Cheers, yes thanks l checked your link vg mojo, I'm sure I can correct the piping etc, bit confused by what's the other problems.
Think l need to see a clear before/after to judge!.
Still! it's nothing that lm sure cannot be put right if wrong ...lm up to issue 87 so far so will address it come the time.
 
Had a day off today so been working & testing the Landinglights (issues 87). Plus the Starboard/Port engine light (issues 88) systems, all AOK.

Will be giving tips on it soon if your using this method (in this thread) of oil weathering & getting full light insulation where it's not wanted!.
 
Not as yet but will at some point, I'm just inbetween a weekend comic con (my day kinda job in graphic novels) at a stadium venue doing signings with other guests...

That video is basically the all about standard and practice I do to all parts of the FALCON. I will keep tipping long after finishing it tho... I've lots of other things to consider like cargo flooring grills, do l or not? Is it really worth it!?. Questions, questions as Roy Batty would say....
 
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Yes!!!!..
your finishes without ' 3rd party 'components ( eg. hold floor ) , is terrific, but, I guess like most/some of us ? you've changed/adapted certain ideals ( trying to make it ' more ' screen accurate ) on the outer hull , for example - I'm para phrasing ! regarding your build , ie changing the meteor damage ( which is terrific - as is, with what you've done ) on the outer tube-cockpit area. So far , I've purchased the Paragrafix hold & corridor photo-etch substitutes ( everything else is scratch/modded/ embellished to my sensibilities ). Decided not to try for screen/set/ 'copy ' of the 32" any longer , still trying my best though , and want to enjoy this project again ( can be stressful, with sooo many options to consider! ) . Your customisation of her hold maybe won't warrant a replacement grid floor mate, but it'll certainly ' oomph up ' it's already beautiful detail. Again with more decisions eh? My $.02 worth.
 
Hey Darkview I got a question for you. You are applying this oil method directly to the unpainted surface of the deago plastic parts right? So my question is, if I want to use this method on a model that must first be painted, what kind of clear coat would be best to apply over my base coat and panels so that this oil method will get the most accurate results to what your getting?

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk
 
Yes to the first question. To tell you the truth I've never thought of using this method for anything else that would require a base coat.
The method of rubbing would ruin it, definitely with using white spirit as a thinner.... lve used it on things like my pre painted BB8 l showed earlier in this thread. If I were to paint a model id do it the old (long) fashion way .... priming, paint/spraying/dry brushing etc
 
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I am having an EMERGENCY! HELP!
I created a test piece earlier this summer to test my method and it worked great. (You can see it in the pic) So I have been spending the lest few months doing everything with that plan in mind. I got the base coat done and all of the panels masked and painted and some initial wear done and everything was going great! Until I started adding oils. And now it's completely messed up and I don't know what to do!

The method I used on my test piece was tamiya surface primer, then insignia white, then scratches and scuffs, then oils. This worked beautifully.

Now when I did that on the mandible of my actual falcon you can see in the pic...it was too dark. I couldn't remember my exact process so I thought maybe I did a dull coat before I did oils. So last night I sprayed a dull coat over it and tonight I tried to apply oils and it's even worse! You can see the dark section of the hull. Using turps to try to remove the oils does nothing! I have no idea how to fix this! Please help!!!

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What l do & show in this thread is only for the deagostini Falcon with its factory set supplied colour. (not sure what kit that falcon is your showing?).
I'd clearly stated throughout my thread it's for factory set surfaces if it's a darn good colour match.

You may have to strip it & redo, google removing sprays, paints etc...hope you manage to resolve your dilemma
or ask others advice in the main thread. Wish l could help more but I've never had that problem, sorry.
 
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SirCharles77, had similar problems with applying ( and leaving ) too dark an oil coat. Methods that worked for me were a: rubbing selected panels ( in direction of intended flow-lines I.e gravity streaks ) , using an ordinary pencil eraser ( Jordan's idea ). b: rubbing away at said panels/areas with ' magic eraser ' made by ' Chux ' cleaning products here in Oz. Just followed the instructions and it works a treat. That idea came from Brian Taylor. I used both ' lightening ' methods on areas with/out a primer/colour applied over the natural kit supplied plastic colour. Jordan hope I wasn't stepping over the line by offering advice on your thread mate. ✌️
 
It is amazing how, with some 700+ pages of fabulous tutorial advise, and a plethora of photos of specific techniques; some here just don't get it. Or is it that reading the full set of posts is just too much for some? Hmmmm ...
 
Ha ha yes Mike, l then just added some Tamiya Weathering Master Kit white SNOW powder within the mask or after peeling.

But you can just use any enamel/acrylic/paint whatever. Perhaps just mix a fade Red to get required tone first. I stuck the tape on a cutting board first then cut it out.
 
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Tomorrow after my Hallowe'en shenanigans tonight I'll show my finished mandibles & rust techniques I've done on the side details.. With the last 8 or so issues, lve decisions to make with lighting,floors etc...internal stuff and lm gonna take my sweet time getting it right for me before sealing this big old bird. ;-)
 
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Mandibles so far.
Rusts....ld researched all the rusty areas and brushed in with various Tamiya Weathering powders rust colours.

I then found some Acrylics lve had for years so with a dish and a bit of water added the rust in various places to try to
match the studio model splat like rusts, not a big fan of the original weather but know them guys were probably in a hurry!.
Anyway I can add or fade it (note 3rd picture up) when it's finished if l feel it needs more or less or tone down the orange with
a darker rust but for now I'm happy.
 
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Beautiful weathering on the mandibles Jordan. Any problems applying acrylics over the oil base coat , and , have you considered watercolours as well ? Asking 'cause I've come across various YouTube videos where these mediums are discussed for ' finishing ' off detailing/weathering too!. Cheers
 

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