ROGUE ONE K-2SO Puppet Build

Thanks!

Here in California i've seen a Grevious puppet done before, using his cloak to hide the puppeteer. K-2SO is so new we have yet to see him done anywhere. But that doesn't stop some of us from trying to make him a reality.

OH YEAH, I saw that guy one time online! I plan to go to more conventions here in Central Florida, where right now I'm an hour away from DisneyWorld ironically lol
Maybe I'll see some more puppet suits at this year's MegaCon!
 
It's been difficult to find good conditions to cut foam and apply glue with all of the rain we've been getting in California this week. But I had a breakthrough today that will put me back on track. A good friend of mine has given me an extended loan of his bandsaw! Now I can cut out my joint pucks, and do many shaping cuts that I couldn't do with just a razor blade.


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It has an ingenious wheeled base that can drop down to lock the corners into place. I can't wait to fire this up and start cutting foam. Tomorrow i'll glue together the sandwich layers of the joint pucks and template out the rest of the feet. I've also moved my deadline up two weeks to April 1st. I'm going to try to get K-2SO ready for his first con. We shall see if I can make it.

Keep building

-Darren
 
I'll be cutting and gluing foam tonight. Might livestream on twitch, we'll see. https://www.twitch.tv/drscifi
But I just wanted to take a moment and thank everyone who has posted encouraging words on this build. I just can't wait to take K2 out and see the look on kids faces.
And someone needs to start building K2's brother, I can't be the only one with this droid around. The world needs a good dose of salty droid.

-Darren
 
Looking forward to seeing this project finished.

i was thinking what you said about the guy hiding in the cape of the Grievous puppet. Maybe you need to dress as Cassian and walk behind K-2SO.
 
Time for another update! T-8 Saturdays until my April 1st self-imposed deadline :eek

A new exciting piece came today. A micro wifi camera for my POV system. Purchased from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IR2AFNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This little guy is exactly what I need. It has a 4 hour battery but that can be extended with a cell phone usb charger. It offers a self generated wifi network that I can connect an ipod touch or ipad mini to for my screen. I'm planning on mounting it either inside his eye or in the cheek greeblies.

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Pretty clear image for wifi transmission. It creates it's own password protected network for me to connect to. And can even record or capture stills to the ipad.
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Here is the box it came in but I also put a link above to the exact model I purchased. Only cost $28~
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Now most of my progress has been on the joint pucks. I thoroughly mapped out exactly how much area I needed cut up into foam and how thick I was building up to. This ended up using my entire 2' x 5' 10mm foam sheet and I'm still a little short for the center pieces for the knees. Hopefully the 8mm foam will stretch farther as it covers the bones instead of having to make up thickness.
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Measure twice, cut once.
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The largest pieces will be for the outer knee pucks. 5" wide and 50mm (5 layers) thick. This block will make 4 of them.
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90% of the puck blanks are ready to be glued. I worked very hard to make sure I didn't waste any foam. Speaking of foam, this is from TNT Cosplay Supply.
http://tntcosplaysupply.com/store/p29/EVA-_38_Foam.html Which is great for it's low price and being smooth on both sides.

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I coated the joining sides with barge contact cement.
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And left the pieces pressed together for a few hours while they dried.
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The trickest part was the large 5 layer pieces. Had to glue 2 pieces together (x2) then coat the center slice on both sides and sandwich it all together.
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I livestreamed on my twitch channel while working on the glue. Had fun talking about the process and my design. I plan on doing this more through the rest of the build. https://www.twitch.tv/drscifi Follow me here on twitch for future broadcasts.
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I punched out some of my colored floor foam for an adhesive test with the barge. I needed to see if it would work between the pipe PVC and the foam.
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Once the glue dried as it should these were sufficiently sturdy enough for me to use Barge contact cement on the inner discs that will support the outer skin foam.
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I'm also working a lot on templates. Sketched out the dimensions for the back cog and bar panel. I'll mount this on corner magnets so I can remove it to access the internal electronics such as the speaker aker, the eye light batteries and cameras.
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These wireless base station antenna will be used for K-2SO's back antenna.
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It feels like his abs and hips are too small but I think once he's put together it will all balance out. That is my greatest fear is I'll build a part and it will not feel in scale with the rest of the droid.
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I won't count the hours i've spent staring at K2's but.
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I'm also ordering a scalloped blade for my borrowed band saw.
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I'm getting it from McMaster-Carr. Which if you've never heard of is an INCREDIBLE site for parts, tools, just about anything.
Just go check it out for an hour or 3, i'll wait. https://www.mcmaster.com
I saw on a Tested video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuBo_lHvgjQ that a scalloped blade is best for cutting through foam and not leaving a rough edge.

