TIP: sand the pipes on the runners and get rid on the production join lines on each pipe.. I know the on other kit bash parts you leave them as the studio model has them but not the plpes which were bent copper I believe. Also keep the undersides of the pipes dark to stand out like on the left here...It's just my way and a know many may prefer to just do it all when stuck together! Up to you...no set rules on this. So I've sanded with fine paper, painted oil black & left to dry 3-5 hours should do then sanded again to create weathered pipes but leaving the undersides dark. One that's done l can cut from runners & sand them bits.
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Here's them placed but not glued yet...need to find out if there's any rusts to add in the pits... This is up to stage 77
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Second that. It would really help.

I am trying your techniques but mine is just not coming out nearly as good.

Also if you did all the panel colors with a brush how did you make them look so smooth, like airbrushing, panel shading as well????


Sorry to bug you but you have simply the best Falcon I have ever seen. This includes some amazing Master Replicas Re-paints I have seen. They were awesome but yours is the best I have ever seen.



Thanks

TIP: use a wide brush to create a even patch paint surface for the grey & reds.... Once. Dry add a little black/white Tamiya powder before peeling off the tape...
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This is up to stage 78 & as far as l can go. I'll drill & tap 8-32s & add the 4-40 Allen screws on the end of the mandibles when l get them,
Steve Dymszo talks about in this in his video part 2 about 9.10 in...
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G'day DARKVIEW, still incredible work you're helping us with mate! ...Apologies in advance, but , since getting used to these Internet forums/sites and such, I'm still not sure what's appropriate and/or not. As you know I've been following builds by yourself, Mark (Warren?), Brian Taylor and Chis Coulson..., but Mark and your good self have been especially gracious with help and advice. So, I've already posted on Marks ' build', but I'd like to ask for your help/advice as well. I've tried to mod the 1st supplied cockpit 'shell', using plasti-card and piping, but I've had to use ' Tamiya ' putty to blend it all. Trouble is when I went to apply the 'alkyd' lamp black on it , as with other panels, the puttied area still showed through. Please help/advise if possible. Can't afford a $100+ ' Shapeways product at this time!..maybe when I win lotto! Lol!!!' Cheers ✌️.Ged: )
 
Hey Ged, if I've done any fills or replace plastic card parts I've humbrol painted them & tried to colour match the rest of the build...why aren't you waiting for the replacement cockpit? Best j
 
G'day mate, thanks for sharing. I've decided to use the Tamiya xf-57 buff & x-2 white acrylics I'd gotten ( much earlier for this build ) for eye matching the base colour on the 'quad blaster 'assembly. With re; to the replacement cockpit cone, I've read on so many sites/forums that it still had its share of problems and inaccuracies. That, plus the fact that most seemed to think that the original cone would be 'easier' to mod...led me down this path. Anyhoo, Mark offered his advice , but, I'm not going the Vellejo option. Still having to stick to a budget!, plus I don't have an airbrush!. I'm going to apply a light coating of Tamiya semi-gloss before attempting the oil coat and weathering on both the cockpit cone and turrets. Am I right in taking this precaution, so as not to damage/remove the underlying acrylic paint work with the oil paint? Cheers, Ged
 
Mmm a semi gloss prime rings alarm bells to me!! Especially if your going to add the oils, rub & use thinners..... I'd try it on a test piece of the kit.... Even the runners/backs if nothing else..
 
I think like I've said you'd best do some testing on spare bits. lm happy with the replacement nose cone l got way back so just used the oil/rub method mentioned loads within this thread. (P:10). Hope you find a happy medium ;-)
 
Cheers Mate, sincerely apologise for last post ( going abit ' nerdy,' lol! ). This is a new learning curve for us re; methods of paint/application ( straight oils on un- prepared surface/s ) . Just seems that persons like yourself and others achieve results that 'newbies' and ignorants like myself want to emulate, 'cause they're so bloody brilliant and inspirational. Decided not to ' sweat' my attempt at this so much. More important stuff in life eh!, but, this project seems ' is ' of some import to me. Not really sure why ( selfish- mid life crisis stuff!? Ha! Ha! ). Anyhoo, truly am appreciating your ( and others ), help , advice and guidance on this ideal project. ✌️Ged.
 
My god, man. The mandibles are looking amazing. I absolutely love the look of the recess pits.

Over the course of the last year or two I picked up a new compressor and a couple of Iwata airbrushes. I have been fully intending to use them on this project but am not so sure any more. Following your work in this thread has continually blown me away and has me seriously considering giving this method a go. Great work.
 
Honesty don't build your hopes up to much, it's gonna be basic and showing the mandible as a sample, oil weathering with the finished product stills. Still waiting for the final parts of it to be delivered.

Been editing the reel on my labtop in a small space of my house that's not a bomb site due to builders replacing all my windows, anyway trying to add a bit humour to the video ;-).
 
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Well 79-82 arrived today so lve got started on finishing the starboard mandible with parts from 79, (I'd already done the parts in 78 that 79 instructs). Anyway I've done most of the weathering on the runners, it's just my way of doing things, it helps focus on each parts details l find, you can of course glue everything on then weather, probably will just as good results.
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l leave the parts above all black probs no longer than 15 mins before paper rubbing as much of the black oil off till required
effect. I've stuck together the 3 sections of the front nose (where the light is) before l weathered. The pipes that were off the
runners & had come off it transit.
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when dry (I waited about 4-5 hours) l cut & sand from the runners then use the tamiya soot weather powder on the sanded areas to cover.
TIPS:
Cotton buds help remove excess darks from awkward small areas also dip them into the thinners if it's dry or tough to help remove/fade more.
Fine sandpaper rubbed on the light side of the pipes works a treat!.
 
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