My first build (deago ESB SS Falcon!)

Many thanks again Kris and for the heads up on the potential new parts, been trawling their forums so will keep my eyes peeled, thoug was looking forward to so scratch building lol oh well got 3 finemolds falcons to abuse first. Keep up the great work!
 
Started on some of the hallway panels, scratch built some panel/instrument detail into the corner piece, added some test Fiber in, gonna paint these with some glass paint once I get the final optics installed, lots of fun working on all the hallway stuff!

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Did a test fit with some EL Tape for the cockpit, going to work out really well! cant wait to get it all lit up in here!

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Did some lighting for the bunk, added a fiber light into the back of it, and scratch built the little double ended tube light that attaches over the seats, using a small SMD light for it, the thin styrene works great as a light diffuser!

gonna add some small red optics lights to the side where all the wires/detailing was added, then some small optic lights around the back of the cushions where all the control stuff is next, then finally optics for the chess table and this little area should be done!-

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Added some oPtics to the end of the bunk, almost done now, need to add back some of the hoses I modeled also want to add some small lights to the control panel behind the top of the seats and that should wrap this piece up!

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Here is a prototype for the corridor floor lighting I want to do, using a strip of EL tape, will cut it down the middle for final result and use the one EL strand of tape for both sides! gonna scratch build the floor ontop of the EL tape, prolly use the manufactured floor to build right on top of since it screws into the hall really well, its really thick so plent of room to sand the top down so my new floor I build ontop will be the same height as supplied part. Really excited about this part!

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Here is a prototype for the corridor floor lighting I want to do, using a strip of EL tape, will cut it down the middle for final result and use the one EL strand of tape for both sides! gonna scratch build the floor ontop of the EL tape, prolly use the manufactured floor to build right on top of since it screws into the hall really well, its really thick so plent of room to sand the top down so my new floor I build ontop will be the same height as supplied part. Really excited about this part!
top class, you cannot tell the scale , lighting is brilliant
 
Thanks! yeah that is one of the things I'm really trying to focus on with this is getting all the lighting to feel close to set lighting, lots of fun!
 
Built this test piece to practice painting techniques on, was looking to see how much of the base color really comes through once all the other layers of paint and weathering are applied, was surprised how little it mattered, there are some traces of the original base colors cast but not as much as I thought there would be!

The base colors are painted over black using Tamiya rattle can Insignia white ( the greyer color on the top half) and Racing White( the warmer and brighter color on the bottom half)


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Thanks!

Here are colors I used, all tamiya, I need to lighten them all up a bit ( added some ref pics of the colors I'm working off) especially that dark grey and medium grey. The red looks really dark as well, I sprayed the red panels with dark grey first so that the red would not take so long to build up over the white color, I should have gone with light grey so the red would go on brighter... next time!

all the rust stuff and some of the streaking is a weather power kit, Weather System from Bragdon Enterprises # FF-60
 
Great choice going with Tamiya insignia white as the base color, I have the MR Falcon and Tamiya Insignia white is a very close match.
 
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Added some final paint spatter, and hatch marks. Overall I'm really happy with this test and feel much better about moving on to painting the actual model now! Lots of trial and error and finding out when is too much, like the paint splatter! haha

Kris
 
That looks great!!

Only think I'd suggest is to cover the areas inside the plating notches when masking.
 
That looks great!!

Only think I'd suggest is to cover the areas inside the plating notches when masking.

For a normal, quality job that's the way to go. But apparently ILM, in keeping with the concept of a ragged looking vehicle (and possibly due to lack of time), didn't. So it's more correct in this case to keep it slapdash and rough.
 

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