Thank's @Frank Ippolito and @nchan for the info.

I'm ball parking getting the skin done by the end of February so I can focus on sealing, paint and weathering in March. And still need to 3D Print the head.

More updates coming next week.

Keep making

-Darren
 

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It's been a while since I posted. But I was waiting on my scallop bandsaw blade to cut the foam, and I'm so glad I waited. It was difficult to be patient and wait for the proper tools. I really wanted to start cutting out my joint pucks but I think I would have ruined them with the wood bandsaw blade.

I templated out based on my joint plans which you saw in my last post.
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Again drawing on the book wrapping paper which had a 1/2" grid on it. I made the Knee, Elbow, Ankle and Wrist templates.
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Here I'm making sure my 2" mirrors will fit inside the foam cut outs to create the "hollow" effect. Same for all of the joints. I have 2" mirrors for the smaller three and 2.5" mirrors for the knees.
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I traced everything out using silver sharpie on my foam stacks I glued earlier. Each stack is made out of 10mm foam layers joined together with Barge contact cement. By using the templates as a mask All I need to do is remove the silver edge to be right along my cut line.

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Again repeating the process for the wrist, ankle, elbow and knee. The ones I crossed out the middle circle is to remind me not to cut out the inner circle. These are the 40mm blanks that will be trimmed around the spider joint.
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Cutting day is here! I've changed the wood saw blade out for my scallop blade. That was a harrowing event. Always respect your power tools for the moment you don't they will hurt you. I made sure the saw was unplugged and followed the manual exactly to add the blade and calibrate it.

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Just image its a self-cutting knife on repeat forever! Don't get your fingers near this.
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This shows the difference between the two bandsaw blades I have. The lower was using the wood blade, the top using the foam scallop blade. Night and Day!
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I cut pucks from 20mm to 50mm, being sure to remove all of the silver mask to make the circles the right diameter. This is two 40mm pucks and they came out great. They look like an 80mm stack cut at the same time!
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And repeat over and over for each one. Here are the wrists.
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This is a knee or elbow. They are only 1/2" difference so hard to tell.
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I live streamed some of my work on Twitch.tv/drscifi. And will continue to do so as the project continues.
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Now with everything cut out I trimmed the middle out of a few end pieces for tests. I still need to cut 90% of them out but I may drill out some of it. I need to find a balance between the bandsaw and sanding. These are not sanded on the inside yet but I want them to be relatively smooth.

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This is the first look at the "hollow" effect I'm going for with the mirrors. I'll still need to see it with the whole arm in place but I think the illusion will work. Or at least look better than solid joints.
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This is the ankle. You can see the 20mm end caps with the 40mm center blank. I need to work out the angles each joint will move between before I trim the center blank to allow for the movement.
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I've added a spacer on the knees for this picture as I haven't made the center 40mm blanks for the knees yet. I ran out of 10mm foam so I need to order some more.
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Here's the elbow pice placed over the spider joint.
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I'm holding the 3 slices together and the middle one is jutting out but you get the idea of how the joint will look. I'm very happy with how these pices came out.
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My next design step is for the control linkages for the hands. I believe I will make these out of mdf or wood. This sketch isn't quite to scale but outlines how the finger tube lines will run from my glove to the hands. I want to keep as much of this hidden inside the arm. I also need to finish/start his hands.
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Tomorrow is a holiday so I'm going to try to get a lot more done on either hand design/construction or getting the feet templated, cut, formed and starting on the legs.
But still, patience. I don't want to rush even though I'm on a deadline. He will get done when he gets done.
I also need to send my 3d head files to my friends with printers to get that moving.

40 days left!

Thanks again everyone for your support of my K-2SO puppet build. Please follow along at https://www.twitch.tv/drscifi if you want to watch while I work on K2.

