Kylo Ren Voice Changer HELMET (not mask)
- Thread starter Howlrunner
- Start date
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
I answered this question two pages back.
Does anyone even read this thread?
Untitledmark1
New Member
Oh dang, my apologies I skimmed for the fiber... I suppose I should have slowed down. That's awesome, did you have to brace it or did you just let it cure free standing?
As far as fiberglass goes, this is the thread I was referring to:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=253086
As a mentor of mine used to say... "Cool it, and be cool." I missed that post, my mistake.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=253086
As a mentor of mine used to say... "Cool it, and be cool." I missed that post, my mistake.
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
I stuck it into a five gallon bucket with some burlap to support it in place. The seams were already welded closed, but if yours are not I'd recommend taping them closed very well.
I glassed it everywhere except for the chrome plated (painted?) piece as I didn't want to clean up all the holes and risk damaging the piece.... And I was too lazy to tape it off.
Used three layers of 10 oz cloth, and generic fiberglass resin with no warping or other heat issues present.
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I am always cool. It's a talent.
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Untitledmark1
New Member
How does fiber glass compare to using bondo. I have more familiarity with bondo but I don't know if perhaps glass would be more advantageous.
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Bondo is just a body filler... It's very brittle when made too thick, heavy, and very easily broken. It's good for filling small gaps and smoothing surfaces, but I wouldn't rely on it in any structural capacity.
Fiberglass (with the appropriate resin) is an incredibly strong material, and perfect reinforcement for the helmet. It's very light, as well as very easily shaped. It's not very prone to heat warpage, sticks to just about everything, and doesn't tend to become brittle with age.
I have been working with fiberglass for just about my whole life though, so I may be a little biased.
Untitledmark1
New Member
Sounds like fiberglass is the way to go. Any advice, how to's, photo reference or anything you suggest for looking into using fiberglass in the helmet?
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
There are plenty of great resources out there on using fiberglass correctly. Tested.com has the "Zoidberg Project" where Frank Ippolito goes in depth on using it, Stan Winston School has a few video tutorials covering it.. Etc.
The only real thing I see people do wrong is saturate the fiberglass in resin. The strength comes from the glass itself, not the resin.... The resin is basically just a glue holding everything together. If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me!
Amaranthus
New Member
Can anyone let me know what parts I need to remove to get rid of the voice changer completely? I heard the nosebridge is uncomfortable as well, should I get rid of that too?
And are all those things easy to remove?
Was also wondering if I need to keep the headstrap.
I plan on adding foam, if I got rid of all those things (or all the things I should get rid of, depends on what you guys say) where should I add foam?
Sorry about all these questions, I just don't want to mess up.
And are all those things easy to remove?
Was also wondering if I need to keep the headstrap.
I plan on adding foam, if I got rid of all those things (or all the things I should get rid of, depends on what you guys say) where should I add foam?
Sorry about all these questions, I just don't want to mess up.
Untitledmark1
New Member
Almost everything comes out by unscrewing it. And then just snipping the voice changer wires. I'm adding foam padding as though this were a baseball helmet,ears so there is no side to side shake and top of skull for comfort.
Sabs
Active Member
Looks good but that plate sticks off the face too much in my opinion.
See?
Also have you considered wetsanding with 1000 grit or just scrubbing with 000 steel wool to matte it up a bit?
KoRen
New Member
For any one who wants to know there efforts of nosing there black series isn't going to be waisted when then Anovos comes out and we find out how undersized the Hasbro is, turns out that it's the same as the real helmets,
i took 100s of shots at a S.W 7 promo display and as you can see the tape is right on the pieces so the results are there, also the tape is in Metric of cause
i took 100s of shots at a S.W 7 promo display and as you can see the tape is right on the pieces so the results are there, also the tape is in Metric of cause
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Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Please share more pics!!
I measured against my Black Series and it is exactly the same, just as I had been saying all along. Glad to have some hard measurements to finally back it up!
KoRen
New Member
I'm currently with out Internet so only using my phone but I can take iphone shots of my display screen I'll add a few more now but Ill load the rest later, as well as Kylo I got Phasma and blaster,( and behind her cape) Rey and a couple of bb8 and the stormtrooper,
I hope this helps some, I've been sculpting a Kylo helmet and its be a big help for me,
Enjoy,
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Once I get my internet sorted I'll post high def versions of these and many more,
I hope this helps some, I've been sculpting a Kylo helmet and its be a big help for me,
Enjoy,
- - - Updated - - -
Once I get my internet sorted I'll post high def versions of these and many more,
Attachments
Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Absolutely. I've said over and over the Black Series originates from scans just as the Anovos helmet does, and people were acting like I was crazy.
My BS lid is just a touch too wide as I had thought, but that's a very easy fix.
Thanks again so much for the pictures @KoRen!!
lukyanov
Sr Member
Please, share more of hilt's photos if you get this.
It will be perfect if quality will be better, than on phone camera now.
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