"2001: A Space Odyssey" Discovery Build

i have exactly that same printer, with exactly the same limitation of only being able to print with PLA.

a quick look on google found these two chemicals will smooth PLA like acetone smooths abs:

tetrahydrofuran
https://www.amazon.com/10097-Indust...id=1480484692&sr=8-1&keywords=tetrahydrofuran

and

Ethyl Acetate
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ethyl-Aceta...475395?hash=item1a1d861203:g:L3wAAOxybi9Re0uW

both are just as nasty as acetone, maybe worse, so treat them accordingly. (rubber gloves, ventilated area, etc )

I have also found that the IPS weld-on #3 cement for acrylics seems to melt PLA, but it seems to weaken it somewhat. I have brushed the #3 over the surface with a small hobby brush like you would buy at a hobby shop or arts & crafts store.

Gimp... what resolution are you printing that at?
 
i have exactly that same printer, with exactly the same limitation of only being able to print with PLA.

a quick look on google found these two chemicals will smooth PLA like acetone smooths abs:

tetrahydrofuran
https://www.amazon.com/10097-Indust...id=1480484692&sr=8-1&keywords=tetrahydrofuran

and

Ethyl Acetate
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ethyl-Aceta...475395?hash=item1a1d861203:g:L3wAAOxybi9Re0uW

both are just as nasty as acetone, maybe worse, so treat them accordingly. (rubber gloves, ventilated area, etc )

I have also found that the IPS weld-on #3 cement for acrylics seems to melt PLA, but it seems to weaken it somewhat. I have brushed the #3 over the surface with a small hobby brush like you would buy at a hobby shop or arts & crafts store.

Gimp... what resolution are you printing that at?

Yeah, I've read about those other couple of chemicals...they seem...harsh. :lol

It sounds like what you were doing with the IPS Weld-On was basically the same thing that I was doing with the epoxy. The epoxy works REALLY well...when it's mixed well. The last time I was doing parts with it, they were coming out pretty well except for one or two small areas. I'm guessing it was because I wasn't quite mixing it up well enough...so I gave it one last go and decided to make sure I mixed it up really, really, well...turns out I mixed it up too much...after I started using it, I noticed the plastic cup I had it in had melted and the entire thing was extremely hot...so I'm guessing that I mixed it up TOO much. It's also possible that I had too much of it in the cup...I was trying to mix up a relatively large amount.

I just got tired of having it not cure correctly, so I kind of just gave up. It's possible I had a bad batch of the stuff, but Bob Smith Industries usually puts out pretty good products, so I don't think that would be the case.

I'm printing at .2mm. I was thinking that when I get closer to being done with the rest of the parts, I might give the control module another go at .1mm...just to see if it ends up looking significantly different. In my experience, the parts I've done in .1 that I've also done in .2 don't REALLY seem to show much of a difference in overall quality...but on something like this, it might make a difference.

I have been really thinking of upgrading to the Pro model of my DaVinci printer...which gives me the benefits of the heated print bed and the ability to print ABS...but I've got this one so locked in that I am reluctant to start over with another product only for the ability to go with ABS. I feel like I'd rather spend my money on one of the newer dual headed units that can print support material in PVA glue, which allows you to remove supports by simply submerging the part in water. That's just an awesome feature. Of course, I'm HOPING that SLA printers drop in price to the point where they're actually mildly reasonable in the next year or so...if they do, I'll be SLA all the way.

I've had good luck filling in mild print lines with some high fill primer, which seems to do a good job of smoothing them out. I'm not really sure what kind of paint I can use OVER the high fill primer, though...I'll be getting myself a hobby grade airbrush/compressor to do the paint work on this, so that will be something I need to work out when the time comes.
 
As a side note, I just hit "Select All" on a page on my Photobucket account to delete those pictures on that page, but I apparently selected every single picture in my account. So those are all gone now. The pictures on the first page are gone and I have no way of getting them back, as I deleted them from my phone when I uploaded them to Photobucket, because, you know...why would I need them on my phone?? :lol

Sigh...sorry about that anyone that's been following the thread. The sad part is, I had nearly 200 photos in that folder that got deleted, and I have virtually no clue what most of them were.
 
