MGC Mauser to DL44

Sounds good. This is what I've found so far and what was offered here too.

- Oven cleaner Easy Off heavy duty apparently is a thing that does work on vacuum metalized chrome plastic parts. I was surprised to see this working on anodized AL also. Couple videos for your entertainment... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ro1yiA8CW0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNAB45zQUtk
Thank you Halliwax ;)

- I'm chatting with some folks at Ecolink to see if they would recommend there product on pot metal. Stripol NI Ultra Seems to be a relatively safe stripper. http://www.ecolink.com/info/nickel-stripping-stripol-ultra/

- MetalX B-929 is another stripper I found. non-caustic http://www.finishing.com/chemicals/stripper.shtml
http://www.caswellplating.com/elect...rippers/metalx-b-929-nickel-stripper-5lb.html

This video is removing plating on steel gun parts... I know it's not pot metal, but kind of gives you an idea on the process. This one does require heat at 120 degrees. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mI0tAec5kFA

- Then in the event of needing to repair pot metal I found this... http://www.muggyweld.com/ Super Alloy 1 This makes me a bit nervous attempting to do this because of the high heat required. Demonstration video of some repairs being done on pot metal... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dINNNtVk0cU

Once I hear back from the MetalX and Stripol NI Ultra folks on what they advise I'll get started ordering some supplies. I don't have any Oven Cleaner at the moment, but worth a small test.

By the way what do you guys recommend putting on parts once they've been stripped? I'm guessing water wouldn't have much effect on zinc alloy's once the parts have been cleaned, wiped down and dried off.
 
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Sounds good. This is what I've found so far and what was offered here too.

- Oven cleaner Easy Off heavy duty apparently is a thing that does work on vacuum metalized chrome plastic parts. I was surprised to see this working on anodized AL also. Couple videos for your entertainment... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ro1yiA8CW0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNAB45zQUtk
Thank you Halliwax ;)

- I'm chatting with some folks at Ecolink to see if they would recommend there product on pot metal. Stripol NI Ultra Seems to be a relatively safe stripper. http://www.ecolink.com/info/nickel-stripping-stripol-ultra/

- MetalX B-929 is another stripper I found. non-caustic http://www.finishing.com/chemicals/stripper.shtml
http://www.caswellplating.com/elect...rippers/metalx-b-929-nickel-stripper-5lb.html

This video is removing plating on steel gun parts... I know it's not pot metal, but kind of gives you an idea on the process. This one does require heat at 120 degrees. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mI0tAec5kFA

- Then in the event of needing to repair pot metal I found this... http://www.muggyweld.com/ Super Alloy 1 This makes me a bit nervous attempting to do this because of the high heat required. Demonstration video of some repairs being done on pot metal... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dINNNtVk0cU

Once I hear back from the MetalX and Stripol NI Ultra folks on what they advise I'll get started ordering some supplies. I don't have any Oven Cleaner at the moment, but worth a small test.

By the way what do you guys recommend putting on parts once they've been stripped? I'm guessing water wouldn't have much effect on zinc alloy's once the parts have been cleaned, wiped down and dried off.

If you're talking about after they've been stripped, then the best thing to refinish them would be either Birchwood Casey's Super Blue, Blue Wonder Gun Blue, or simple Black Paint - it all depends on what kind of look you're going for.
The modern consensus is that at least the lower half of the ANH DL-44 was painted during production, and that in turn is what lead to the "Mystery Disc" that we've spent so much time scratching out heads over.
 
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Sorry for the delay. Ecolink needed to check with some of their local manufacturers and the Metalx folks were hesitant on recommending without knowing the full composition of the zinc alloy. Trying to get a sample size from Metalx to test in discreet areas. Ecolink I just haven't pestered hard enough. I sent another email for them to follow up.

Sorry for the slow updates

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Sorry I don't have anything new. Seems like all these vendors are reticent in using on our MGC parts without knowing what the base material composition for sure. So it's going to be trial and error to concretely know. I'm sitting on 3 MGC's and nervous myself about slagging them in anyway. I keep hoping to see if someone else tried something also other than paint. :)

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Scottjua had success by beadblasting the chromed MGCs...took a hell of a time to get it off, but the results look promising.
Would not risk any chemical treatment, only mechanical removal!!!
 
I used Brasso on my gold-plated Marushin Mauser 712 (just to take the gold off) then scrubbed the chrome underneath that with 0000 wire wool (just to 'key' it) before painting with Rust-Oleum multi-surface black paint and when that hardened I buffed it with the wire wool again and it gave a fantastic hard finish with a look very much like antique gun-blue. This was a technique I pinched from ScottJua's live fire build and it works a treat.

bn5019115q-rust-oleum-universal-all-surface-satin-black-400ml-specialist-paints-12231.jpg
 
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Little bit of a Necro post but I really like the idea in post #29 - redbutton and I both have chrome mausers now that need a recoat. If the plating is such a pain, the steel wool will help the paint adhere I'm guessing.

What version of rustoleum are we talking, BBQ black?
 
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