MGC Mauser to DL44

cyberblock

cyberblock

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I have a couple MGC Mausers and they both have a bright gold, coppery plating on them. Does anybody have any experience with stripping the plating from the pot metal MGC. I've been poking around trying to see if anybody has dealt with this before. Eventually, I would like to blue and get started on a "Greedo killer" I'm including pics of the one. The second one I have has a more even finish and is brighter. I'll post pics of the other one at a later date.
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i know oven clean removes anodize in seconds. wouldn't hurt to try it on the tip


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I'll give it a shot halliwax. I would have never imagined that oven cleaner would strip anodization on pot metal. :)
I was thinking I was going to need some other acid or electrolysis process to remove.

I'll test with the small flat piece on the bottom of the cartridge section.
 
Well the luster on this one is definitely dulled. It's more of a silvery, golden hue. The other one in hand has a bright polished gold look to it with crisp details. At best guess I think it's a simulated gold ano.
 
More detail pics...
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From the Wikipedia page this explains why the color and the additional "SMG" stamping.
[h=2]Regulations[/h]The various Japanese modelgun laws can be quite confusing, as the initial modelguns where fairly unregulated and some models were closer to real firearms than replicas.
In 1965, the Japanese government began regulating the replica firearms industry. Changes included requiring that the barrels have internal blocks to prevent the firing of projectiles.
The Firearms/Swords law revision in 1971 introduced more safety changes. It requires all metal model handguns released thereafter have to be painted in white or yellow color. Since then, all metal model handguns are either painted in gold color or gold plated. In addition, the modelguns have to stamp on a crown mark and "SM" mark on the frame to identification purposes.
The second law revision in 1977 is even stricter. It prohibited the use of hard metal other than zinc alloy in main parts of modelguns. The barrel and frame of metal model handguns must not be separable to prevent the interchange of the barrel. Super hard steel is also needed to insert in the barrel of metal model handguns to prevent modification of structure. The SMG mark replaces the SM mark in order to meet the new regulation.

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I had a catastrophic MGC meltdown earlier this year trying to strip the gold ones. There's a layer of copper under the chrome that you'll have to deal with as well. My advice is to just polish off the gold and spray paint them. Anything beyond that is cost prohibitive (reverse electro-plating) or just risky (chemical stripping).
 
Hi Mark, yeah I think I'll start experimenting with the barrel section also.

Hi Veektohr, I understand. I've been warned. :) Zinc AL alloys don't do so well under high heat from some of the chemical strippings that I've read about also.

I guess another alternative one that I'm not entirely thrilled about trying is possibly bead blasting the plating, but I think that will soften to many details and still won't be as thorough as going a chemical route.

I found a new MGC facebook page in Japan. They seem to have quite a few similar guns in stock that have this gold plating and I'm sure they might have had some customers who might have already tried removing. Once the plate is removed down to it's greyish/silver I can at least blue or darken the base pot metal. That's the goal anyway. :)

KramStaar said:
Why don't you test any chemical process by working the end of the barrel only?

Regards
Click to expand...
 
I've owned a few MGC C96's myself, and I can tall you that Acetone will clear off the standard gun finish they put on their guns without damaging the frame itself. Provided that the chrome finish somewhat resembles the finish they usually do, and not actual plating, then I see no reason why Acetone shouldn't work its magic.

In the event you need something a little tougher then I'd say to pick up some CLR or other alternate pipe cleaner; that stuff should eat right through the finish.
 
Thanks for the tip. I'm not familiar with CLR. Google searching now. Thanks

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CLR will cut through most anything you put in front of it that isn't metal, so just be careful handling it, if you decide to go that route.

And if all else fails, I'd just say sanding and polishing by hand would be your last fallback (trust me; I've done that, and getting in all the little crevices is a pain).

Still, two blinged-out MGCs is better than none at all, as I'm sure most of us here would agree on. XD
 
Agreed. I'm taking this slow. So I apologize if folks are looking for results right away. Gathering lots of info stage. Then I'll try in small discreet spots before going full tilt.

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