Decided to give the printer, and myself really, a couple of days off. I'll start printing the other couple of parts for the sphere in the next day or so.

I want to thank everyone for their comments and advice.
 
Okay I lied...I'm currently printing the collar for the sphere, which is the piece that basically attaches the command module to the rest of the ship.

I also realized that I will probably need to print the cargo containers again...they're very slightly warped and it causes them to not sit correctly on the connectors when they are all glued together...basically they kind of pull up at the sides JUST enough to make it so that they don't make good contact for the glue. So, I decided to reslice the models with some brims on them to see if that cures the issue. I've had very good luck on other parts using brims, so I'm guessing that they'll work fine on this. If not, a bunch of sanding SHOULD solve the issue...but we'll see how the alternate prints go first.
 
Update for the day.

I got the piece printed that's called the "collar." It's the piece that goes on the back of the sphere and kind of tapers that piece back into the overall shape of the rest of the ship.

ABD26B22-2D9A-482E-9C64-03497E9C03E5_zps6xuaru5q.jpg


8658B5A4-4426-4F0C-BC12-273179AC915C_zpslj8eqet5.jpg


The collar printed really well, and it showed me that my sphere actually had a VERY tiny bit of warping on one of it's sides...not really noticeable and I was able to sand it out so it seemed to fit just fine.

One thing I'm noticing about this section of the ship, from this model and from the reference pictures I've been using online is that the command section of the ship almost looks as if it was designed to detach from the rest of the ship at some point in time...like the sphere could be jettisoned from the entire thing. I've not watched the movie in YEARS, so I guess it's possible that this is actually mentioned, or possibly mentioned in some publication about the film, but it just looks as if that's the case.

When I'm assembling it, I'm not going to use a ton of epoxy around the edges of the collar/sphere because of the fact that it appears to me like it's designed to come apart if it were an actual ship...the fit will be tight enough that it won't be noticeable, yet it will leave it "separated" enough that you'll be able to tell they are two distinct pieces. I feel that if I use epoxy around the sides of it, that some of the epoxy could seep out to the very edges and give it the appearance that it's one solid piece, which seems to go against the reference photos. It doesn't help that reference photos of this section of the ship seem to be primarily from OTHER models, though...as most of the angles of scenes from the film I've found show the Discovery from a 3/4 angle from the front, so the area where the sphere actually makes connection to the "rest" of the ship is hidden by the shape of the sphere itself.

I also tonight was able to get a good print from the three cargo modules, and actually assembled one to make sure it will go together well. I think it's going to work out just fine.

I'm currently printing the final two parts of the front command module, and then I'll be down to the point where I only have cargo modules and couplings to print, other than the dish assembly. As I've mentioned, the dish assembly is supposed to be a pretty difficult print...I'm going to give it a few shots, and then if need be I'll just have Shapeways print it for me and ship it to me...I'm not going to let one difficult piece that doesn't work end up ruining the entire model for me. I'd rather have it printed somewhere else than try to skip it or adjust it to the point where it just doesn't look good.

In my true style, this project that I was planning on having last me for a VERY long time will probably end up being done other than paint before I even know it. I do this with RC stuff, too...buy a nice kit planning on putting a section together every night for a month, and get it done in two sittings. :lol

The good thing, though, is that since I don't really have much else going on with my printer, when I get all of the parts done I'm going to give it another go on the command module at .1mm resolution to see how the detail looks, and I'll do it over a raft so that the tiny bit of warpage probably negates itself. If that one comes out, it's possible I may experiment a little with brushing on the epoxy to see how the pieces end up looking. I'm actually a bit disappointed...I threw away the parts that weren't working out for whatever reason with the trash this past week...what I should have done was saved those side pieces of the drive section and tried the epoxy that I have now on them to see how it cured and if it maintained it's detail. I'm using some of the Gorilla epoxy that comes in the dual syringe so it's basically impossible to get the mixture ratio incorrect...it's more expensive to do it this way than it is to buy the larger bottles of BSI epoxy, but at least this way I know I'm not managing to mix it incorrectly. Push comes to shove I'll just print another part of the drive unit JUST to see how it works...I wouldn't even need to print the whole thing, I could print half of it then cancel the print and just epoxy the detail that has already printed.

