Bandai 1/72 PG Millennium Falcon (also the Revell Germany rebox)
- Thread starter Jaitea
- Start date
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Thanks to the suggestion, I tried bending the hull plating edges.
Bending the edges were straight forward, except for the one huge crush, which I altered considerably from the prop.
If one wants to do this damage as faithful to the original as possible, It might be better to do the surgery before assembling the hull.
I think I am the very first in this forum to have got hold of this kit, but I am still painting the underside.
I am really amazed, not only in the quality, but also the speed at which some members of this forum have executed their paint job.
Thanks to the suggestion, I tried bending the hull plating edges.
Bending the edges were straight forward, except for the one huge crush, which I altered considerably from the prop.
If one wants to do this damage as faithful to the original as possible, It might be better to do the surgery before assembling the hull.
I think I am the very first in this forum to have got hold of this kit, but I am still painting the underside.
I am really amazed, not only in the quality, but also the speed at which some members of this forum have executed their paint job.
Murph
Active Member
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Your patience is paying off though, that looks incredible!
I've had the kit since the day it went up on Amazon (which really sucks since it has been $50 cheaper since basically the next day after that!!) and I've gotten barely anything done on it. I keep thinking I'm gonna have a good 8 hours to work on it one day and it never ends up happening- it's driving me crazy.
Your patience is paying off though, that looks incredible!
I've had the kit since the day it went up on Amazon (which really sucks since it has been $50 cheaper since basically the next day after that!!) and I've gotten barely anything done on it. I keep thinking I'm gonna have a good 8 hours to work on it one day and it never ends up happening- it's driving me crazy.
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
-Black automotive primer
-Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White base coat
-I start by airbrushing the obvious grey and red panels (I mixed my own colors)
-liquid latex mask for paint chipping.
-I'll tone down the reds a little by going back over with my base coat color through the airbrush very lightly. You can see where ILM did this also on the 5ft. (See photo)
-For the various other colored panels I used oils. I find if I thin them enough I can get the subtle translucent feel I'm looking for. (See photo) I seal the oils with clear coat or it will be until July until it's dry. The biggest mistake I see is when some of these subtle panels are painted too heavy. The panels start to look more like a chess board if you're not careful. If you accidentally go too heavy you can lightly hit them with your base coat to tone them down.
-I then did all the little black and orange tick marks with a fine art pen.
-I use various techniques for the steaks. For the dark ones I use the post-it note method with the airbrush and extremely thinned Tamiya Smoke. This leaves the steaks pretty sharp more like the 32inch, so I soften them up by lightly going back over them with the Tamiya weathering kit. (See photo) I also use them to make lighter steaks. Look at the reference there are dark and there are really light streaks. I really like this effect and try to emulate this. There are some very small oil streaks on the top of the hull that I used the art pen to achieve
-I use oils for the variations of dark and orangish rusts along the hull and side walls. Same color but based on thickness changes the color. I like doing this because rust isn't just one shade.
-I hit it with the dremel for extra scratches and chips. There are reference where you can see black under the paint. If I accidentally go through the primer layer I just take the art pen or oils and color it black in the groove.
- The 1gazillion decals is what I hated worst. Some I can't even see.
- sealed it all with a clear coat.
Would love to try the ArchiveX paints someday. Just can't afford them right now.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the compliment! I know you've asked a coupe times how people are going about painting. Here is my 2 cents.I'd really love to hear some details on how you all achieved your finishes - they look so good! I think I have a pretty solid idea of how I'm approaching mine but I'm always interested in hearing about how others go about it, especially the masters posting in this thread. Any chance of that? I could literally read it all day
-Black automotive primer
-Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White base coat
-I start by airbrushing the obvious grey and red panels (I mixed my own colors)
-liquid latex mask for paint chipping.
-I'll tone down the reds a little by going back over with my base coat color through the airbrush very lightly. You can see where ILM did this also on the 5ft. (See photo)
-For the various other colored panels I used oils. I find if I thin them enough I can get the subtle translucent feel I'm looking for. (See photo) I seal the oils with clear coat or it will be until July until it's dry. The biggest mistake I see is when some of these subtle panels are painted too heavy. The panels start to look more like a chess board if you're not careful. If you accidentally go too heavy you can lightly hit them with your base coat to tone them down.
-I then did all the little black and orange tick marks with a fine art pen.
-I use various techniques for the steaks. For the dark ones I use the post-it note method with the airbrush and extremely thinned Tamiya Smoke. This leaves the steaks pretty sharp more like the 32inch, so I soften them up by lightly going back over them with the Tamiya weathering kit. (See photo) I also use them to make lighter steaks. Look at the reference there are dark and there are really light streaks. I really like this effect and try to emulate this. There are some very small oil streaks on the top of the hull that I used the art pen to achieve
-I use oils for the variations of dark and orangish rusts along the hull and side walls. Same color but based on thickness changes the color. I like doing this because rust isn't just one shade.
