ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

If you look at the super high res of the boots, you can see an eyelet on the boot. I'm wondering if maybe they added the flaps onto the boots. I haven't seen any yet that have that fold across the front flap. I will keep looking, but I figured I would throw my thoughts out there to see what you all think.
 
If you look at the super high res of the boots, you can see an eyelet on the boot. I'm wondering if maybe they added the flaps onto the boots. I haven't seen any yet that have that fold across the front flap. I will keep looking, but I figured I would throw my thoughts out there to see what you all think.

Despite my previous musings on shearer's boots and the like, I think the boots are very standard lace-ups with a flap applied, as you say. I certainly think you'd have a better (and cheaper!) result buying something similar from army surplus and attaching a flap and some hardware, over trying to get a near match off-the-shelf.
 
I've been trying to work out how I would make a spring loaded baton, having 3D printed a prototype scale model. I went back the the video only to find the baton is actually a tonfa!I should have picked this up way earlier :facepalm The piece which looks like a flashlight (or some other utility) folds out to be a side handle when the top extends out.

You can see the side handle out here:

Screen Shot 2016-04-13 at 11.27.43 PM copy.png

... and the tonfa in action here:

Screen Shot 2016-04-13 at 11.26.33 PM.jpg

And here's a basic diagram of how the parts work together:

tonfa.jpg

Recent tonfa sightings include:

Screen Shot 2016-04-13 at 11.46.26 PM.png

:lol
 
Despite my previous musings on shearer's boots and the like, I think the boots are very standard lace-ups with a flap applied, as you say. I certainly think you'd have a better (and cheaper!) result buying something similar from army surplus and attaching a flap and some hardware, over trying to get a near match off-the-shelf.

That's the route I've been looking at.

With that loop in the back, and the stitching on the heel, they look very similar to the way the monochrome doc marten 1460's are constructed (the sole is the biggest difference, but the monochrome black sole comes pretty close.) -- the shape might be a bit wider and rounder on the docs, though.

I'm actually surprised how few plain combat boot knock-offs seem to be available online.
 
I've been trying to figure out the boots. And then it struck me today as I'm looking at my shoes I'm wearing which are some girly combat boots. I'm pretty sure its a modified front lace up "fashion" combat boot. Here's an example of something pretty similar that could be modified to look like Jyn's boots.

http://www.zappos.com/frye-veronica-combat-black-stone-wash

The stitching is even very similar. I'm sure you can find something cheaper than the Frye version, I have two pairs of non utility combat boots that I got both for under $100 but I'm thinking Jyn's might not be your standard army surplus boot.
 
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I've been trying to figure out the boots. And then it struck me today as I'm looking at my shoes I'm wearing which are some girly combat boots. I'm pretty sure its a modified front lace up "fashion" combat boot. Here's an example of something pretty similar that could be modified to look like Jyn's boots.

http://www.zappos.com/frye-veronica-combat-black-stone-wash

The stitching is even very similar. I'm sure you can find something cheaper than the Frye version, I have two pairs of non utility combat boots that I got both for under $100 but I'm thinking Jyn's might not be your standard army surplus boot.

Good call. Now to start making descisions and start breaking them in!
 
The Diesel Police Guy boot is another off-the-rack option which seems to keep going in and out of stock (and changes price) at Nordstrom Rack.

4627963.jpg
 
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First prototype of the baton/tonfa. There's a long way to go with this, I need to work out how to model and assemble the spring loaded extension, and how to use the side handle as a trigger to deploy it. I'm thinking you'd just push it back after use, which means the side handle would swing back into parallel with the baton when you push the top back down. I just want it to be a really beautiful thing to use.

tonfa.jpg
 
Hey, I'm working on a mock up of the shirt and was wondering if anyone figured out the yoke part of the shirt yet. I feel like it's two layers because the finishing on the flipped over edges. But I can't figure if it's a one-piece yoke, two piece front and back, or two pieces with a mid back seam. I was leaning towards the last one due to overlap + collar but that seems kind of weird to have a seam there. I suppose the collar could be its own separate piece in which case you could just extend the back piece and just have the front yoke as two separate overlapping pieces. Thoughts?
 
