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  1. RPF Premium Member thd9791's Avatar
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    Jan 10, 2015, 3:25 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #51

    It hanks Roy! To me, they look extremely deformed, melted even not cracked or bent. See how the edges are up away from the graflex and the shape is squashed? My first thought is that some track was cast, and these poorly. I could be wrong

    also, that screw (or rivet) closest to us in that shot IS farther from the fin, but only on one side. The other is in line with it, I think that screw is just off center.
  2. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 12, 2015, 11:15 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #52

    A minor update to the Vader build...

    Since my MPP clamp is missing the pin that holds the lever in place (you can see in my previous pictures that it obviously broke somehow and someone replaced it with a teeny tiny cotter pin) , I figured that I'd pirate the pin from the Parks clamp that I bought to complete the Vader ESB look.

    I also figured that it would be a quick and easy job to do... of course it wasn't.

    While tapping out the pin from the replica Parks clamp lever was relatively straightforward and easy, the cotter pin on the real lever was wedged in pretty good and it tool a little more effort than I was anticipating to finally hammer and pull the pin out far enough so that I could remove the lever from the clamp base:



    All that was left to do now was to take the clamp pin and insert it into the real base... simple, right? Nope... of course not.... turns out that the real pin was a little thinner than the replica that Parks made so it wouldn't fit into the hole. So I took out my handy hobby file and started to try and shave some material away so that it would fit.

    Kids, let me tell you how much of a pain in the ass it is to try and file something that small. It took a little patience, but I finally got the pin down to a size small enough that I could hammer it through. It was worth it, however, as the results speaks for itself:



    A minor victory, but I'm happy with it.

    Now I need all of your opinions... I'm still working on a way around my clamp sleeve issue, and I *think* I may have found a solution....

    How does this look look to all of you?

  3. RPF Premium Member thd9791's Avatar
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    Jan 12, 2015, 11:24 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #53

    Nice work! especially on something that tiny.

    Are those like..O rings? I thought you found a sleeve for a second, and that little bit of glue residue just adds to the image. I like it!
  4. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2015, 8:28 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #54

    Very nice indeed

    As for the ridge you've created on the edge of the clamp instead of a real plastic sleeve . . . it's a tid bit to high in my opinion ... it should hardly be visible.



    So do tell what did you use?

    Chaim
    Last edited by Sym-Cha; Jan 13, 2015 at 9:03 AM.
  5. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2015, 7:06 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #55

    Sym-Cha said: View Post
    So do tell what did you use?
    Chaim
    Well, before I received my clamp from Parks, impatient boy that I am, I tried to look for other solutions to my sleeve problem. So, I went and bought a Master Replicas Force FX clamp off of Ebay.

    Unfortunately, it was a solid plastic piece and did not separate into a clamp and sleeve part. For those of you kids who are thinking about trying this at home , what I've learned is the first Vader Force FX that Master Replicas came out with, an ESB version, came with a clamp that *did* separate into component parts. The clamp that I purchased was a "newer" ANH version, which did not.

    Anyways, after I found out that my real MPP clamp could not take a sleeve underneath it, I tried to think of other solutions; one of these is what you saw in the picture. I sawed off the raised ends to that MR Force FX clamp.

    It looks pretty good I think. The two problems that I can see are


    1. I'll have to glue the rings directly to the clamp or the flash in order for this to work
    2. As Chaim pointed out, the raised ridges are slightly too tall


    Which leads me to...

    thd9791 said: View Post
    Are those like..O rings?
    My wife had actually suggested the exact same thing... so I went out and bought a pair to see what it would look like.

    Exhibit A (plastic rings):


    Or Exhibit B (O-Rings):


    I'm leaning towards the O-Rings at the moment simply because I don't have to mess with any gluing, and although it's tough to tell from the pictures, it has a slightly lower profile than the plastic rings...

    So once again... what do you guys think?
  6. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2015, 8:07 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #56

    I suppose you've read about those 135 mm black film canisters used to hold negative or slide 135mm film for analog cameras ... of which you would need at least 2 just for the plastic edge in your case, unless they do totally fit better underneath your clamp than your Parks sleeve?