Oh, I also finally glued the actual engine portions into that rear drive unit...they'd just been press fit in there, but seeing as I'm pretty much done with that section I figured it was time to get them permanently attached.
 
That collar looks good and you're right, the main command module could be detached from the main ship. Details that the NASA consultants on pre-production thought would make sense.
 
That collar looks good and you're right, the main command module could be detached from the main ship. Details that the NASA consultants on pre-production thought would make sense.

Okay thanks. I knew it looked like that, and the "I pay too much attention to NASA" part of me said it would be logical for it to separate really kicked in.


Im going to get an airbrush ordered tonight, and then I'll start researching paints for it.
 
Your Discovery is looking pretty good. 2001 is one of my favorite movies and spent around 2 years making CGI models of some of the ships. Would love to do them with a 3D printer, but was wondering if the lines from the different layers would be visible after painting? How much prep work would be required in order to get a smooth paint job so it doesn't look 3D printed?
 
Your Discovery is looking pretty good. 2001 is one of my favorite movies and spent around 2 years making CGI models of some of the ships. Would love to do them with a 3D printer, but was wondering if the lines from the different layers would be visible after painting? How much prep work would be required in order to get a smooth paint job so it doesn't look 3D printed?


That's a pretty loaded question, in all honesty.

PLA requires a coating of some type, or extensive filler/sanding to be completely smooth. There are a few relatively harsh chemicals that you can use to give it a "vapor bath" that would smooth it out.

ABS can use acetone for a vapor bath, so it's much easier to get smoothed out using a vapor.

The problem with valor baths is they snooth the plastic by effectively melting it just slightly...too much vapor or too long of a bath and you end up with too much melting. On a model like this with so many tiny details, I feel like the vapor baths would end up muddying the details, almost to a point where on some pieces it might really detract from the look.

I've got one of the cargo pod pieces with a layer of epoxy curing right now, so we can see how the details work out with that. It also wouldn't be too difficult for me to fill/sand a cargo pod to show how that looks.

Ultimately ALL of these methods have drawbacks on a piece as detailed as this, save for one option...

...an SLA printer.

SLA printers use light to harden a resin, and the lines are almost completely invisible. The downside? They're way more expensive than an FFF printer to start, and from what I can tell the materials also seem pricier. So there's a higher cost of entry, and a higher cost to actually print.

I feel like SLA stuff will be dropping in price though as more companies start to offer it. If a decent machine can get down to that $8-900 range I will certainly make the plunge.
 
I got my .25" brass tube ordered today.

I've been thinking about how I want to mount everything up when it gets here. I think I'll paint things that would prove difficult to airbrush before assembly...but everything else I'll be painting after they're mounted to the rod so that I can also paint the rod at the same time.

I'll be using the epoxy in very small quantities to glue the pieces to the rod. It should work well.
 
So...on inspection tonight, it turns out that my assembled cargo pod section is...missing!!!

I blame a cat. I'm 100% sure that my cargo section has been taken hostage and is being hidden somewhere in my house. Like the hundreds of toys that have been given to these cats in the past, I'm sure that this, too, will wind up in the Black Hole that they seem to put these toys in.

Oh well...at least it's an easy part to print. :lol
 
It's probably worth making a jig to ensure that the spine sections are accurately and uniformly aligned and spaced. The jig is also useful for holding units in place while epoxy sets. When I made my Stargazer Discovery although I made simple jigs they were invaluable. A misaligned section is really noticeable on the Discovery.
 
It's probably worth making a jig to ensure that the spine sections are accurately and uniformly aligned and spaced. The jig is also useful for holding units in place while epoxy sets. When I made my Stargazer Discovery although I made simple jigs they were invaluable. A misaligned section is really noticeable on the Discovery.


How did you make them?

I haven't really thought of a good and simple way to make sure that everything is straight.
 
I used I section ABS girders cut and mitred then joined to make 60 degree internal set squares with mitred ends so that they formed an open inverted V when placed on the glass sheet I used as an assembly board. Smaller triangles of plasticard were used as supports and spacing guides. Brass rods and engineers' squares helped align units along the spine.
I don't think the materials really matter, use what you have and can work with, provided that the jigs are accurate and rigid you should be fine.
Think ahead about where the jig will rest on the model because the surface detailing on the spine units obviously creates an uneven surface.
 