Yeah, I think shoulder seams are a bit unlikely in addition to the overlap, and instead the yoke is one piece. I'm going to experiment with it all in muslin in the next couple days. I bought butterick pattern 6132 and it should do nicely with some adjustments.
 
I got two pairs of the Black Diamond Stone gloves. One (XS) was produced in Pakistan, and the other (S) was made in China. They both were treated with a "natural" yellow dye that bled off when rubbed with a damp cloth, but the XS version is much thicker with a darker/greenish cast. The S version's leather is more porous and slightly softer as well.

IMG_7137.jpgIMG_7136.jpg

I removed the wrist strap to do some test with the neatsfoot oil, which didn't perceptibly change the color of the leather. Also tried gently removing some of the yellow overdye with several q-tips and acetone. A whole lot of dye came off, but not enough for the neatsfoot oil to change the color. Next step is going to be prep the leather with Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer and then darken it with a transparent dye.
 
Jyn’s close combat weapon seems to be a combination of a tonfa (with a hinged handle) and an expandable tactical baton. The telescoping sections of a baton of this type are not spring loaded. When the baton is flipped outward, the inertia and weight of the head allows the shaft to extend and lock into place. The sections often lock together when spring loaded ball bearings or rounded-end pins pop out slightly into retaining holes. The sections collapse when a little inward pressure is placed on the end. The pressure acts to compress the springs and allow the sections to telescope back together. In the collapsed state the same ball bearings or pins pop out into another set of holes to hold the baton closed. As such, this is a clubbing weapon, not a stabbing weapon, as a stabbing motion will only serve to close the baton.
 
I removed the wrist strap to do some test with the neatsfoot oil, which didn't perceptibly change the color of the leather. Also tried gently removing some of the yellow overdye with several q-tips and acetone. A whole lot of dye came off, but not enough for the neatsfoot oil to change the color. Next step is going to be prep the leather with Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer and then darken it with a transparent dye.

View attachment 617620

Update: After drying a bit longer, and two or three more applications of the oil the sections where I removed the finish started darkening up. So something to break down the factory finish and several layers of oil may just do the job of darkening everything up. (And it looks like I flipped the strap around since the last photo.)
 
This post is about Jyn's blouse. I use the term blouse as the article seems to fit loose under the bust (based on the cast photo),at the waist and in the sleeves. The ease at the waist and sleeves is based on the posterior photo of Jyn running in the “transportation center” (ID 612234). In this photo it appears she is wearing the blouse and the vest but not the jacket. This photo would also indicate the fabric drapes and moves freely. Others in the build thread are basing their design on knit fabrics and Butterick 6132. This pattern for knits is termed “close-fitting” so cutting the pattern a size or two larger may be the “easiest” way to obtain the desired ease. (I am starting with size 14, View B for a size 10 individual.)

EDIT The fabric was later determined to be woven not knit so there are probably better patterns to use as a base. I have undated my patterns twice based on newer information.

There has also been discussion of how the front yoke pieces might be formed. My take is there is a left and a right front yoke panel which can be made from the pattern's original part #5 (Yoke Front B). Instead of the a single bottom yoke edge extending from armscye to armscye, each panel goes from the armscye to a point about one and one-half inches beyond the front centerline. To modify the pattern,I am extending the straight line at the bottom and also adding a straight line out from the neckline at the center front. (This adds a 1.5 inch wide rectangle to the edge where the pattern had a foldline). Just as the original instructions call for cutting two yokes, I envision cutting two left and two right yokes. With right-sides of the two yoke parts together (one left yoke and one right yoke), the neckline and the edge of the new extension can be sewn, trimmed, and turned. This will then show the right side of the fabric when the point of the yoke extension rolls forward. When assembled, the left yoke lies atop the right and the lower edge of both are sewn to the lower front panel part #6 (Front B). This combination forms the entire blouse front. The top edges of the yokes wrap around and rises up above the natural neckline in what is sometimes called a“stovepipe” neckline. This is shown in the trailer at about 0:15 seconds (I have not seen a good screen capture which shows this detail). To obtain the stovepipe rise will require an alteration of the neckline on both the yoke and back pattern pieces.

As I start to modify and test my pattern I am interested in other opinions on my speculations.
 
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