HendoArt
Active Member
LOL that one got me so good.
SPIDER GWEN Build (Pic Heavy)
- Thread starter HendoArt
- Start date
-
- Tags
- costuming spider-man
LOL that one got me so good.
HendoArt
Active Member
Update: Magnets Inserted into Frames
So I busted out these new frames last night. At least it was easier the second time around! Magnets went in this morning
1. Used a dremel with the 1/4" router tip on the slowest setting to drill these holes; perfect since my magnets are a 1/4" diameter. I sunk them a little deeper than the depth of the magnet to give room for glue and a putty cover.
2. I scored the ever living hell out of the magnets first, then separated them on the table with the same magnetic side up. After cleaning the holes with alcohol, I dropped Loctite Epoxy Quick Set ($4.50) into each hole and dropped a magnet in each, pressing all the way down with a bamboo stick (because my fingers are precious) and holding it there for like 30 seconds.
3. Then I took a paper towel and wiped them all flush. I periodically poked them with my stick to make sure the glue wasn't expanding them out, and also because I'm pretty sure poking makes time go faster.
Last edited:
RiotJavelinDX
Sr Member
Well done; I'm not looking forward to drilling holes into my frames, I'm afraid of cracking them.
HendoArt
Active Member
I was too, especially since this was my first time using the dremel! I found that it helped to do a layer of plasti-dip just to add another layer of tension, and to drill on a hard surface instead of holding it with my hand. Mostly I practiced a couple times on a test block of sculpey.
HendoArt
Active Member
Update: Faceshell Magnets and Eye Lenses
1. So I jabbed epoxy putty ($6) into the remaining space of the magnet holes and let that dry.
2. Used my remaining magnets to pencil a circle around where they were int he frame.
3. Dabbed a thick dot of white paint in each of the circled magnet spots.
4.. Then I took the frame with the paint dots and set it on my faceshell and removed it; now I can see where my magnets should go on the shell.
(I had already lined up the frames and traced them onto the shell to make sure I set it down properly.)
5. I took my dremel to the shell, made the settings, and sealed them with glue (I think the magnets might otherwise just strip off because the spackle isn't strong enough without the glue to hold it together).
6. Same process as before with the magnets and epoxy putty; make sure you face them all so they connect to the frames! Also, don't test the frames on the shell until everything is dry!
7. The lenses are just perforated vinyl attached to a thin acetate sheet. I had to make a few snippets on the edges so it could curve. Here they are just pressed against the shell with the magnets. I will attach them for real after I paint my frames pink and seal them!
I also have a sheet of thicker plastic that I might experiment with to try to get a dome shape, but that will depend on whether or not I can find something to cut it with...
IndridColdx
Active Member
Well done.
stigmorgan
Sr Member
Very nice work.
SpideyQueue
Member
Coming along wicked girl! What do you have in mind to get the domed lens look??
lewhitewizard
New Member
whoa, the face shell looks great!
HendoArt
Active Member
I'm not sure yet. I have thicker plastic that I can form with a heat cut, but I don't have a means of cutting out the shape yet. I also have a splatter screen and I might give that a go, since it seems thin enough to shape and will at least avoid the fogging issue.
HendoArt
Active Member
Forgot to post the rough cost estimate for what I made (although I'm not sure anyone cares). While making the faceshell is cheaper, just buying the frames is probably cheaper in the long run if you only need one pair. But my pride wanted to give this a shot and I'm so small that custom is probably the way to go for now. Plus I'd like to try making alternate expressions for my mask.
Frames (Basic)
Sculpey (8oz.): $7.50 <-- I can easily make like 6 uniform frames out of this, more using scraps
Neodymium Magnets (20): $10.00
Epoxy Quick Set: $4.50
TOTAL: $22.00
Frames (Extra stuff for going HAM)
Epoxy Putty: $4.50
Plasti-Dip: $7.00
Magenta Spray Paint: $9.00
Clear Coat: $8.00 (cheaper other places)
TOTAL: $28.00
Lenses Options
One-way Perforated Vinyl: $19.00 (find a place that sells less, my only option was buying like 6ft of this...)
