As a fellow California resident I can help with that. Any hobby store and many hardware stores. Of couse there always ebay or Amazon.
 
Darkview. still one of the best falcons out there. Your paint and weathering are awesome. Love the addition of the missing pipes.

BTW, love that face hugger. You are clearly the master.
 
Thanks, just primed the brass and painted the pipes...

qPi2JWVl.jpg
 
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FALCON 32" hunk of junk build

I really like the addition of the pipes.
What are the diameter of the brass pipes you use? Preferably in millimeters [emoji51]I'm planning to pick som up tomorrow.

Edit: I just saw the post with the dimensions. 1 mm and 1.5 mm. Stupid me.
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Yep! I'm working on TFA Falcon oblong radar and hold seat at the moment but I've had loads on so it's here and there when l can. I've all done to join it all up but keep holding back thinking about the hold floor replacement....! Erhh!
 
there is a decent hobby store in Woodland Hills on Canoga and Vanowen-ish. He has a great selection of paints and model making supplies.
Oh cool. Any idea of the name? I grew up near that area. I went to Canoga Park High.

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SIDE SPIN. Right! here's my TFA Radar from Shapeways by TONYRR review . . . .
gi1YhnQl.jpg


This isn't an easy 3D printed piece to do! but with lots of perseverance it's getting there . . . it needs loads of
attention. For Frosted Ultra Detail l wasn't impressed!. (see the lines below).
l did the wash etc before priming . . . you can see ive sanded parts that you just cannot see while in its raw print.
Plus the main trouble is it's all one block.

I'm the kind of guy that expects the word Frosted Ultra Detail to mean what it says ...this even with experience
is hard work. BUT it's an exceptable peice with endurance.

RZP1QcUl.jpg

dmBYifhl.jpg


Below: After many hours of fine sanding and drybrushing at this stage . . . note the fine pipe has come off,
Top right below, it's soooo delicate and hard to sand smooth.(Ultra care is needed).

i80JrUTl.jpg



UPDATE: l've drybrushed the radar with Humbrol Matt light Grey 28 for it's first colour weathering coat below... more to follow...

i80JrUTl.jpg


BELOW UPDATE: Getting a closer match added Humbrol Matt 108 to the Grey 28 . . . getting there.

J9AnYSol.jpg
 
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Looking great Jordan. Certainly a nice 3D print, made better with all your effort to sand those print ridges flat.

Gotta ask though, any reason to make the TFA version ? Or are you planing on simply swapping out just the radar to distinguish the "old" and "new" Falcon versions ?
 
G'day Jordan , have been re-reading some of the build threads on various sites re; tips/techniques etc , and others have expressed the same concerns you've shared about the ' print lines ' on some 3D parts . Someone suggested applying ' Mr Hobby / Mr Surfacer Primer ' . Apparently , it's a self levelling primer . Haven't used it myself , but thought you might want to give it a go ?
Cheers Ged .
 
Hi gedmac66,
Think I recall something about surface cleaners etc...l cleaned mine in a mild water-based detergent like baby shampoo (no conditioner). I dried naturally then ultra fine sanded, (repeated 3 times) then primed twice! Taking great care.
 
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My $18 canopy in 'White Strong & Flexible Polished' (white nylon plastic) arrived yesterday. Very happy with it, good detail and you don't have to be too gentle with it as it is flexible, rough surface though, 3 coats of car Primer/Filler with 1200 grit w/d sand paper. Not a fan of the Frosted Ultra Clear not after a few incidents with my cockpit, very brittle.
 
I'd have liked a tougher choice but frosted ultra was only listed, I'm going to brass pipe the front bars as that's its only weak spots.
 
Hey Jordan , yeah I'd heard about thoroughly washing 3D parts ( removing wax etc ) , but , seenings how you mentioned that you hadn't painted the final colour as of last post # 932 , thought that ' self levelling ' primer might be an option .
Your work on this build , and gracious attitude to all re ; help/tips , is still top notch . When are you planning to post another ' how - to ' video ?
Cheers Ged .
 

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