Tips for kitbashing?

An oft-overlooked essential in kitbashing is repetition; after all, the technique is an emulation of real-world industrial technology which often feature repeating patterns, shapes and components.

If you study the original masters of kitbashing at ILM, you'll notice that many parts are repeated and featured across different builds (for instance the Sherman tank suspension, and the Ford Cosworth transmission)

As already mentioned a great place to start is thrown-out electronics, particularly printers, keyboards, CD drives or devices with not only moving parts, but components that are identical and bountiful....kitbashing is quite an art form to perfect, I'm certainly still learning but I hope this can be of some help at least!

Will
 
That's one of my old spaceships, made in the 90's and its made from an assortment of "found" objects, detailed with model kit parts and styrene sheet of various thicknesses.



thank you so much for replying! i really like your stuff! And sorry it took me so long to respond, kind of put this on hold for finals.

That being said, i finished my first model (minus the paint job that is)

so, here it is lol

aHSzsDB.jpg

and here is the full album:

http://imgur.com/a/uxtEr

I decided to only use stuff that i already had (for the most part) that way i wouldn't end up wasting money on model kits and styrene for a shoddy first attempt. Because of that limitation, its made almost entirely out of toys and trash (and some PVC pieces)

So with that being considered, i am actually quite happy with how it turned out. Once you get up close you can tell that there isnt a lot of detail since i didnt have much to work with, but i think it looks pretty good from a distance (again, for a first attempt haha)

The main body of the "head" was made out of two speakers, specifically the front panels of the speakers glued together, while the main body of the "back" was made from the back panels of the same speakers glued together. The roundish hump thing on the back came from some sort of glow in the dark foam disk shooting toy

this one: http://www.qvc.com/Shooting-Stars-Glow-in-the-Dark-Foam-Disk-Shooter.product.T21572.html

the cylindrical part of the head was made out of two large taco bell cups, and that seems to be a pretty common feature in a lot of kit bashing projects i have seen (the shape not the taco bell cups lol), i assume because it is similar looking to the rebel ship in a new hope. For my next project i will try to go with a more unique design.


It ended up being just about 3 feet long, but that was actually a last minute decision. It was originally going to be a much more "stumpy" looking design with a neck about 1/3 as long, but once i bought the piece of PVC i decided it just looked better longer. Because of that the neck has less detail then it would have had originally, but i still think it was the right choice.


Let me know what you guys think, and give me any tips or advice you think would have made it better!

PS: This was my first time ever using bondo or modeling glue, so go easy on me lol
 
looks great! for your first try at scratching that is amazing work! i actually have had those speakers so i picked them and the cup out. besides that great use of parts. nothing that really jumps out as obvious. the only reason i picked out the speakers and such is i like to play a game with myself and try to figure out what others used with out knowing. kind of sharpening my spidey sences for good parts.

now i'm going to switch to the constructive critism. please, please. don't take this as i tearing you work apart. these are just the things that i see that you can keep an ey out for next ime so your next one can be even better. take them as more of hints for later.

first up if you don't have a set of small files you might want to invest in a set. they can be had cheaply at most home improvement stores or online. just look for jewlers files, or needle files. something like these.

http://eze-lap.com/control/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/EZ_NeedleFiles.jpg

they don't have to be this comprehensive. most only come with like five files. all the basic shapes. i say this because of the pieces that you put on the pvc tube neck are sticking up a little. not bad. but you wanted to know what we saw. a little filing to round the bottom of those parts to match that of the pipe, or if you would have used a hack saw or razor saw to cut knotches for the ends of the parts to slip into would have gone a long way. focusing on that same area. you mentioned that you thought it was to sparce in details. not so. this is the tricky area in scratch building. knowing when to say when on greebeling. the only thing i would add if you wanted just a little more there, would be to take the sodier/wire and run a couple "tubes" out to your center details.any more and it risks becoming cluttered.

actully the whole ship could benifit from a little use of this technique.you have a lot of holes in your different parts that could have piping going from one another. just don't do straight shots of line. route them in z patters and such. basically rout them inbetween and around panels for the most part.the melenium falcon,the corvette ship from star wars, and the battle star gallactica are all really great examples of this. just look of reference shots of them and take a look for ispiration. they seem to be the type of ship you are gearing towards.just don't go over board with the piping or you will ruin the look of your ship. like i said fine lines. what i do is add a little here and there. step back a couple feet, look at it. if it needs more i add it. if not i leave it alone. and symetry on the part of tubing is not always necessary. depends on how nice of a ship its supposed to be.

