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  1. RPF Premium Member roygilsing's Avatar
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    Jan 31, 2015, 10:16 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #76

    Nice work David!!
    I think you did an excellent job on gluing the T-tracks!
    I would go for the vintage part; has a better finish imo.
    Or you keep them loosely connected until you find a better part


    Roy

    www.wannawanga.com
  2. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Jan 31, 2015, 11:00 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #77

    Go for the vintage for now since that Parks has the D-ring in the wrong place ... here's how it looks much better on the original :



    behind the screw ... and best to try this for your vintage shroud as well. Carefully drill a smaller hole than you actually need and
    use a small file to open the hole more gradually until the D fits

    Chaim
  3. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 31, 2015, 12:33 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #78

    Sym-Cha said: View Post
    Go for the vintage for now since that Parks has the D-ring in the wrong place ... here's how it looks much better on the original :

    http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...-Cha/MPP05.jpg

    behind the screw ... and best to try this for your vintage shroud as well. Carefully drill a smaller hole than you actually need and
    use a small file to open the hole more gradually until the D fits

    Chaim
    I think I recall a post where either you or @parfaitelumiere mentioned that the D-ring that Parks uses is incorrect?b Or it might have been a comment you made in intwenothor's Vader build on dented helmet...

    Any idea as to where I can get an accurate one?

    - - - Updated - - -

    roygilsing said: View Post
    Nice work David!!
    I think you did an excellent job on gluing the T-tracks!
    I would go for the vintage part; has a better finish imo.
    Or you keep them loosely connected until you find a better part


    Roy

    www.wannawanga.com
    Thanks Roy! I forgot to tell you that I got my Kobold clip and rivets... finishing off my Luke ESB Graflex conversion will be next up to bat!
  4. RPF Premium Member scottjua's Avatar
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    Jan 31, 2015, 4:12 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #79

    I'd try to repaint the parks one... I need to research the crinkle finish though, as I know nothing about it. But at least doing that you have the option... and can re-drill the parks hole for the D ring.

    I was also thinking about the T tracks... I was going to use a 1/2" strip of VHB 5 mil tape to hold them in place while the epoxy cured. They don't need the whole length exoxied, and the fhb holds super mega strong anyway... Actually... maybe the tape is enough on it's own. Hmmmm
  5. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Jan 31, 2015, 4:52 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #80

    Well . . . if you like intwenothor's MPP build on the dented helmet of which I'm not a member by the way . . . that's one of my last 'matt' D-rings
    http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f45/d...p-build-51309/ ... I have one left. Although a shiny one could be used as well as I did on my own MPP :



    I have several of those left too but they need to be widened a bit to look as in above picture

    Chaim
  6. SpeedRacerx's Avatar
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    Feb 1, 2015, 7:43 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #81

    I literally logged on to the boards this morning to try to find a template to assemble my T-Tracks as well, (ANH Build). Do you have a link for it Edraven99 ?
    I also have an "incorrect" two-step shroud. But it's the original to my Heiland, so I'm thinking about keeping it and possibly finding a new way to incorporate the D-Ring with the set-screw, which is missing from my shroud... Does anyone know where I could find JUST the set screw? As in, what type it is or what a good replacement could be? Besides scrounging for shrouds and parts off of ebay.

    As for your MPP Edraven99 it's looking awesome! I think you should keep with the original
    Last edited by SpeedRacerx; Feb 1, 2015 at 7:46 AM. Reason: quote loaded incorrectly
  7. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Feb 1, 2015, 11:12 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #82

    Sym-Cha said: View Post
    Well . . . if you like intwenothor's MPP build on the dented helmet of which I'm not a member by the way . . . that's one of my last 'matt' D-rings
    http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f45/d...p-build-51309/ ... I have one left. Although a shiny one could be used as well as I did on my own MPP :

    http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...90820_6692.jpg

    I have several of those left too but they need to be widened a bit to look as in above picture

    Chaim
    If you have an extra to spare I'd definitely take one! I was just going to canibalize the Parks D-ring, but his is more elongated in the middle where yours is more rounded, which I'll assume is more accurate?
  8. RPF Premium Member thd9791's Avatar
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    Feb 1, 2015, 11:15 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #83

    scottjua said: View Post
    I'd try to repaint the parks one... I need to research the crinkle finish though, as I know nothing about it. But at least doing that you have the option... and can re-drill the parks hole for the D ring.

