If you don't want to chemically strip, maybe just using some 0000 Steel Wool after masking it off?
DL-44 live fire build
- Thread starter mptachenko
- Start date
If you don't want to chemically strip, maybe just using some 0000 Steel Wool after masking it off?
mptachenko
Active Member
My kids made their daddy proud today. These helmets were their request not mine!
These aren't the droids you're looking for...
These aren't the droids you're looking for...
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mptachenko
Active Member
I stripped the finish for the mystery disc.
I also got the sight done. These are the aluminum parts from DEC. I went with little magnets in the base to temporarily mount for display and then remove for shooting.
This leads me to another question. Should I use the plastic Avron cylinders for the grill or the cast one from DEC? I like the idea of using the metal one but would the weight tear it off during shooting? Any thoughts or suggestions?
I also got the sight done. These are the aluminum parts from DEC. I went with little magnets in the base to temporarily mount for display and then remove for shooting.
This leads me to another question. Should I use the plastic Avron cylinders for the grill or the cast one from DEC? I like the idea of using the metal one but would the weight tear it off during shooting? Any thoughts or suggestions?
mptachenko
Active Member
What experience have you guys had with the pewter grill in relation to live fire. What is the best way to attach it. I imagine the recoil may just flip it off.
I also did my first couple of test shots and noticed that the barrel sleeve slid back and started to fair open a little where the barrel meets the gun. I would have thought the tapering inside the sleeve would have prevented that. What solution to this did you guys do? Did you just tap into the barrel with the screw that mounts the flash hider or did you put some internal collar in place?
Thanks
I also did my first couple of test shots and noticed that the barrel sleeve slid back and started to fair open a little where the barrel meets the gun. I would have thought the tapering inside the sleeve would have prevented that. What solution to this did you guys do? Did you just tap into the barrel with the screw that mounts the flash hider or did you put some internal collar in place?
Thanks
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scottjua
Master Member
You're learning everything I went through now. I was mentally predicting it but curious to see if my experiences were isolated. Apparently not.
As for the grill the pewter one being heavy will tend to pop off. The mass of it wants to not move with the gun as much. You're better off getting some todds replica tomtit parts and making a legit grill greeblie.
i have some extra if you need.
Mia's for the bull barrel... It's only going to keep happening if you want it removable. Otherwise you're gonna have to be creative and mill some stuff and epoxy some stuff.
i just finished two of them together. Pics and video on my Facebook if you wanna check it out.
As for the grill the pewter one being heavy will tend to pop off. The mass of it wants to not move with the gun as much. You're better off getting some todds replica tomtit parts and making a legit grill greeblie.
i have some extra if you need.
Mia's for the bull barrel... It's only going to keep happening if you want it removable. Otherwise you're gonna have to be creative and mill some stuff and epoxy some stuff.
i just finished two of them together. Pics and video on my Facebook if you wanna check it out.
mptachenko
Active Member
I have some Avron cylinders on order from Todds when ever they finally get the scope done, but thanks.
I have also added 3x more magnets to the sight. I did not feel that it was secure enough.
I just took some aluminum sheet metal and made a sleeve to go around the barrel. It is a very tight fit now and it tapers to increase the shoulder diameter over the chamber where the bull barrel touches. Next I think I am going to drill and tap the bull barrel on the thick end in a cross pattern with 4x screws so the the bull barrel will be attached to the the barrel direct. I believe the bull barrel should be secure between the inner sleeve creating a tight fit and the screws pinning it to the barrel direct. The flash hider will also cover the screws so they won't be seen.
I have also added 3x more magnets to the sight. I did not feel that it was secure enough.
