MonsieurTox
Master Member
Re: Y pattern
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Hi Julien.
Maybe I've missed the info but what Filament are you using.... ABS?
No that's too toxic, I'm using NGen filament by Colorfabb
Any warping problem? Do you have to use blue tape or Kapton tape?
And is it easy to sand or a nightmare like PLA?
CONFIRM OR DENY:
I've collected 50+ kits for building a studio scale Y-Wing, identified most, but having a hard time confirming or denying whether the following are actually in/on the Y-Wing. Can anyone Confirm or Deny the following:
1/72 Hasegawa GMC CCKW-353 Gasoline Truck
1/72 Tamiya Vosper Fast Patrol Boat
1/200 Nichimo Submarine T-19
The Yamato -- it's there, but which one is it: 1/500 scale, 1/600 scale, or 1/700 scale? (I'm under the impression that it's 1/500)
AMT 1/24 Fruehauf Tanker (on the Y-Wing, or only on the Falcon?)
AMT 1/24 Kennwort Aerodyne (same question - Y-Wing or Falcon only?)
Bandai 1/48 Cessna, Piper Super Cub 18, and Beech Bonanza V35 -- got all three, but WHAT parts (if any) are used from them?
In several cases, I seem to be running into what I would call "suitable alternates/substitutes" for when the true original greeblies can't be found.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
SK
No warping (it can happen but in any case it'll be less than ABS... And PLA ).
I print directly on a hot bed,
Easier to sans than PLA, water and moisture resistant, higher transition temperature (around 90degC)
Resistant to any kind of known solvents to date (and that's probably and issue for some, cant use solvent to bond parts, only CA works).
Styrene free, so less toxic than ABS (that doesnt mean it is not at all) and virtually odorless (even less than PLA !).
Ive read awful review about it with scary pics of printed parts.
I don't get the same results, that's true it took me almost one hour to get my first print stick to the bed, I found that I have to increase from 107 to 140% the material flow for the first layer, that's the only way to get a good bond of the part to the bed. First layer printed at 255degC then 245 Degrees for the rest. It's recommanded by the manufacturer a range from 230 to 240, I dont recommand those, that doesnt work well.
Julien
That's really good info. I've been unsure whether to go with ABS or something else, and the NGen seems to have the right attributes. Which printer are you using?
CONFIRM OR DENY:
I've collected 50+ kits for building a studio scale Y-Wing, identified most, but having a hard time confirming or denying whether the following are actually in/on the Y-Wing. Can anyone Confirm or Deny the following:
1/72 Hasegawa GMC CCKW-353 Gasoline Truck
1/72 Tamiya Vosper Fast Patrol Boat
1/200 Nichimo Submarine T-19
The Yamato -- it's there, but which one is it: 1/500 scale, 1/600 scale, or 1/700 scale? (I'm under the impression that it's 1/500)
AMT 1/24 Fruehauf Tanker (on the Y-Wing, or only on the Falcon?)
AMT 1/24 Kennwort Aerodyne (same question - Y-Wing or Falcon only?)
Bandai 1/48 Cessna, Piper Super Cub 18, and Beech Bonanza V35 -- got all three, but WHAT parts (if any) are used from them?
In several cases, I seem to be running into what I would call "suitable alternates/substitutes" for when the true original greeblies can't be found.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
SK
Yes, the sidewall height looks perfect now!
May I ask how you built the CAD model, by drawing splines and connecting them to a surface model and afterwards adding the material thickness? And did you build the surface shape from the splines visible along the panel lines and edges, or did you "cut off" the mouth and rear side shape and the panel lines were projected onto the surface afterwards just fof visual purpose? And was the lower edge of the side panels modified with a variable edge fillet? It seems you have quite some CAD drawing skills. I should get back to practicing more...