-I hit it with the dremel for extra scratches and chips. There are reference where you can see black under the paint. If I accidentally go through the primer layer I just take the art pen or oils and color it black in the groove.
- The 1gazillion decals is what I hated worst. Some I can't even see.
- sealed it all with a clear coat.
Would love to try the ArchiveX paints someday. Just can't afford them right now.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Last edited:
astroboy
Master Member
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
I can't wait
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You and I definitely use the same process!
I can't wait
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Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
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That's probably why I like your 1/144 Falcon so much! [emoji16]
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Murph
Active Member
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Thanks for that, kokkari, I appreciate the detail. That's basically the exact plan I have for mine as well, same way I do all my SW models, and I'm realizing I learned it from older posts you and astroboy and the other guys have made, so THANKS again!
Thanks for that, kokkari, I appreciate the detail. That's basically the exact plan I have for mine as well, same way I do all my SW models, and I'm realizing I learned it from older posts you and astroboy and the other guys have made, so THANKS again!
astroboy
Master Member
Toadmeister
Sr Member
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
A glossy surface is preferred for decalling and a final flat coat can seal it and your weathering all in. On car or aircraft models with a smooth surface, this might be necessary to pull off the illusion that the markings were painted on.
In the case of my Star Wars models, which feature greebled surfaces and a worn finishes, I rarely have to do this. I also paint my major markings (red and grey panels) which further reduce any such need.
In the case of the original ILM models, kit bashing included decals for several stencil markings but I couldn't tell you if they bothered with gloss/clear coats.
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No, you don't have to.
A glossy surface is preferred for decalling and a final flat coat can seal it and your weathering all in. On car or aircraft models with a smooth surface, this might be necessary to pull off the illusion that the markings were painted on.
In the case of my Star Wars models, which feature greebled surfaces and a worn finishes, I rarely have to do this. I also paint my major markings (red and grey panels) which further reduce any such need.
In the case of the original ILM models, kit bashing included decals for several stencil markings but I couldn't tell you if they bothered with gloss/clear coats.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
What Toadmeister said. I had the same question. I did not put a gloss coat down on mine and they adhered just fine without any silvering. After I applied my clear coat at the end there's no shein either
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What Toadmeister said. I had the same question. I did not put a gloss coat down on mine and they adhered just fine without any silvering. After I applied my clear coat at the end there's no shein either
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Neverendingmods
New Member
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Hey, folks -- I wanna see what you guys think of this. . . As much as I love the paint and weathering that ILM did on the 5-footer, I'm gonna go for a little more of an AFV modelling approach. We all know that there couldn't be any reflective elements or surfaces on the model, 'cause that'd mess up the compositing. But the sets show canopy glass, and the interiors sure have a lot of bare metal details. So I plan on having a few rusty-metallic, not just rusty-white spots here and there on mine. Not to contradict anything, but the bring my Falcon into line with real-world weathering I've seen out there. I've been taking pictures for years, building up a reference collection, to be able to do just this. Here are a couple of pics:
So, I wanna have rust and soot, etc., where it is on the 5-footer, BUT, I want it to look like it does here, with lots of speckles, gradations, etc., and a little pencil-graphite or gunmetal paint right in the center -- just a hint -- to imply metal. AND: though it'll seem like blasphemy to some, I plan on keeping the weathering "toned down," to reflect my view of the "real thing." Now, in my defense, I'm presenting an article from FSM about the U-2 built for "Thirteen Days." They point out that the plane was deliberately "over-weathered," for the detail to read on screen as it rushes past. And this was shot outdoors, all in-camera, with no compositing (I think). My interpretation -- this is just my interpretation -- is that ILM did the same on the SW miniatures. They were meant to convey an illusion on film, _and_ through a few passes of '70s compositing. Here's the article:
I understand that most of you will disagree, BUT, please keep it nice!
Hey, folks -- I wanna see what you guys think of this. . . As much as I love the paint and weathering that ILM did on the 5-footer, I'm gonna go for a little more of an AFV modelling approach. We all know that there couldn't be any reflective elements or surfaces on the model, 'cause that'd mess up the compositing. But the sets show canopy glass, and the interiors sure have a lot of bare metal details. So I plan on having a few rusty-metallic, not just rusty-white spots here and there on mine. Not to contradict anything, but the bring my Falcon into line with real-world weathering I've seen out there. I've been taking pictures for years, building up a reference collection, to be able to do just this. Here are a couple of pics:
So, I wanna have rust and soot, etc., where it is on the 5-footer, BUT, I want it to look like it does here, with lots of speckles, gradations, etc., and a little pencil-graphite or gunmetal paint right in the center -- just a hint -- to imply metal. AND: though it'll seem like blasphemy to some, I plan on keeping the weathering "toned down," to reflect my view of the "real thing." Now, in my defense, I'm presenting an article from FSM about the U-2 built for "Thirteen Days." They point out that the plane was deliberately "over-weathered," for the detail to read on screen as it rushes past. And this was shot outdoors, all in-camera, with no compositing (I think). My interpretation -- this is just my interpretation -- is that ILM did the same on the SW miniatures. They were meant to convey an illusion on film, _and_ through a few passes of '70s compositing. Here's the article:
I understand that most of you will disagree, BUT, please keep it nice!