    I was also thinking about the T tracks... I was going to use a 1/2" strip of VHB 5 mil tape to hold them in place while the epoxy cured. They don't need the whole length exoxied, and the fhb holds super mega strong anyway... Actually... maybe the tape is enough on it's own. Hmmmm
    Check out my ESB Vader thread for how automotive wrinkle finish works. With enough heat it creates an extremely small wrinkle pattern that, up close, looks like fingerprints.
  9. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Feb 1, 2015, 11:20 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #84

    SpeedRacerx said: View Post
    I literally logged on to the boards this morning to try to find a template to assemble my T-Tracks as well, (ANH Build). Do you have a link for it Edraven99 ?

    As for your MPP Edraven99 it's looking awesome! I think you should keep with the original
    Thanks SpeedRacerx! I unfortunately don't know about the set screw, though I think I did see one on Ebay... I'll see if I can find a link for you... As for the grip template, here you go:

    http://www.partsofsw.com

    Just go to their downloads section. Oh and I'd actually download the pdf file... There seems to be an issue with the sizing if you try to print directly off the site.
  10. Member Since
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    Feb 1, 2015, 1:44 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #85

    I just did my t track by eye.
  11. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Feb 1, 2015, 5:24 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #86

    @ Edraven99 and Speedracerx ... I can provide you both with your request

    Chaim
  12. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Feb 2, 2015, 11:46 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #87

    Sym-Cha said: View Post
    @ Edraven99 and Speedracerx ... I can provide you both with your request

    Chaim
    Awesome! Thanks Chaim! PM sent!
  13. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Feb 4, 2015, 4:48 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #88

    intwenothor said: View Post
    I just did my t track by eye.
    You know... if you ever decide to make another EE-3... I might know a guy who knows a guy who has an incorrect shroud and clamp that would be willing to buy those parts from you... just saying
  14. RPF Premium Member Darth Lars's Avatar
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    Feb 6, 2015, 10:04 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #89

    thd9791 said: View Post
    Check out my ESB Vader thread for how automotive wrinkle finish works. With enough heat it creates an extremely small wrinkle pattern that, up close, looks like fingerprints.
    I found that the thickness of the paint makes a difference to how large the wrinkles get. To get a really thin layer, I rigged up a record player to rotate it at a steady speed. I started spraying to the side of the shroud and moved the spray over. That gave me very small wrinkles in a somewhat consistent size.
  15. RPF Premium Member thd9791's Avatar
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    Feb 6, 2015, 10:19 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #90

    See, I thought of using a lazy susan, but couldn't figure out how to get the perpendicular spray. To be more specific, the instructions said spray in 3 different directions and the turntable covers one hahaha <confused>
  16. SpeedRacerx's Avatar
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    Feb 11, 2015, 6:54 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #91

    Sym-Cha said: View Post
    @ Edraven99 and Speedracerx ... I can provide you both with your request

    Chaim
    While I am waiting for my parts from Chaim to arrive.... and while we are on the subject of painting, I have a Clamp from YodasHouse, except it isn't painted. Before I go find a can of black Rustoleum, has anyone painted one of these clamps before? Any suggestions or know what exact color I should use?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by SpeedRacerx; Feb 11, 2015 at 6:55 AM. Reason: Added photo
  17. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Feb 11, 2015, 12:54 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #92

    I'd say black, can be gloss or semi-gloss and leave the sidebars and lever silver as is for ANH

    Chaim
  18. RPF Premium Member thd9791's Avatar
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    Feb 11, 2015, 11:55 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #93

    Yep, I have that exact clamp, and i just used a semi-gloss rustoleum. Two light coats. My sidebars were poorly shaped, so I took a grinding wheel to them and made my own bevel
  19. SpeedRacerx's Avatar
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    Feb 12, 2015, 7:09 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #94

    thd9791 said: View Post
    Yep, I have that exact clamp, and i just used a semi-gloss rustoleum. Two light coats. My sidebars were poorly shaped, so I took a grinding wheel to them and made my own bevel
    Thanks thd9791 and Chaim. That's what I was looking for. Good to know a semi-gloss black will look ok.
  20. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Feb 12, 2015, 11:35 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #95

