Rebelscum
Sr Member
I think that's part of why the Skytower is so cool, they actually built it out.
Oblivion Inspired Office Build
- Thread starter hdtheater
- Start date
I think that's part of why the Skytower is so cool, they actually built it out.
https://youtu.be/i9m6KzRMWnA
They start showing the Skytower at 4:36. Makes me want to buy some land away from HOA restrictions and build for real. Once the kids are gone, I could downsize quite nicely into this.
-Eric
They start showing the Skytower at 4:36. Makes me want to buy some land away from HOA restrictions and build for real. Once the kids are gone, I could downsize quite nicely into this.
-Eric
I have been working hard the last couple of days to get the cabinet trim carved out and installed.
I separated the outer trim into four sections, I integrated the rounded corners into the side pieces and kept the top and the bottom straight. As much as I wanted to make it one piece, the cabinet was just too long to do it that way. I did cut the top and bottom piece a little long, just in case my dimensions shifted during installation. If the 1/2" material wasn't a full 1/2", it would add up to something significant over width of the entire cabinet.
Here it is with the center sections added and nail holes and seems sanded smooth,
-Eric
I separated the outer trim into four sections, I integrated the rounded corners into the side pieces and kept the top and the bottom straight. As much as I wanted to make it one piece, the cabinet was just too long to do it that way. I did cut the top and bottom piece a little long, just in case my dimensions shifted during installation. If the 1/2" material wasn't a full 1/2", it would add up to something significant over width of the entire cabinet.
Here it is with the center sections added and nail holes and seems sanded smooth,
-Eric
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This is super cool. I loved the look of this movie. Following...
Thanks!
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i agree, the design team on this was top notch. I can't believe they didn't do an Art of Oblivion book for the movie.
I have been out f town for the last week and need to get my photos all sorted out. I'll get some updates up hopefully tomorrow. Thanks for your interest!
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Thanks! I thought was one of the nice touches from the design. How often do you see rounded corners in today's homes?
-Eric
Gimpdiggity
Master Member
Awesome. Like you, I really liked the design of, well, everything, in this film.
I look forward tl how you finish this.
I look forward tl how you finish this.
I have been out of town for the last week. First for work and then to San Antonio for Alamo City Comin Con.
Before I left, I was able to finish up the main cabinet I have been working on. The doors are designed to sit inside the frames of the cabinets, which makes it a bit tricky to insure that the door doesn't hit the frame at the top and bottom, due to the rounded corners. I originally had 100 degree hinges and the doors hit the frames. I traded out to 178 degree hinges and that solved the issue. The larger degree hinge lifted the door further outside the frame to make the right clearance.
The doors are made from 3/4' MDF, which means they were too heavy for the hinges. In order to cut some of the weight out of them, I flipped them over and hogged out about 1/2" thick of material from the backs.
Here they are all nice and installed.
I also, took the time to prime the inside of the cabinets. Normally, I use Shellac based primer for all my MDF work, but that could get rather pricey for a project this big. Most of my projects are much smaller in nature and a rattle can is enough. A rattle can costs around $8.50 a can. I can buy a gallon for $50. I had tried spraying Shellac from the gallon in the past and met with some poor results. The flakes of Shellac gum up the filter in the spray gun and takes forever to clean it. With a $10 gun from Harbor Freight, it is easier to just throw it away and buy a new one.
Instead, I went with Kilz primer and reduced with Floetrol to spray in my gun. That primer is thicker than paint and I had to thin it 50% to get it to spray and it still did a poor job and took a long time to do it. I think in the future, I will just roll on the shellac and sand it smooth. Then follow up with touch up from the rattle can Shellac.
If you have had good experiences finishing MDF on a large scale project, please share your tips.
-Eric
Before I left, I was able to finish up the main cabinet I have been working on. The doors are designed to sit inside the frames of the cabinets, which makes it a bit tricky to insure that the door doesn't hit the frame at the top and bottom, due to the rounded corners. I originally had 100 degree hinges and the doors hit the frames. I traded out to 178 degree hinges and that solved the issue. The larger degree hinge lifted the door further outside the frame to make the right clearance.
The doors are made from 3/4' MDF, which means they were too heavy for the hinges. In order to cut some of the weight out of them, I flipped them over and hogged out about 1/2" thick of material from the backs.
Here they are all nice and installed.