the other nit pick i have is on you forward sectionon, on the bottom, you have an antenna array/cannon assmbly there. the straw tube that you used. i'm going to guess sucker stick of q-tip stick. is all one size. i would have found a tube that was just a tad bigger or a thinner piece to go inside the tube. bigger to ut out pieces and fit them over the tube to break up the lines. or a thinner part to step down and be a point on an antena. but something to break up the one sized tube lines. but that's just a minor pick.

another thing that i notice is that most of your pieces are just one piece added to the outer hull. don't be afraid to layer parts. or add one part on top of another to make it a whole new piece. take the gearish looking pieces at the very front, top section of your back section. putting the back most one ontop of the forward ones would have been cool. or maybe something like a hub cap or gear on it. or another piece on the inside of it. it helpst to have tons of parts laying around to play with. i understand that you don't.(yet, cue the meniacle laughter) but stacking details can really change the look of one neat part into that one awesome part.

now what can really make all of this pop is in the painting process. a good light color with a good aplication of grime washes and pastelles can really bring this to life and make everyting stand out better. so watch videos on how to do weathing or read walkthroughs. adam savage does some great ones on his one day builds on youtube. you have to kind of hunt and peck for the gems. i really wish he would do a series on all of his modeling knowledge of wright a book.the man has amazing skills.

that's all i could really see. like i said in the bigining mostly nit picking just to draw your attention to how it can be "upgraded". i saw nothing there where i would say you messed up or missed the mark. mostly small detailing. your off to a great start. just to warn you. this stuff gets in your blood. and oce it's there it never goes truely away.lol

also, just as a p.s. you are going to see these guys in these vids with a bench full of tools. you don't have to have all of that. most are just niceties. that we get after years of doing this. you also don't have to run out and get them all at once. right now is all you really need is a good set of crafting razor blades(didn't want to say exacto for fear of you thinking that were the ones you needed to buy, any of that type will do) mabe a pin vice(hand drill made for small bits http://www.modelcrafttoolsusa.com/1...uble-ended-swivel-top-x5-drills-ppv2237-d.jpg ) a good metal straight edge, pencils, glue of choice, and maybe a razor saw. long off goal might be a decent dremel like product with a flex shaft. once you have one you will wonder how you lived with out one. but i would wait to see if you want to stick with doing this first. since your at the painting stage i would recomend a thing of cheap water colors for wethering and mabey a cheap box of non oil pastells for weathering powders. but really build up over time. you will be able to tell what you really need and don't.

this and starshipmodeler.net/talk/index.php are great areas for sci fi ship knowledge. keep us posted on how this ship and any future ones go.
 
Nice design based on "found" parts.
Most times when I scratch build and kitbash stuff, I spend hours rearranging the parts and trying different layouts. When you spend that much time, the parts look very familiar to you so you don't think you got the look right because you can identify all of the components. After a few months not looking at it, that knowledge of the parts, fades. That's when you really get to appreciate your own work.

TazMan2000
 
Thanks for the constructive feedback!

Yeah pipes were a thing i really wanted to add. i think a few going down the neck and maybe a few on the "camel hump" on the back section (following the curved contours) would have added a good look to it, I even bought several different sizes of solder for that very reason, but unfortunately i just had a very hard time with it! :( every time i tried to shape it it just came out really crooked and not very good looking. on top of that i realized i had no idea how to adhere it to the plastic, because the model glue i bought didn't seem to work with the metal. Eventually frustration got the best of me and i decided that would be something to do for my second ship lol (plus once i get it down there is no reason i cant still add some onto this one)


I actually do own a set of files, i think i just didn't spend enough time making it better as i could have to be honest, next time i will try to be more thorough and spend more time on it! :)
 
Yeah solder can be a pain to straiten some times. I usually cut a lenght that is about what I need. Put it on a flat table, and use a metal ruler or something similar to roll it on said surface. It should smooth most of it out. Takes some practice.

I like to use the metal wire for wrapping fake flowers. They sell it in the craft departments. Not to bad on price. Or I use different gauges of copper wire. But I keep my eyes out for any wire that will work. I've used snake chain before. (Jewelry dept) metalized ribbon. All kinds of things.