Acetate Sheets: You can just find this free anywhere, like a sheet protector or binder
Splatter Screen (2): $8.00
Reflective Vinyl: $7.00
A dremel isn't really necessary if you don't have one, but you will have to make a setting in the sculpey before baking it and smooth it out as much as possible beforehand. If you just need the bit, it's $9 at home depot and ultra worth it.
Frames (Basic)
Sculpey (8oz.): $7.50 <-- I can easily make like 6 uniform frames out of this, more using scraps
Neodymium Magnets (20): $10.00
Epoxy Quick Set: $4.50
TOTAL: $22.00
Frames (Extra stuff for going HAM)
Epoxy Putty: $4.50
Plasti-Dip: $7.00
Magenta Spray Paint: $9.00
Clear Coat: $8.00 (cheaper other places)
TOTAL: $28.00
Lenses Options
One-way Perforated Vinyl: $19.00 (find a place that sells less, my only option was buying like 6ft of this...)
Acetate Sheets: You can just find this free anywhere, like a sheet protector or binder
Splatter Screen (2): $8.00
Reflective Vinyl: $7.00
A dremel isn't really necessary if you don't have one, but you will have to make a setting in the sculpey before baking it and smooth it out as much as possible beforehand. If you just need the bit, it's $9 at home depot and ultra worth it.
SpideyQueue
Member
The perforated 2 way vinyl you can find at any sign supply store. They usually sell it by the yard and comes 4ft in width. Plenty for making lenses .
For you sitting issues, invest in a solid pair of scissors. Mine can cut through 1/8 lexan and polycarbonate like a hot knife through butter so it's well worth the 1 time investment.
Can't wait to see how your lenses turn out. That's been what I've gotten stuck on as of late.
HendoArt
Active Member
That sounds perfect, I think my plastic is about 1/8". Do you know what kind of scissors they are? I have some that cut through my splatter screen, but not the thick plastic. And not like butter, more like a baboon hitting a coconut against a rock until it splits, lol
HendoArt
Active Member
Here is a shot of the shell with my swatch stretched over it again. I can see where some of my holes weren't sanded smoothly enough and tested breathing through it. Definitely going to add at least two more of the bigger holes! I also think that the paint webbing I add might help hide the holes which you can kind of see through the white.
Also tore up this backpack to make it a more uniform design. Hard to find because regular backpacks look huge on me (otherwise I'd get a damn Jansport). The straps are brown in the comic, just shaded black here. The side pockets are supposed to be black mesh but I don't feel like being that intense about it; just happy I can carry my stuff while in cosplay! I'm calling this one close enough!
Lenses are the mission tomorrow night, but I have like 13 hours of class tomorrow so that's a hard maybe.
Also tore up this backpack to make it a more uniform design. Hard to find because regular backpacks look huge on me (otherwise I'd get a damn Jansport). The straps are brown in the comic, just shaded black here. The side pockets are supposed to be black mesh but I don't feel like being that intense about it; just happy I can carry my stuff while in cosplay! I'm calling this one close enough!
Lenses are the mission tomorrow night, but I have like 13 hours of class tomorrow so that's a hard maybe.
IndridColdx
Active Member
So are you wearing the lycra over the faceshell?
Or are you going to glue it on and make it separate?
Or are you going to glue it on and make it separate?
SpideyQueue
Member
I'll get you pictures and the brand this week when I'm back at the shop!
HendoArt
Active Member
I'm definitely going with a detachable lycra mask over the faceshell instead of gluing it on. I mostly wanted to test breathing through the lycra and check smoothness
Awesome, thank you!
HendoArt
Active Member
Update: Spider-Man Lenses and Lens Methods
Alright, so I tried out a lot of different things and think I've come up with an idiot-proof way of doing these Spider-Man/Gwen lenses. But I will talk about all the processes anyway from easiest to hardest.