I just took some aluminum sheet metal and made a sleeve to go around the barrel. It is a very tight fit now and it tapers to increase the shoulder diameter over the chamber where the bull barrel touches. Next I think I am going to drill and tap the bull barrel on the thick end in a cross pattern with 4x screws so the the bull barrel will be attached to the the barrel direct. I believe the bull barrel should be secure between the inner sleeve creating a tight fit and the screws pinning it to the barrel direct. The flash hider will also cover the screws so they won't be seen.
mptachenko
Active Member
I just saw your last post when I posted. Where is the video you are taking about?
Thanks
Thanks
scottjua
Master Member
I caution you against the set screws idea. I tried that and all it did was tear the crap out of the barrel when it still loved backward. Your shin may work but my first attempt at a whim didn't. Also with set screws. I just ended up doing damage.
Also so youlld need it removable for cleaning so unless you mill the flat to match the natural barrel flat.
The show was on the outdoor channel. I think their site has the episode or part of it. The show is called shootout lane
Also so youlld need it removable for cleaning so unless you mill the flat to match the natural barrel flat.
The show was on the outdoor channel. I think their site has the episode or part of it. The show is called shootout lane
Here's a glimpse of the show... http://outdoorchannel.com/showvideos.aspx?show-id=24713&pid=Xf5axGnvVu_y
mptachenko
Active Member
It almost seems like the best thing to is to weld it in place and then mill the bottom off!
scottjua
Master Member
only problem with that is adding more weight. It'll be your enemy with cycling... unless you already have it reliable. It'll take a lot of metal to fill that space enough to mill nicely too.
I hope I'm trying to help and not make it harder for you. There's no one way to do it... or best way really... just whatever you can make work.
I hope I'm trying to help and not make it harder for you. There's no one way to do it... or best way really... just whatever you can make work.
mptachenko
Active Member
I appreciate guidance from someone who has done this before. I thought it was going to be more straight forward.
So in relation to weight, did you end up using the aluminum or steel barrel sleeve? I have been working with the steel sleeve and the aluminum flash hider. Did you get it reliable with the steel sleeve? Did replacing the recoil and/or follower spring help? There was a C-95 carbine that Mauser made with a really long barrel so I would not have thought that weight would make such a difference in cycling.
The ESB version would be so much easier! It's just not near as cool.
So in relation to weight, did you end up using the aluminum or steel barrel sleeve? I have been working with the steel sleeve and the aluminum flash hider. Did you get it reliable with the steel sleeve? Did replacing the recoil and/or follower spring help? There was a C-95 carbine that Mauser made with a really long barrel so I would not have thought that weight would make such a difference in cycling.
The ESB version would be so much easier! It's just not near as cool.
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scottjua
Master Member
I use the steel BB for looks and strength, but AL flash hiders... the steel just won't work reliably... too much weight.
I don't know how mauser overcame that with the long barrel. Surely they did something internally with springs.
I have my ESB live fire, and it WAS easier once I figured out how to have a removable FH. I had zero cycling issues.
I don't know how mauser overcame that with the long barrel. Surely they did something internally with springs.
I have my ESB live fire, and it WAS easier once I figured out how to have a removable FH. I had zero cycling issues.
mptachenko
Active Member
I did not like the idea of having the BB permanent but I am starting to lean that way. I am thinking of combining most everything I have tried so far in addition to epoxy as you mentioned. "Too great I think, the Forces are."
mptachenko
Active Member
I have gotten as far as I can until I get the scope and scope mount. Hopefully I will get them in the next couple weeks, but we shall see. I will put the plastic grill on for live shooting but the metal looks a lot better so I will probably use it for display. Also the sight is removable with the magnets so here is a picture with and without the sight.
mptachenko
Active Member
I got the bull barrel on and the flash hider mounted. I then ran about 15 rounds through it. To my delight, everything is still rock solid! I also fired a couple tracers and got some pictures you guys should enjoy.
I plan on doing some kind of video when I get the whole thing done. I am still just waiting on the scope.
I plan on doing some kind of video when I get the whole thing done. I am still just waiting on the scope.
thats one of the coolest things I've ever seen!
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