I usually start by drawing my lines on the outer hull and work on the routing till something looks right. The figure out what type will work, cut to length,then start bending to shape to match the drawings. I use round nose pliers from the jewelry sections of the craft sections. Like these.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31VG6N5ZMXL.jpg

But any pliers will do. These just give a nicer bend in my mind.

I use super glue, also known as can glue to hold mine on. Actually I use it for almost all my scratch building now. As it holds to a lot of plastics, metals and wood that model glues don't.

Any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Love spreading knowledge. Hope all this helps. Can't wait to see your next project.
 
Problem I found with solder is that it is too soft- even with supports a simple bump can cause it to bend again and very hard to fix properly.
Copper wire and florist's wire work best for me Styrene rods can also be bent wit a little heat.

I really like how your fist design worked out- very well done!
 
Hit up your local thrift store. A $2 dollar appliance can yield a lot of fun parts once you crack it open. Anything mechanical is gonna have cool parts inside...clocks, old electronics, stereos etc.

Insulation foam is sold in big blocks for cheap. Hot glue them together to get a bigger block to carve out the basic shape (but run some 2-3" inch PVC pipe through it first for strength. Cheapo styrene from yard signs, Model greeblies and paint.

I would get some design sketches first and then scale them up to what you want. $150 is doable if you are creative sourcing materials and dont go for the 'click and pay' option.
 
I use super glue, also known as can glue to hold mine on. Actually I use it for almost all my scratch building now. As it holds to a lot of plastics, metals and wood that model glues don't.


Is there a specific type/brand you recommend? I tried using some brush on krazy glue i had lying around (and did use it for some parts) but it still wasn't working as well as i had hoped, i assume there are better options than krazy glue though lol


Any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Love spreading knowledge. Hope all this helps. Can't wait to see your next project.

well now that you mention it, i have recently been planning to build a small space ship interior set for a short film (same short film i want to make these models for) and i had a question about painting styrofoam. I have about 25 identical styrofoam packaging pieces that are about 3" x 3" x 3" in size. they look pretty cool and i was going to have them running in a row on the interior wall. However when i went to go and paint one i used black spray paint and... it sort of dissolved lol

Am i going to have to hand paint them with acrylic? or is there a way to use the spray paint without melting them?

thanks for any and all advice!
 
However when i went to go and paint one i used black spray paint and... it sort of dissolved lol

Am i going to have to hand paint them with acrylic? or is there a way to use the spray paint without melting them?

thanks for any and all advice!

The propellent in most spray paints melts foam. There are special types of paint for painting foam. Usually any water-based paint (ie: acrylic) will work.

SB
 
for glue brands i just use the "super glue" brand ones with the red caps and the metal toothpaste syle tubes. i've also heard very good things about the gorilla glue version of super glue.but i have no personal experiance with it. i've also seen people use the large bottles of the Cyanoacrylate glue (what the ca in ca glue stands for) that you can get online or in hobby shops with good results.

as for painting styrofoam, i have nothing to input on that. everything ive tried has either melted it. or just bubled off of the surface and not stuck. i love to use the melting effect to make great weatherd looking stone for my halloween decorations.little primer for the stone. little greeen for the moss and wha-la weathered stone. lol. not what you were looking for, but still fun info. i would try more latex style paints as suggested. they would be your best bet. or if you have access to a vacuform machine you could vacu form it to make coppies in plastic. then you can paint it with what ever.
 
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Regarding the painting of foam, spray paint will melt most kinds of foam, but there are ways around this. you can seal the surface with something water based, like PVA (either white glue or carpenter's glue) or something like Mod Podge which is essentially PVA with varnish mixed it. Also, if you have an airbrush, you can experiment with spraying acrylic or latex through that onto the foam. My understanding is that the propellant in the rattle can is what causes the melting, more so than the actual paint, so spraying with just compressed air through an airbrush should yield no ill effects. I've successfully airbrushed foam on a number of occasions.

--Alex
 
Got some pictures of my second (and much smaller) spaceship model. I think this one could have a better silhouette, it looks a little messy compared to the big one, but overall i am happy. I actually got around to giving this one a proper paint job (or at least as proper as i can manage lol)

P1100841.JPG

P1100842.JPG

P1100851.JPG

P1100848.JPG

P1100850.JPG

P1100849.JPG

P1100852.JPG

P1100853.JPG

P1100854.JPG


And thanks for the advice on the foam guys, ill just have to use acrylic i guess, it will be slow but should be worth it :)
 
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