use U-Joints. 1 connected to the next, until you make up the space from the Tailbone, up to the Skull.
It will bend in any direction your Spine can.

17mm-54-x-1-dd-chrome-moly-racing-double-u-joint-fr2809.jpg
 
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