Acetate and Vinyl Method
1. I've covered this in earlier posts, but here it is again.
2. You can find an acetate sheet on anything (sheet protector, binder cover, etc.)
3. Cut it out according to your frame shape.
4. Stick the vinyl on it.
5. Cut a little tick into the edge in some places to help it curve better.
Splatter Screen Method (Avoids fogging!)
1. Like I said, you can buy this anywhere, like a grocery store and you actually don't need heavy scissors to cut it.
2. You can dome them (picture 2 & 3), but I found that this was more trouble than it's worth. I actually snapped by left pair trying to dome and fit them to the frames; not worth it (epoxy fixed them, they snapped cleanly unlike my other pair that got crushed)
3. The better method is to just cut them normally and curve them to fit the frame; this takes like 30 seconds.
4. Cut several pairs; it takes about 3 layers to make them opaque, but you can still see out of them just fine.
5. Then you'll spray paint them whatever color you want on the outside (Picture 4 is this method, white); black on the inside.
Plastic Sheet Method (Need Heat Gun, Heavy Scissors, and Gloves)
1. You can get this at a hardware store. I realized too late that mine didn't have great clarity, so ask someone about that before you buy!
2. Start with a rectangular piece; it's easier to shape than one that is already cut to your frame shape.
3. The plastic looks frosted, but turns clearer when heated; use the "Low" setting.
4. You'll start to see the edges curl up as it warms, but keep warming until they sort of melt back down.
5. You're gonna have to do this quick (Picture 2): Once melty, grab your frame and put it on top of the plastic.
-- You'll want to first dome it in a little bit with your fingers using a smooth circular motion (big red arrow).
-- Then hold the plastic against the frame to make sure it will sit flat against the frame (blue arrow).
-- A good way to ensure this is to use the excess as leverage, pull it against the frame so it becomes flush.
(This will probably result it in coming up past the level of the frame (small red arrow) but that's okay since we can cut it off.)
6. The heat from the plastic will melt the frames a little, so I warmed the plastic up again a little and pressed all of it against my faceshell to get the form back.
7. Flip it around to mark where we cut off the excess. I didn't take a picture of how it looks after you clean it but you get it.
8. Throw some perforated vinyl on it.
Comparisons
Below are all the different methods I tried:
Vinyl & Plastic: to me, this effort isn't worth it. Would be amazing if I had a vacuum former, but trying to do it this way is just a pain in the ass that also requires a de-fogger. However, I do think it photographs the best.
Vinyl & Acetate: least effort and looks awesome! You can't really see your eyes through it anyway, but a layer of reflective vinyl at the bottom layer would make it perfect.
Splatter Screen (flat): doming isn't worth it (just to me), but the flat method is really painless. It is only more complicated because you need to paint the mesh. I think this one actually looks the best in person, but it requires you to make sure you used the same grain pattern in both ones. You can see here that the left one I did well, but the right one I photographs with slight vertical shades; that's because it didn't cross my mind to match the grain patterns with the other lens. Either way, it looks good in person but tends to photograph kind of strangely.
Vinyl & Mesh: So I actually prefer a combination of splatter and vinyl. All you need to do is cut out one flat splatter screen layer and stick a piece of perforated vinyl on top of it. If it's still a little sticky on the backside, that can be fixed when you paint the mesh black on the inside. It helps with breathability and avoids fogging. It photographs better than the other methods except plastic + vinyl. You also only need one layer of the mesh and it is the most opaque; adding a layer of mesh didn't do anything noticeable.
So yeah, vinyl and mesh are going to be my lens of choice, but I'm sure others would choose differently. I haven't tried krayzielilsmoki's method yet (http://www.therpf.com/f78/diy-domed-spiderman-lenses-236016/), but I might try that out for when I want a nice picture. Doming looks way better, I am just hardcore about hating fogging and assisting breathing lol. Still, hope this helps anyone else out there who is as clueless about these materials as I was 4 hours ago, lol.
Last edited:
