Vader MPP lightsabers details and specifications

Understood- Roman is doing the right thing for the broader market, but it is still personally disappointing, as I'm planning on replicating the ANH black sidebars prop according to what I see in the blurry photos- straight bars perhaps with no plastic insert- so the extra modification or sourcing is a bummer. Don't misunderstand- Roman's will be the best MPP replica yet. Parfaitelumiere- not sure if I'm losing your meaning or if I'm ignorant of the MPP clamp opening variations- if no sleeve, then clamp opening is smaller- about 10mm? The red LED circuit board is about 14 mm wide when cut to the edge of the solder dots, so does that offer some additional confirmation about which bars/clamp scenario is on the original ANH black sidebars prop? Does a 14 mm opening confirm what you say is the rarer scenario- no sleeve and wider opening? (Or am I totally confusing the variations?)

MPP clamps from the custom saber shop and old Parks MPP parts have black straight sidebars! I have an old Parks MPP and i converted it to the ANH V2 since I see lines in that old B&W photo of the prop that suggest to me theyre not trapezoidal. Different flash that stuck around for esb and rotj I assume
 
Eye popping single step shroud! My vintage MPP is sporting one of Roy's steel shrouds until a miracle occurs and I find a vintge one.
Congrats on a fantastic piece!


Wow ... indeed excellent piece ... did it come with a D-ring attached already?

Chaïm

Thank you, fellas! I couldn't be happier to actually own one. Never thought I would have the opportunity.

About the shroud, yes the D-ring was attached already. Unfortunately though, the shroud pictured in my OP is a reproduction. I believe it's one of Roy's. It was included in the sale from the previous owner due to the original single-step shroud being cut off at the top prior to him purchasing it. Not sure what the reasoning might have been at the time it was done, but it is what it is.

Here's a few pics of the original and a side by side comparison:





 
I bent my nail ahead of time then strung everything together. I was able to get the right look without having to apply force to the edge of the clamp whilst bending the nail. The order of operations was

1. disassemble clamp, including the lever/pin assembly
2. bend nail to desired shape (I held the nail with pliers and forced it against the concrete in my driveway until I achieved the right shape. Took 3 or 4 attempts)
3. put nail through left-most side bar (should be smaller hole with threads)
4. insert nail tip through the clamp openings while holding the side bar against the head of the nail
5. slide right side bar (larger hole) down tip of nail, around the bend, and up against the right side of the clamp
6. glue left side bar to clamp making sure to snug the top/long edge of the bar against the lip of the clamp (the one that holds the bubble card)
7. glue right side bar to clamp, also making sure to hold the top/long edge of the bar against the clamp lip
8. hold loose lever in place on nail to determine how much of the nail tip needs to be removed
9. using dremel, remove tip of nail. In my case it was about 3/4"/19mm
10. glue lever in place on nail
11. orient lever to correct angle, then drop a bead of glue underneath the nail head on the left side to hold the clamp lever in correct position

It's totally possible to do it without jacking up your clamp or sidebars :cool


Does the clamp sit loosely at all with the nail in place of a tightly screwed lever?
 
Does the clamp sit loosely at all with the nail in place of a tightly screwed lever?
I pre-squeezed the clamp together before the final installation so that it would fit snuggly, but it's not as tight as it was with the intact lever.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
 
So I keep seeing reference to the ANH clamp position being 6 o'clock. But if using the Chronicles photo as reference, its actually closer to 4 or 5 o'clock if you compare where the ports line up. Am I nuts?

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