Doctor Strange costume (Benedict Cumberbatch version) question

Nice work done by my seamstress letting out the sides of the under tunic using fabric taken from the costume pants and the over tunic using denim I found that matches well enough.

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Here are the indigo denim skinny jeans in my size I found on Amazon to replace the costume's pants shown under what's left of the original costume pants. The color matches perfectly in person but they have a slightly coarser weave.

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Here is the new belt (originally all brown) I bought (amazon, again) to replace the all black belt that comes with the costume. I dyed the center black to better match the screen-used belt. I plan to wear it as a separate belt rather than just as a portion attached to the wide leather(vinyl) belt.

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Here is the braided sling ring mounting cord I made to add to the costume's belt on the right side. It is just braided out cotton cord I bought at JoAnn Fabrics.

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I received my Killerbody Eye of Agamotto in the mail today and like Damezz said, the quality of this replica is just incredible. If I didn't know any better, I would've thought this was an eFX release, it's THAT good. The best part is, this cost me less than $90 shipped, talk about a steal! The amulet feels like it's made mostly of metal, as opposed to cold cast or plastic which is what I was expecting for the price. Even the necklace strap is really well crafted. This is my first replica prop purchase from Killerbody and probably won't be my last, starting to give that Mk7 costume a real hard look now :lol But you guys may want to start asking about their full Doctor Strange replica costume if this is how good their props are.
 
This week my KillerBody Eye Of Agamotto and Sling Ring(s) arrived, very well packaged.
I had already some other Chinese Eyes of Agamotto and a Sling Ring in my collection, but the quality of the Killerbody versions is way better...and bigger!

The Eye is about 9,5 centimeters wide and 3cm thick, which is much larger than the cheaper Chinese versions. It is metal (brass) and heavy, like 275grams.
The details are great, the fluorescent stone can be covered mechanically.


Thanks for posting this... I just got my tracking number this morning (after ordering it a month and a half ago) and I'm pretty excited for how well the managed to do the front. The only issue I see is that the cross-bars are supposed to be silver, which is an easy enough fix.
Little sad about the back, though. The back of the prop is pretty ornate and not really the same shape, even. May have to see if I can mod it.
 
The back of the prop is pretty ornate and not really the same shape, even. May have to see if I can mod it.

What is the back of the amulet supposed to look like? I see some people have an ornate design for their own builds on this thread, but not sure where they found that design, Art Of book maybe?
 
From the art book, I gathered that this is what the back looks like. No idea if they actually used this design in the final version. So that's what I made :)

I wonder how that company is able to make a profit selling metal versions of the Eye? When I looked into making Brass castings, it would cost around $30 just for the metal. Not including the entire price for loss-wax casting. Must be slave labor or aliens.
 

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What is the back of the amulet supposed to look like? I see some people have an ornate design for their own builds on this thread, but not sure where they found that design, Art Of book maybe?

The one the Prop Lord posted is pretty close, except the scaley bit isn't so prominent. It's just on the edge and, even then, not all the way round. It sort of pokes through the back at the edges.

I'm not sure what's in the Art Of book, but I've seen the prop in extreme detail. Benefit of working in film.
 
Finished lengthening and accurizing the Marvel licensed belt using some scrap vinyl, lots of heavy-duty Velcro and hot glue and Shapeways-printed belt clips.

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The one the Prop Lord posted is pretty close, except the scaley bit isn't so prominent. It's just on the edge and, even then, not all the way round. It sort of pokes through the back at the edges.

I'm not sure what's in the Art Of book, but I've seen the prop in extreme detail. Benefit of working in film.

Since you have had some access to the actual eye prop, can I ask if have you seen the belt? If so, what color is the ring-shaped "buckle?" A lot of the photos make it look silver with dark recesses. Some make the recesses look dark brown and some make it look like the recesses are just reflecting the dark belt. Some make the raised areas look to have a gold or coppery cast.

