cyanoacrylate (super glue) residue

Hi guys, more advice requests, I hope no one minds.

I sometimes use Super Glue or other brand names of cyanoacrylates. I have found almost ALL the time ( It happens 60% of the time all of the time ) the fumes will leave a crappy looking milky colored residue on parts. I have seen various videos of people using an accelerator of some type and was wondering if this would help in eliminating this discoloration. I also need to know, what is the best brand to use.

Last question, I cannot keep this super glue off of my pants, I get drips all the time because my hands shake like I'm in an earthquake thanks to my Multiple Sclerosis. Is there any solvent you know of that can remove this without eating a hole through my pants?

Thank You

jamiestarr319

Acetone (nail varnish remover) should loosen the glue, but you can actually buy cyanoacrylate remover (although I am unsure what specific ingredient it is made of). http://www.parts-express.com/super-glue-cyanoacrylate-debonder-remover-1-oz--340-640

blue2k said:

Acetone (nail varnish remover) should loosen the glue, but you can actually buy cyanoacrylate remover (although I am unsure what specific ingredient it is made of). http://www.parts-express.com/super-glue-cyanoacrylate-debonder-remover-1-oz--340-640

Click to expand...

super awesome, thank you so much

jamiestarr319

jamiestar,
I use Future floor finish (also known as Johnson's Clear, Pledge Floor finish, ect) to protect clear parts from fogging from super glue fumes, as well as to improve clarity. Maybe you could try to paint it around the area you are going to glue. As kind of a mask against dammage....Might be worth a try, the stuff is incredible, I even use it to prime kits for painting, as paint sticks like crazy to it. Good luck with it! Or, try to mask the area around the joint with tape.....

These posts were very helpful! And I didn't even know I had this problem until I clouded a clear part this morning. At least I had a spare, and the acetone worked a bit to remove, but the floor wax prep was the key on the back-up part.

Thanks RPF!

i use superglue accelerant all the time.will fix this problem.comes in a small spray pump bottle.easy to use and wont damage paint or plastic.
recommend BSI insta-set accelerator made by bob smith industries.most good hobby shops stock it
www.bsi-inc.com

One thing is to apply tiny amounts to the joins. Essentially, you need to jig the joints (i.e., have them held together before applying the cement) then apply sparingly using an applicator of some kind. I always make a small 'puddle' of CA on recycled frozen juice lids (no sharp edges and a gutter + lip...) that I then dip the applicator into for application. I've used a medium sized sewing needle with half the 'eye' filed off to leave a two-pronged point, then inserted the sharp end into a used disposable chopstick as a handle (adding some CA to the handle firms up the bamboo around the needle so it doesn't split out.)

There are also some 'high tech' photo-etched applicators being sold on the market, but the needle works well, plus you can purchase an inexpensive needle 'kit' that has several different sizes so you can have tailored applicators from 'tiny' to 'less tiny'.

If the tip becomes gummed up with CA, just run it over a candle to burn off the dried CA.

Also, running a fan across the piece while gluing will help quickly disperse the fumes before they can settle onto nearby surfaces. Plus, the 'Pledge Multi-Purpose Floor Finish' trick can help keep clear parts from fogging - but again, only if working with the tiny amounts. CA is a bear if you attempt to 'flood' a joint, and if using an accelerator, it can heat up enough to cause damage (as anyone who has clamped a drop between their fingers can attest!)

Hope this helps... Regards, Robert

I ran into a goofy problem on my Ecto-1 build. I guess I had toughed the insides of the windows, and so when I assembled the bottom, after a few hours the fumes stuck to the oils my fingers left behind. Had to crack it back open and wipe it down. Lesson learned!

The so-called "super glue remover" that I tried years ago did work, but not as well as I hoped. It is a gel which "evaporates" very quickly while you are using it, and several applications are required. Even then, it did not remove all the residue. Sorry, I don' t recall the brand . . .

Try Gorilla's version of super glue. I find it less fumy, thicker than the very thin superglue, but not as thick as superglue gel. Easy to work with.

Thank you one and all, i really appreciate the feedback and replys

You can buy superglues that are non-fogging, like Roket (it's also odourless, which is nice and "nose-friendly"). The company that makes it is based in the UK, but I'm sure they export worldwide.

Brake fluid can remove CA boo-boos...but it probably won't help fogged clear parts.