-Darren
 
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HANDS! So in my research I've found two designs for K-2SO's hands. The first I'll call the prop hand and you see this design in the arm extensions Alan had on set. You will also see this on the black series toy and the big figs. It has a more sharp angle wrist area with a boxy palm. This also has the oversized thumb coming up from way in the back of the palm.

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The other version you see I'll call the CG hand and is what K-2SO has in the actual film. His fingers are a little more proportional.
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You can also see that his thumb is a more realistic length with the wrist area being curved and less boxy. There is also a rectangular panel on the back of the hand with an oval towards the wrist. This is the version I will be making for the puppet.
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I sketched out the dimensions on my gridded paper. You can see how I started with the prop hand design before switching to the CG hand design. A 1" pipe T will be the base of the fingers.

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The fingers are made up of nested PVC pipe. It is called sharkbite pipe at Home Depot and is very thin. I didn't know HD carried pipe this thin until researching it. It's a little hard to find but found on the same aisle as the bigger PVC pipe. The fingers uses 1/2" finger spans with 1/4" knuckle pieces. Now this is the measurement of the inner diameter, so the overall size is not what is printed. They ended up being the following dimensions.

1/4" pipe .24" inner / .375" outer
1/2" pipe .84" inner / .608" outer

The 1/2" pipe gets a 45*ish cut on both ends to allow the 1/4" pipe to pivot.
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I cut out the finger spans. Here are the measurements of each segment. The thumb will be 2" pieces, plus the longer mounting base that connects it back to the wrist pipe.

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I labeled everything by Letter/Number to keep it all organized.
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I first made the "C" middle finger as it was the longest. All cuts are just eyeballed.
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A bacon cooking tray works great to keep the parts from rolling away on me.
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I picked up a spool of 16 Gauge wire to act as the hinge points.
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This was a thrown together test digit. With the elastic down the back to open the finger and nylon cord down the inside to pull it closed.
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When you have to make a lot of something, make a jig. This helped me stay consistent on the cuts.
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After fitting one half of the 1/4" pipe I trimmed it to size and took the corner off to let it pivot more.
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Everything is temporary as I won't be able to do final assembly until the whole arm is pieced together. The reason for this is when I cut the tendon cord It will need to reach all the way from K2's fingertips to my control glove fingertips. And I don't know that exact distance yet.
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1 finger down, 9 to go.
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I've finished the 4 main digits of the right hand. I've learned a lot. It's very difficult to keep the fingers straight and not crooked. I need to remake some of digit "C" to keep it straight. I also shortened the 1/4" pieces a little to make sure the fingers don't over extend open or curl up. But I'm overall very happy with how it's coming.
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I'd be remiss if I didn't mention a fellow cosplayer and maker for introducing me to this design. https://www.instagram.com/jechts/ is using this technique for a giant pair of videogame character hands. https://www.instagram.com/p/BPYgDzGDkyZ/?taken-by=jechts He also pointed me to a youtube video by Indy Mogul of a prop build he did for the hands. These sources were very helpful in designing K2's digits.


I'm 35 days out at this point and i've started to set some deadlines for each remaining weekend to keep myself on track. I only have 5 weekends and I can't use all of them to finish K-2SO. I'll be focusing on his feet and legs this first weekend as they don't require much innovation, just patterns, cutting and gluing. Now that my joint pucks are done I can keep those dimensions in line.

I've been patient as I work along, doing things well and not rushing. But I need to step it up like I did while working on my Star Wars Stormtrooper armor. I worked 2 solid months doing at least SOMETHING every night to get that done. This project will require the same dedication to complete.

So expect more posts here on the RPF and more livestreams on twitch.tv/drscifi as I work to finish K-2SO.

Oh, and go check out my friend @GEEK1138 K-2SO statue. http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=271894It looks AMAZING! Oh what I wouldn't give for a 3D printer.

Also, this build thread has reached over 10,000 views! We could buy our own ship for that!
Thank you everyone for your support and encouragement.

-Darren

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Aaaaand now I'm going in a new direction with K-2SO's hands.
I came across AlphaTech686 build of Grommash from WOW. He's working on fingers using linkages instead of tendons.
I like the idea a lot. I'll still have a tendon from my control glove to the K2 hand but the closing of the fingers will be done by linkages.

Here's some test footage of his linkage design.

