Bogleo's Kylo Ren WIP

Bogleo · Jan 13, 2016

Working on a Kylo Ren costume. Helmet, lightsaber, and belt buckle will be 3D printed from my 3D models:

I'm planning to sew all the soft parts myself. I've never sewn anything before, so that will be a good new skill to learn.

More updates soon hopefully. Thanks for looking.

Frozen · Jan 14, 2016

Good luck on your first sewing!

hbw60 · Jan 18, 2016

I'm in the same position. I've never sewed anything before, and I'm starting with Kylo. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Thanks!

Bogleo · Jan 28, 2016

New more accurate buckle model:

I'll be doing a test print soon, and then maybe getting it printed by shapeways.

Dave Vader · Jan 28, 2016

Good luck with this. I dare not do the sewing so I have employed a costume maker..................expensive!!

Bogleo · Feb 3, 2016

So, I decided to try making my own gloves. Probably not the best part to start with for sewing. :lol I'm using an old Singer machine:

Anyway, I kinda followed an instructable on how to make gloves. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Gloves/step1

I made a pattern by putting on a disposable rubber glove, and then wrapping my hand in duct tape. Then I drew the main seams on it. I cut along them and extracted my hand.

I laid the glove/duct tape pieces on some paper, and traced them with a pencil as best I could. They wouldn't quite lay flat, but it turned out ok I think. Then, I cleaned up the pencil outlines, straightened a few of the lines, and made the thumb pattern symmetrical.

As a test, I transferred the thumb pattern to some random cloth with boats on it, and cut it out.

Next I sewed the outside seam and tried it on:

Pretty decent for first time sewing. :cool I found some red vinyl/pleather stuff in a drawer and decided to make a test thumb with it. Traced the pattern, cut and sewed:

Both thumbs:

So far so good! The plan is to transfer the other pieces onto fabric and make a test glove. Then I'll modify the pattern to include all the other seams and stitching and make another test. Finally, I'll get some thin leather (glove leather?) and sew the final piece. Thanks for looking, and wish me luck!

-edit-
Decided to purchase gloves instead.

Bogleo · Feb 17, 2016

Some work on the lightsaber and helmet models. I added more details to the saber, include the wire, greeblies around the emitter, belt clip, and cut out.

Also, I've decided not to make my own gloves, I'm focusing on the main soft parts first. I'll probably order gloves from Endor Finders. I got a 100% linen black fabric for the undercoat, and started making a pattern with a t-shirt. Making the layers from the inside out seems to be a good idea, to allow enough room for the mid/outer coats to fit.

Thanks for looking!

grenater · Feb 17, 2016

The helmet is looking great so far and seems to have a very good shape!

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

Bogleo · Feb 22, 2016

I drafted a prototype pattern for the undercoat and cut it out of some old bedsheets. (Don't laugh!)

In the pictures it's just held together with safety pins.

Some changes I'm thinking about:

-Making the arm holes bigger
-Making the neck hole smaller
-Decreasing the length on the bottom a little

Thanks for looking, and I'd love to hear any questions, comments, or critiques.

Ghostsoldier · Feb 23, 2016

You can always give that to someone's grandmother, when you're done, lol. Looks good!

TheAutoTech · Feb 27, 2016

Bogleo said:
Some work on the lightsaber and helmet models. I added more details to the saber, include the wire, greeblies around the emitter, belt clip, and cut out.
View attachment 592944
View attachment 592945 View attachment 592943

Also, I've decided not to make my own gloves, I'm focusing on the main soft parts first. I'll probably order gloves from Endor Finders. I got a 100% linen black fabric for the undercoat, and started making a pattern with a t-shirt. Making the layers from the inside out seems to be a good idea, to allow enough room for the mid/outer coats to fit.

Thanks for looking!

I've found too that when dealing with something like gloves if there's a good set out there for a decent price it's much easier to just buy them than to build them.

SMP Designs · Mar 10, 2016

Hey there! Just noticed I'm not subbed to your thread - since you're commenting on mine, I wanted to be sure to keep up.

Regarding our remarks about patterns - you look to be on the right track with your robe base. And, when working on developing a pattern block, use the cheapest and most available thing you can find to start with.

Looking forward to seeing it all progress!

Cheers!

Bogleo · Mar 10, 2016

SMP Designs said:
Hey there! Just noticed I'm not subbed to your thread - since you're commenting on mine, I wanted to be sure to keep up.

Regarding our remarks about patterns - you look to be on the right track with your robe base. And, when working on developing a pattern block, use the cheapest and most available thing you can find to start with.

Looking forward to seeing it all progress!

Cheers!

Thanks! It's really great to get advice from someone with lots of experience in sewing/patterns/etc.

Yup, the total cost of that pattern was $0.00. :lol (Old bed sheets)

What do you think about darts vs. shaped seams for making it more fitted? I have a decent idea about how to do a dart, but no clue about shaped seams. (Is that the right term?)

Also horizontal vs. vertical darts?

SMP Designs · Mar 10, 2016

Bogleo said:
What do you think about darts vs. shaped seams for making it more fitted? I have a decent idea about how to do a dart, but no clue about shaped seams. (Is that the right term?)