    SpeedRacerx said: View Post
    Thanks thd9791 and Chaim. That's what I was looking for. Good to know a semi-gloss black will look ok.
    Because of the way the black paint on my real MPP clamp faded, I'd almost be tempted to take a black sharpie to it, though I'd have no idea how to make it a) look even and b) keep the ink from rubbing off....
  21. SpeedRacerx's Avatar
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    Feb 12, 2015, 11:40 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #96

    Edraven99 said: View Post
    Because of the way the black paint on my real MPP clamp faded, I'd almost be tempted to take a black sharpie to it, though I'd have no idea how to make it a) look even and b) keep the ink from rubbing off....
    I don't know if I'm ballsy enough to do that... But maybe throw a clear coat over the sharpie then wet sand it down. I guess i'll stick to the semi-gloss and maybe fade it down a bit. My build is not 100% accurate. Using a Heiland and keeping the Heiland original shroud.
  22. RPF Premium Member NeoRutty's Avatar
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    Feb 12, 2015, 12:18 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #97

    I would leave as is, but if you ARE going to do anything, I would use a light coat of spray paint like they were talking above...

    Something about sharpie doesn't sound right.
  23. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jul 19, 2015, 1:29 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #98

    Hey gang,

    Time for a loooong overdue update....

    As I mentioned over on Scottja's Graflex comparison thread, I managed to pick up another 3-cell for a fairly reasonable price - reasonable being a subjective term but definitely well below the $300-$400+ that they seem to be going for atm!

    However, as I also mentioned, it was in a bit of rough shape with noticeable pitting and corrosion in the pictures of when I bought it. But thanks to some helpful advice from Mugatu and Probe Droid and a little baking soda and vinegar, I think I've managed to clean it up half decently:

    Before:
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    As you can see, the 3-cell bottom is actually in slightly better shape than the top - most of the acid corrosion damage is hidden by the clamp where as there's that ring right in the middle of the top where the acid has eaten away at the nickle plating.

    This works well for me since I was mainly after the bottom anyways...

    Now I have a bit of dilemma. My other 3-cell that I was planning to use for my Luke ESB build is in pristine condition, but, the stamping on it isn't ideal since the Kobold clip would obscure both the "New York" and the "Folmer" on it when installed.

    However, the placement of the stamp on this new Graflex is slightly better and neither the "New York" nor the "Folmer" would be obscured.

    So... do I use the pitted 3-cell bottom with my otherwise pristine Graflex for my build, or keep using my pristine bottom? I think the T-Tracks will cover up most of the damage, but there would still be some pitting visible from what I can tell.

    What do you guys think?

    Oh and for the sake of full disclosure... here's the other project I've been working on that's been keeping me away from my builds. It's not quite screen accurate... but I'm happy with it

    Click image for larger version. 

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  24. RPF Premium Member mugatu's Avatar
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    Jul 19, 2015, 5:40 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #99

    David, great job on the cleaning.
    Regarding the dilemma, I would use the bottom tube with the better placed stamping for the ESB. Almost half of the metal finish is obscured because of the grips, and I think a side by side of the two bottoms with grips on them would show very minimal difference. The bottoms on the other hand would show a vast difference to those whom it would matter to. That's my opinion anyway.

    I am planning on revisiting my ESB and possibly extending the notch grooves of my bottom tube to have better placement of the stamping. This would be my first recommendation to you though, if you wanted to go that far. Then you'd use both original pristine pieces. Of course, I am also crazy, impatient, and reckless...so this may not be a good path for everyone!

    In either case, both bottoms look good to me.
  25. RPF Premium Member Panaflex's Avatar
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    Jul 19, 2015, 10:09 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #100

    Nice to see an update on this set of builds.

    I think if you've got the elusive New York Folmer with a sweet spot, go for it.
    It'll bring a smile to your face every time you see it.

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