Sith Obi-Wan Concept (was Kylo Ren) WIP (Pic Heavy)

Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Hey man! What measurements did you use for your pleats and do you have patterns for your pieces?

Hey there! I did the pleats free-hand using an approximate 2x1 ratio - so, if you unfold a pleat, you have 2" between the folds and each pleat is about 1" - I hope that makes sense. The template for the neckseal is being converted to a digital format and I'll be making that available very soon (will post here as well and on the Downloads page of my site). As to the rest of the patterns, I'm using a basic block and building everything up on that. Look for a simple commercial pattern that fits you and use that as a base. Cheers mate!

Beautifully done!

Thank you! Cheers!
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Hi guys - I wanted to let you know that I've just made the neck seal pattern available for download. Feel free to grab a copy here: http://smpdesigns.com/downloads/

neck-seal-post.jpg

Many thanks to Graphic Jordan for the awesome vector work!
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

WOO! This is the last piece I need to work on for my costume, and I needed to finish it in a little over a weeks time so this will help for sure! Thank you for sharing!

You're welcome! Let me know how it turns out. :)

Cheers!
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

SMP Designs I'm slightly confused on how the pattern goes together. I assume the piece labeled "top layer" is the layer closest to the chin? Then the pieces labeled "1, 2, 3, 4" go below it in order with 4 being attached to the bottom layer?
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Read through the first page posts, he step by steps the whole process.

Basically, you assemble the base, and the layers go top, 1, 2, 3, 4, on the base and the bottom layer forms the shoulder drape. On the bottom layer, the pattern pieces should be taped together at the join line - there is no seam there. The layers are cut on a fold at the center front line.

@SMP Designs I'm slightly confused on how the pattern goes together. I assume the piece labeled "top layer" is the layer closest to the chin? Then the pieces labeled "1, 2, 3, 4" go below it in order with 4 being attached to the bottom layer?
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Thanks Graphic Jordan - also, be aware that the notches on the layers align to the side seams of the base and mark the bottom of the piece.
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Thanks @Graphic Jordon - also, be aware that the notches on the layers align to the side seams of the base and mark the bottom of the piece.
Another question. I made my own basic pattern for the undercoat. Do you think it's necessary to have darts or shaped seams like yours? It doesn't seem like the movie costume is super fitted. What are your thoughts?

Also, how do you "ease" the pleated linen to the pattern without darts?
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Another question. I made my own basic pattern for the undercoat. Do you think it's necessary to have darts or shaped seams like yours? It doesn't seem like the movie costume is super fitted. What are your thoughts?

Also, how do you "ease" the pleated linen to the pattern without darts?

Honestly, I think it's a matter of personal taste and fit. While the actual movie costume may not have the darts (for the actor wearing it), in order to get the right look and fit on your body, you might want them. I, personally, like a nice tailored fit. I think it's more flattering, moves better and creates a better overall line.

IMO, when doing a costume like this, you should make it for you first and the costume second. In other words, work the basic pattern so that you like the way it looks on your body and you're comfortable in it. Then, attend to the details and adjust them to work with your base. In your case, if you made a base pattern that fits and you're comfortable in - then go with it.

The only technical aspect I would bring up with this particular costume is - if it's not at least somewhat tailored to the waist, you're going to get blousing above the belt and ripples below.

As to your second question - if you pre-treat (wash) all your fabrics before cutting, it will loosen the fibers, open the weave, cleanse out the milling chemicals and sometimes make it thicker (this is sometimes referred to as 'fulling'). Linen (and most loose weave natural fibers) will give you a lot of ease after doing this. So, you will be able to work the pleated pieces around the shaped pieces with little difficulty and use steam and a tailors ham to reset and relax them after sewing them down. Since these pieces don't have really complex shapes (no crazy bust curves), you're not having to deal with too much shaping.

I have seen seen some people recommend cutting on the bias. Unless you're experienced with bias, I wouldn't do this. It's more difficult, takes a lot more fabric and, if not done properly, will result in your pleats twisting and curling. Ever have a shirt where the hem got those diagonal twisty folds that you couldn't iron out? Yep, that's what will happen.

Ok, so that was a lot. Hope that helped. :)

Cheers!
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

So, @Bogleo asked a really good question over on his thread that follows up the comment above. He asked about fitting with darts vs shaped seams and what I thought was the best way to get a fitted look and still maintain the fairly simple pattern. Below is what I posted there and I thought it might be good to include here as well as an FYI...


"I think you can do all the fitting you need with darting or moving darts to the sides. Also, you should probably have a seam at the waist to give you more flexibility in fit and shape.

Here's a really rough basic pattern template that I threw together to illustrate my point.



So, on the upper body sections, you have a choice - you can dart the front and back pieces as well as have tapered side seams or you can move all of the tapering to the sides (essentially, you just take the dart and cut that amount out of the side). This works if you're slim and don't have a huge drop from your chest to your waist. If you have a large chest and a small waist, I think that distributing the fit around the piece evenly (via darts) is best.

With the lower sections, cut these with a waist seam (will be covered by the belt anyway) and give them some flare to add fullness and drape to the finished piece. Here's a quick and dirty diagram for taking a rectangular piece and adding flare to increase fullness.



So, that was maybe a lot more than you wanted to know, but I hope it helps. :)

Cheers!"
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

SMP Designs, I sent you an e-mail last night and was just wondering if you received it. When you get a chance, could you please PM me or respond to that message as I would like to discuss a couple things with you. Thanks. :cool
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

@SMP Designs, I sent you an e-mail last night and was just wondering if you received it. When you get a chance, could you please PM me or respond to that message as I would like to discuss a couple things with you. Thanks. :cool

Hi Brent. I did see your email - busy day today and working through everything. Let's touch base over the weekend. Thanks!
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Hi
I printed out the neck seal, at 100% but it seems to short in length around the neck. Only 3/4 long enough.

A4 size for the print or A3 is the only thing obvious that i can think of to fix that.

Any ideas

thanks.
 
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