The Grommash finger side. Using 1/8" PVC sheet with Chicago screws.
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The Grommash finger edge.
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For the longest digit on the hand I'm going with 3" - 2" - 2" for the lengths between knuckles.
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I decided to make a foam board prototype to test the concept before I invest in plastic sheeting.
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Finger digit layers.
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Blueprint and prototype. This is very rough with just bent wire for the joint. The final fingers will have Chicago screws.
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I need to adjust the linkage bars to allow the finger to bend more. I believe it has to do with the ratio of the pivot joint to the linkage joint.
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Plan A PVC pipe and Plan B PVC sheet.
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So far I think this is the better way to go. I won't even need to add too much foam to the fingers as they already look very robotic. K2's fingers are more squarish anyway, and I would need to turn the cylinders into more square shapes to make them work anyway.

Always continue your research into your project. You never know when you'll be making changes.

- Darren
35 Days

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Cool! The linked finger seems promising!

I want this idea, it seems like it will look more accurate.

Wow. Impressive. Seems like fingers are really complicated no matter which direction you go.


I really like how the hands are coming together. Picking up the plastic sheeting from Home Depot today. I found a 1/16th thickness so that should help keep them thin with all of those layers and linkages. The tricky thing is getting the angles of the pivots down. My prototype was half successful but without the right angles it won't bend right and close.

Today will be getting more materials. I also want to finally finish the feet patterns.

-Darren
34 Days
 
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Curious: Have you considered using 3D printed hands? I don't like 3D prints for a lot of the purposes they are applied to, but this sort of intricate linkage seems right up their alley.

If you don't have one, I know there are public libraries that sometimes offer them. Plus friendly local RPFers who might be willing to help. :)
 
Curious: Have you considered using 3D printed hands? I don't like 3D prints for a lot of the purposes they are applied to, but this sort of intricate linkage seems right up their alley.

If you don't have one, I know there are public libraries that sometimes offer them. Plus friendly local RPFers who might be willing to help. :)

I've thought of it. But at this point it would take me longer to design and find someone to print then to make out of the pvc board.
I say that now, we will see after I've made 1 full finger.

I'm going back and forth between printing the head and making it out of foam. Might try foam first.
 
Finally some progress on the feet. I've progressed more on actually getting foam on the skeleton in the past 24 hours than the past 24 days. The slowest part of this phase is making the templates. Cutting them out of the foam is easy (thanks to my awesome bandsaw). But making them takes time.

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After laying out one-half of the foot walls I mirrored it to create the whole piece.
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This was scored and had the back edges cut along the folds.
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The tricky part is to make each edge line up with the foot plate.
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Everything is lining up nice. Here is where the ankle joint puck will go.
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I found if I reversed the washer in the joints to the bolt side instead of the nut side it has a lower profile and doesn't stick out.
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This is important when mounting the side pucks with their mirrors. I have a flat surface to adhere to.
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I realized I didn't need to cut out the whole circle for the lower ankle plate.
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By just cutting out a half moon it has a nice snug fit to the joint.
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This is one of my favorite shots of the entire build.
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The outer pucks will be glued to the bottom plate and have a few mm clearance from the top plate.
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I added two stops with screws to keep the ankle from bending beyond where I want it to. If it goes too far the foam edges will smash into each other and damage the leg. I will do this with all of the puck joints. Ankles, Knees, Elbows. The wrists won't rotate on that axis.
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I moved all of my K2 parts down to our single car garage. Almost like having a workshop.
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Fabricated the lace covers top piece of the feet. I won't be scoring the outside edges of the folds this time. I want to see what it looks like as I can't take that action back.
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The lace covers are a little thick but when the toe part is joined I think it will balance out.
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Put some hidden pink foam inside the walls for strength. These are now glued together. That is a harrowing part of any project. No Take Backsies.
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Even more nerve-wracking was inserting the joint in. The PVC is held by friction but the lower joint plate is glued with contact cement to the foot.
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With the lace cover on.
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I've templated out the top, side, and bottom of the toe part. Just need to cut it out and glue it together and the feet will be done.
Oh, and finish the ankle joints.
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I am very happy with my progress made today. If I can have a dozen or so days like today I should have K-2SO done on time. I need to put at least 2 hours into him every night to feel comfortable with my progress. I only have 5 of my weekend days available between today and April 1st.

27 days left

- Darren
 
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