I took a break from printing today.

I won't do much tomorrow, either. I have Monday and Tuesday off, though, so I will be trying to get several of the cargo pod sections complete. I did a test of one with a different layout and brim on it, and it seemed to come out nice and flat with no warping at all, so I'll be utilizing that method for all of them I think. It's quite a bit more cleanup than just straight printing them, but ultimately it will be worth it.

I think I've picked out my airbrush...now I just need to do some more research on paint that you actually use with it.

Oh, I forgot to mention...I found an image that appears to be from a book that had pictures of the original model, and it has some good reference shots to show which cargo pods actually go where...so that's cool. I was planning on just kind of randomly doing it, but with this I can get them pretty much movie accurate. Good stuff.

I've also come up with how I think I want to display it...but that's going to be some work that's going to require getting to some of the woodworking tools at my father's house. And getting some glass cut. And getting a nice light. And a vinyl print that's pretty large...and yeah...a lot of stuff. :D
 
It's worth getting the pattern of modules right !
Interesting and useful stuff on Stargazer's site http://www.planet3earth.co.uk/2001_a_space_odyssey.htm
Great illustrations by Simon Atkinson : http://www.satkinsoncreativearts.com/2001-limited-edition-prints

Trivia: I was lucky enough to meet author Piers Bizony and raised Stargazer's theory that the Discovery model was 60 feet long rather than the oft quoted 54 feet. He replied that 54 feet was the only length he recalled being mentioned by anyone involved in making 2001, but then graciously admitted that the quote "The large model is 54 ft long with a 6 ft diameter Command Module " certainly allowed for a total model length of 60 feet. That quote first appeared in Jerome Agel's 1970 "The Making of . . " book so is pretty contemporary with the film. It's probably unprovable either way, but Stargazer's arguments are convincing and I agree that for consistency and scaling Discovery models of 60 feet and 15 feet make a lot more sense than 54 feet and 12 feet. ( Which scaling factor would you choose, 1/4 or 2/9ths ?)
 
So I printed four of the coupling pieces when I got home from work...quick, easy pieces to print. After that, I figured I'd just load the other eight up to print and get them done. I'm getting to the point where the only thing I have left is the cargo pods, and I should be able to finish those up relatively easily.

Interestingly enough, the design that this modeler made for the coupling pieces actually has a system built right into it to make sure that the cargo pods are straight provided I make sure that the pods are attached to the center piece that holds them all together correctly. The couplings have three "fins" on them. These fins are arranged so that the two closest to one another are EXACTLY the same width apart as one of the cargo pods...so basically, you put a cargo pod assembly on the rod, then the coupling, and as long as the coupling has those two fins lined up correctly with the single pod, then the next triple pod assembly can line up with the other side of the fins and they'll be perfectly straight.

Couplingx4_3_preview_featured_zpswamjfkis.png


There is the 3D file for the couplings, and you can see the fins I'm mentioning.

The fit of these pieces on the 1/4" dowel rod I have is also fairly tight, and the dowel has been "squished" a bit by sliding parts on and off of it...so I'm actually kind of thinking that the metal tubing might not even really NEED epoxy to hold the cargo pods in place...so I can get them all on there, make sure they're all straight, then just dab a tiny bit of epoxy on each piece that actually attaches to the rod and that should essentially "lock" the parts in place.

Of course, if after a dry fit this doesn't seem to be the case, I'll go through the process of designing something else to make sure that they all are completely straight.
 
In case any one is curious. There are a couple of other ways to smooth out a print.
You can use a product from Reynolds materials called XTC-3d.
http://www.reynoldsam.com/product/xtc-3d/
It's a two part epoxy that is self leveling. It's also not to thick so the details will still show up. You can sand it after wards if you want to.
You can also spray the model with Rust-oleum 2in1 prime.
Make sure the can says "Filler and Sandable" on the front. It's a primer that will help fill in the lines.
I've also used Gunze Sangyo Mr.Surfacer 500. Only problem with Mr.Surfacer is It can be hard to find sometimes
and the bottle is small so it would be impractical on a large scale models.
If you try any of these test it out and make sure it's doing what you want first.
Hope that helps some.
 
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