Also horizontal vs. vertical darts?

I think you can do all the fitting you need with darting or moving darts to the sides. Also, you should probably have a seam at the waist to give you more flexibility in fit and shape.

Here's a really rough basic pattern template that I threw together to illustrate my point.

So, on the upper body sections, you have a choice - you can dart the front and back pieces as well as have tapered side seams or you can move all of the tapering to the sides (essentially, you just take the dart and cut that amount out of the side). This works if you're slim and don't have a huge drop from your chest to your waist. If you have a large chest and a small waist, I think that distributing the fit around the piece evenly (via darts) is best.

With the lower sections, cut these with a waist seam (will be covered by the belt anyway) and give them some flare to add fullness and drape to the finished piece. Here's a quick and dirty diagram for taking a rectangular piece and adding flare to increase fullness.

So, that was maybe a lot more than you wanted to know, but I hope it helps.

Cheers!

Bogleo · Mar 15, 2016

SMP Designs said:
I think you can do all the fitting you need with darting or moving darts to the sides. Also, you should probably have a seam at the waist to give you more flexibility in fit and shape.

Here's a really rough basic pattern template that I threw together to illustrate my point.
-snip-
So, on the upper body sections, you have a choice - you can dart the front and back pieces as well as have tapered side seams or you can move all of the tapering to the sides (essentially, you just take the dart and cut that amount out of the side). This works if you're slim and don't have a huge drop from your chest to your waist. If you have a large chest and a small waist, I think that distributing the fit around the piece evenly (via darts) is best.

With the lower sections, cut these with a waist seam (will be covered by the belt anyway) and give them some flare to add fullness and drape to the finished piece. Here's a quick and dirty diagram for taking a rectangular piece and adding flare to increase fullness.
-snip-
So, that was maybe a lot more than you wanted to know, but I hope it helps.

Cheers!

Thanks for that. Don't worry about long replies, all the more information to devour!

Can you help me understand:

1. What fullness and drape are?
2. Why they are desirable?
3. How the waist seam works with the curving?

Thanks for any help you can give/have given. BTW, did you go to school for this stuff?

Thanks.

SMP Designs · Mar 15, 2016

Bogleo said:
Thanks for that. Don't worry about long replies, all the more information to devour! Can you help me understand: 1. What fullness and drape are?2. Why they are desirable?3. How the waist seam works with the curving?Thanks for any help you can give/have given. BTW, did you go to school for this stuff?Thanks.

Fullness, to put it very simply, in the terms of something like the skirt on this tunic, refers to the size of the hemline in relation to the waist. You can have a straight skirt (hem is the same as the waist = 0 fullness) up to a full circle or beyond (which is very full). It allows for the garment to fall over the hips and gives some swing and movement to the garment. In the case of this costume, I don't think a lot of fullness is needed, but some will improve the fit and appearance.

Drape is simply the way the fabric hangs off the body.

This is important when selecting fabric for its weight, stiffness and stretch. When pattern pieces are flared for fullness (and there is a waist seam) it will always be curved at the waist seam and the hem. The reason is that all four corners must be right angles or, when you sew the pieces together at the sides, you won't have a smooth waist edge and hem edge. The more fullness, the greater the curve (as per my quickie diagram in the earlier comment). When you ease this curved waist into the flat waist of the upper part, you distribute all the fullness around the body evenly (as opposed to one long piece where you flare the side seams below the waist - which results in flat front and back and all the fullness at the sides).

For a dynamic costume like this, where movement is key for action and posing, it just makes a much nicer look to have the fullness distributed evenly. IMHO.

To answer your last question, yes, I did.

And I've been doing this professionally for nearly 20 years.Cheers!

Bogleo · Apr 27, 2016

Progess!

Cutting the pattern out of cotton twill:

Linen:

Bogleo · May 18, 2016

A bit more to show. I'm getting the hang of the sewing machine. The two front panels are done, and I just finished pleating the linen for the back two. :wacko Sorry for the potato quality camera. :lol

Bogleo · May 24, 2016

SMP Designs said:
~snip~

Hey, I'm about to start on the skirt sections, and I have a question. I made the pattern with a curved top and bottom edge, but now I'm wondering how that will work with the pleats.

In these images you can see that the pleats line up with the bottom edge on the movie costume: (click again to make bigger)

How would that work with a curved edge on the pattern? How did you do it?
Would it cause any problems to modify my pattern to have a straight edge on the bottom?

Thanks!

SMP Designs · May 26, 2016

Bogleo said:
Hey, I'm about to start on the skirt sections, and I have a question. I made the pattern with a curved top and bottom edge, but now I'm wondering how that will work with the pleats.

In these images you can see that the pleats line up with the bottom edge on the movie costume: (click again to make bigger)
View attachment 628164 View attachment 628165

How would that work with a curved edge on the pattern? How did you do it?
Would it cause any problems to modify my pattern to have a straight edge on the bottom?

Thanks!

Depending on the fabric, you can 'ease' the pleats with steam to curve. If the fabric will not ease on the straight grain, you'll need to cut the pieces on the bias (45 degree angle) to get the ease needed to press the curves in.

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