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Why would anyone disagree? It's your model, not anyone else's. If you want to paint polka dots on it and install disco lights, why not? It all depends on your end goal.
And you do have a point, in that movie-aged props and models can tend to look a little phoney in-person, sort of like the way theatrical makeup looks really exaggerated in person. The other year I saw the Russian-built Antonov aircraft that stood in as a South American airplane for the last Indiana Jones movie. It was aged with rust-coloured paint, and it looked a bit over the top viewed close up.
Though having said that, I was pretty impressed by the ILM models on display at the "Identities" exhibition. Even the 32" Falcon, which I've never really liked very much, looked pretty great in person.
I understand that most of you will disagree, BUT, please keep it nice!
Why would anyone disagree? It's your model, not anyone else's.
If you want to paint polka dots on it and install disco lights, why not? It all depends on your end goal.And you do have a point, in that movie-aged props and models can tend to look a little phoney in-person, sort of like the way theatrical makeup looks really exaggerated in person. The other year I saw the Russian-built Antonov aircraft that stood in as a South American airplane for the last Indiana Jones movie. It was aged with rust-coloured paint, and it looked a bit over the top viewed close up.
Though having said that, I was pretty impressed by the ILM models on display at the "Identities" exhibition. Even the 32" Falcon, which I've never really liked very much, looked pretty great in person.
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
I find your approach very interesting.
After all, filming miniatures are not works of fine art. They were built under many restrictions and constraints; budget, schedule, technical etc. And as you say, they were intermediate products to generate film, not display models. So I think it is fascinating as well as natural to imagine and pursue, what the ILM modellers would have built had they the liberty to exercise any technique, to create models to be primarily on direct display.
I find your approach very interesting.
After all, filming miniatures are not works of fine art. They were built under many restrictions and constraints; budget, schedule, technical etc. And as you say, they were intermediate products to generate film, not display models. So I think it is fascinating as well as natural to imagine and pursue, what the ILM modellers would have built had they the liberty to exercise any technique, to create models to be primarily on direct display.
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Neverendingmods: Yes, it's your model; do what you like, I agree with nkg. Producing a model of what the "real" Falcon would have looked like seems an entirely legitimate approach. As Lab says, the original model was built to be filmed and the conditions imposed on that model and its filming (lights, movement, blur, camera settings, compositing etc) simply don't apply to a "museum" type static display piece.
The subject of deliberate over weathering has been discussed before as has "correct" colours etc and I think (hope) that it is accepted that there is no sole correct approach. Arguably, the least contentious approach is to build a model of the five foot filming miniature ( no glazing, no engine detail, basic cockpit etc) but there is still a myriad of choices to be made, few of which have a definitive answer.
How did a freighter from a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away become covered with logos, trademarks and notices from the twentieth century of an utterly insignificant little blue green planet in the uncharted backwaters of the unfashionable end of the western spiral arm of the Galaxy ?
Neverendingmods: Yes, it's your model; do what you like, I agree with nkg. Producing a model of what the "real" Falcon would have looked like seems an entirely legitimate approach. As Lab says, the original model was built to be filmed and the conditions imposed on that model and its filming (lights, movement, blur, camera settings, compositing etc) simply don't apply to a "museum" type static display piece.
The subject of deliberate over weathering has been discussed before as has "correct" colours etc and I think (hope) that it is accepted that there is no sole correct approach. Arguably, the least contentious approach is to build a model of the five foot filming miniature ( no glazing, no engine detail, basic cockpit etc) but there is still a myriad of choices to be made, few of which have a definitive answer.
How did a freighter from a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away become covered with logos, trademarks and notices from the twentieth century of an utterly insignificant little blue green planet in the uncharted backwaters of the unfashionable end of the western spiral arm of the Galaxy ?
Neverendingmods
New Member
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Hey, guys, THANKS, really! I'll post photos soon. . .
Murph -- I agree. I like the grilles! They've been one of my favorite features since I was a kid. It's satisfying to re-create that look with the photoetch.
Why would anyone disagree? It's your model, not anyone else's.
And you do have a point, in that movie-aged props and models can tend to look a little phoney in-person, sort of like the way theatrical makeup looks really exaggerated in person. The other year I saw the Russian-built Antonov aircraft that stood in as a South American airplane for the last Indiana Jones movie. It was aged with rust-coloured paint, and it looked a bit over the top viewed close up.
Though having said that, I was pretty impressed by the ILM models on display at the "Identities" exhibition. Even the 32" Falcon, which I've never really liked very much, looked pretty great in person.
Hey, guys, THANKS, really! I'll post photos soon. . .
Murph -- I agree. I like the grilles! They've been one of my favorite features since I was a kid. It's satisfying to re-create that look with the photoetch.
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