I also, took the time to prime the inside of the cabinets. Normally, I use Shellac based primer for all my MDF work, but that could get rather pricey for a project this big. Most of my projects are much smaller in nature and a rattle can is enough. A rattle can costs around $8.50 a can. I can buy a gallon for $50. I had tried spraying Shellac from the gallon in the past and met with some poor results. The flakes of Shellac gum up the filter in the spray gun and takes forever to clean it. With a $10 gun from Harbor Freight, it is easier to just throw it away and buy a new one.
Instead, I went with Kilz primer and reduced with Floetrol to spray in my gun. That primer is thicker than paint and I had to thin it 50% to get it to spray and it still did a poor job and took a long time to do it. I think in the future, I will just roll on the shellac and sand it smooth. Then follow up with touch up from the rattle can Shellac.
If you have had good experiences finishing MDF on a large scale project, please share your tips.
-Eric
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Thanks!
6644Invader
Active Member
This is a really great idea. Can't wait to see the final product!
Great stuff...a bit surprised that your hinges couldn't hold the weight of your door. What's their measurements? I usually use 150 degree hinges to keep from rubbing and 3 hinges on a 3/4 door, but I guess 178 will do fine alsoKeep up the great work!
Id have to look it up to be exact, but they are something like 35x40. When I get back to my PC, I'll check the file. At the time, I had used the 90 degree and it didn't work. When I went to the store there was really no cost difference between 120 to 178 degree hinges, maybe a buck or two. I just went with 178 to save a trip if I got too conservative.
It's good to know 150 would work too when I make my next trip. Thanks for the info!
-Eric
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Thanks!
I didn't get much done as I had hoped this weekend. Too many other commitments and coming back from travel always takes a bit to get back into the swing of things.
The loft has one window.
I was able to make a window frame for it. I replicated the the trim I used for the cabinet and then incorporated a window sill as well. The nice thing about this is the window frame is one solid piece of wood. No seams to deal with! The sill is finger jointed together and then rests within a rabbet joint on the frame itself. I just need to fill in the nail holes and I'll be done with this one.
Next up is to make a doorway into the crawl space on this wall. The outlet sits a little close to the opening for the frame design to work. I am going to try and incorporate the outlet in the frame on that one. Make it look like one of the panels in the drone workshop.
I am starting to get the itch to start painting things, but I need to wait until I am ready to paint it all.
Thanks,
-Eric
The loft has one window.
I was able to make a window frame for it. I replicated the the trim I used for the cabinet and then incorporated a window sill as well. The nice thing about this is the window frame is one solid piece of wood. No seams to deal with! The sill is finger jointed together and then rests within a rabbet joint on the frame itself. I just need to fill in the nail holes and I'll be done with this one.
Next up is to make a doorway into the crawl space on this wall. The outlet sits a little close to the opening for the frame design to work. I am going to try and incorporate the outlet in the frame on that one. Make it look like one of the panels in the drone workshop.
I am starting to get the itch to start painting things, but I need to wait until I am ready to paint it all.
Thanks,
-Eric
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Rebelscum
Sr Member
Painting MDF. I do a lot of it.
I always use pre-cat lacquer primer / sealer and the and pre-cat finish paint on MDF. It dries superfast, fills well and sands to dust very fast.
The key to a smooth finish on MDF smooth is just getting the primer on and sanded well. Since it's so easy to put on and sand, it takes no time to get there.
The room looks great. Doors are nice.
Are you going to put a couple of LEDs in those door pockets?
I always use pre-cat lacquer primer / sealer and the and pre-cat finish paint on MDF. It dries superfast, fills well and sands to dust very fast.
The key to a smooth finish on MDF smooth is just getting the primer on and sanded well. Since it's so easy to put on and sand, it takes no time to get there.
The room looks great. Doors are nice.
Are you going to put a couple of LEDs in those door pockets?
Thanks Philip!
I sent you a note on the lacquer and local dealers.
I keep thinking about the LED's. I think they need to be there, but I am trying to decide how I would power them. I could easily do a battery pack, but I am trying to figure out an AC powered solution to all of them. When I am all done, I will only have five doors. The three for the cabinet and then one for each crawl space opening. I may add a few faux panels later once the desk is installed and the banisters over the stair well are there. I just need to see how the room is balanced at the time.
-Eric
Rebelscum
Sr Member
I think you'd have to power them with a switch and a transformer or you'd be wearing yourself out turning them on and off individually.
You can buy tape wire to run it across the back of the doors pretty nicely.
I bought some quite a good while back that I think came from taperwire.com. I just checked them and it looks like they are still around. you can get 22 or 26g wire.
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