Any thoughts? Thanks!


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Details of the sling ring attachment points I added / modified to the Marvel-licensed belt:

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First, on the right, I added the braided cord I made by securing its center by passing a heavy cord through two holes punched through the belt in the correct position. The braided cord has a big knot on one end and a loop on the other. The looped end goes around the "waist" of the sling ring and then passes over the knot to secure it. I added a second knot made by tying multiple layers of cord around the braided cord to allow the loop to be a little tighter around the sling ring and hold it more securely.

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On the left side, I moved the leather loop and the larger D-ring it holds to the left side (the belt comes with two on the right and none on the left).
The problem is, if the adjustable slit in the sling ring is big enough to slip onto the D-ring, it is able to slip easily off again and get lost. The only way I could think to fix this was to use a Dremel sanding drum to grind the straight portion of the D-ring much narrower in both planes. Now that portion will fit through a narrow slit in the sling ring (adjustable by virtue of the soft base metal in which the sling rings were cast). Now you can rotate the D-ring 180° and the sling ring hangs safely from the thick, round portion of the D and the leather loop hides the ground-down straight portion.

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Details of the sling ring attachment points I added / modified to the Marvel-licensed belt:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170219/5eb29ad6e24d49543d3b8db284de6bb6.jpg

First, on the right, I added the braided cord I made by securing its center by passing a heavy cord through two holes punched through the belt in the correct position. The braided cord has a big knot on one end and a loop on the other. The looped end goes around the "waist" of the sling ring and then passes over the knot to secure it. I added a second knot made by tying multiple layers of cord around the braided cord to allow the loop to be a little tighter around the sling ring and hold it more securely.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170219/b2e0c8009c22b1371e015293a5f89560.jpg

On the left side, I moved the leather loop and the larger D-ring it holds to the left side (the belt comes with two on the right and none on the left).
The problem is, if the adjustable slit in the sling ring is big enough to slip onto the D-ring, it is able to slip easily off again and get lost. The only way I could think to fix this was to use a Dremel sanding drum to grind the straight portion of the D-ring much narrower in both planes. Now that portion will fit through a narrow slit in the sling ring (adjustable by virtue of the soft base metal in which the sling rings were cast). Now you can rotate the D-ring 180° and the sling ring hangs safely from the thick, round portion of the D and the leather loop hides the ground-down straight portion.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170219/41791f64a689e7789ec68e9985dfc7a5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170219/443a60ad8bad3bf6853959ca05319dab.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170219/72392b361225633709007153a6527714.jpg


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Here's an overall view showing the belt, the need for the left sling ring mount to move forward and the binding posts (Chicago screws) I used to hold the cape to the suspenders under the tunic (they pass through grommets in each layer in between) to distribute the weight of the cape and to better to appear that it is clinging to me and not just clipped to the overtunic.

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More about that system to follow.


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Here are the suspenders I made to solidly anchor the cape. There are four grommets corresponding to each of the four original cape clips: left and right shoulder and left and right triangular cape tip on the chest.

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The cotton webbing suspenders (minimal stretch) attach to the waist band of the pants, front and back, with suspender clips, that allow the length to be precisely adjusted.

The binder posts (Chicago screws) are chosen to be long enough to go through the suspenders, both tunic and the cape (3/4 " for me).

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Each of the tunics are then marked, punched and grommetted so that the holes all line up with those in the suspenders (take your time and try for as good an alignment as you can). Put the posts through and then mark, punch and grommet the cape, as well.

The last step is to apply fabric matching the cape to the heads of the screws with hot glue so that the heads are as inconspicuous as possible. If you apply the hot glue to the back of a large circle of fabric, then attach the screw head and trim slightly smaller after the glue cools, you'll have a clean edge that won't fray. The cape brooches will go over the anterior screws, which really helps.

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Thanks, Matt! Sure wish I could make it out there. If someone goes, please take a closeup of the big ring on the belt!


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