    Chaim
  7. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2015, 10:46 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #57

    Sym-Cha said: View Post
    I suppose you've read about those 135 mm black film canisters used to hold negative or slide 135mm film for analog cameras ... of which you would need at least 2 just for the plastic edge in your case, unless they do totally fit better underneath your clamp than your Parks sleeve?

    Chaim
    Nah... the Parks sleeve is literally a millimeter thick... I don't think I'll be able to fit anything under this particular clamp. The only thing I can do is try to "fake" it...
  8. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2015, 11:15 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #58

    Here's a comparative picture with the Parks sleeve to give you a better idea of the ridge height in comparison to the O-rings

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. RPF Premium Member thd9791's Avatar
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    Jan 13, 2015, 11:40 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #59

    The O rings actually look better, in my taste. Do they wrap fully around the tube, and if so, how does the bubble-strip side look with a continuous black rim behind it? Since the sleeve stops before then
  10. RPF Premium Member roygilsing's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 2:28 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #60

    I would go for the O-rings! No gluing needed and it is pretty smart, very Prop-maker-like. Besides, you will give you're wife a good "you see I also helped a bit"-feeling
    You might try to sand them a bit, so they're not too glossy.


    Roy

    www.wannawanga.com
  11. RPF Premium Member Marv's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 2:33 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #61

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Every time I look at this picture I keep thinking this saber is painted with black on one half?
  12. SpeedRacerx's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 7:50 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #62

    I gotta say, I like the look of those O-rings, original or not. They almost look like they're meant to be there. Like Roy said, very maker-like. Thumbs up!
  13. Chris RPF Premium Member teecrooz's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 7:51 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #63

    Hi David,

    They do sell square profile O rings. Just another option for you.

    http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...x&cPath=367_98
  14. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 9:30 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #64

    @ Marv ... yeah I too think that MPP almost has a two tone paint scheme : black and white
    @ teecrooz great find
    @ Edraven99 those O-ring look good enough. Your clamp seems to have a red hue compared
    to Parks black sleeve, correct?

    Chaim
  15. RPF Premium Member NeoRutty's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 12:20 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #65

    teecrooz said: View Post
    Hi David,

    They do sell square profile O rings. Just another option for you.

    http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...x&cPath=367_98
    "I'm going to open a store that sells just o-rings"

    "But... What else?... I mean you can't just sell o-rings... Maybe open a plumbing parts store?"

    "Nope! O-rings! Rubber gold! That's the ticket!"
  16. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 4:26 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #66

    thd9791 said: View Post
    The O rings actually look better, in my taste. Do they wrap fully around the tube, and if so, how does the bubble-strip side look with a continuous black rim behind it? Since the sleeve stops before then
    Yup... the rings wrap fully around and to be completely honest, they do look a tad odd because they are essentially black bands floating across the gap.

    It won't be a big issue with the back one since the T-track will cover it up. What I'm hoping is that when I put in the bubbles, it will be less noticeable.

    I'll try to take a picture tonight and post it up...


    roygilsing said: View Post
    You might try to sand them a bit, so they're not too glossy.

    Roy
    That's good idea... I was thinking they might be a tad too glossy myself! Thanks Roy!


    Sym-Cha said: View Post
    Your clamp seems to have a red hue compared to Parks black sleeve, correct?
    Sort of... it's that tinge that black starts to get as it starts to fade... like when you have a black marker and it starts to dry out and what's coming out isn't quite black anymore...


    teecrooz said: View Post
    Hi David,

    They do sell square profile O rings. Just another option for you.

    http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...x&cPath=367_98
    Nice find Chris! Though I was under the impression that the raised ridges on the MPP clamp sleeve were more rounded than square. The ridges on my MR limited ANH Vader lightsaber are rounded... which is also why I was a little disappointed by the Parks replica sleeve because it looked a little too square...

    Can Chaim or @scottjua or @parfaitelumiere or someone else who has/had a real MPP chime in and confirm?
  17. RPF Premium Member parfaitelumiere's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 4:41 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #67

    The parks are quite good, really close, even not as rounded as real stuff, but it's not very noticeable.
    bout the red hue on clamp ring, yes, some real stuff has red hue on aluminum anodisation, unlike the parks or other replicas who have painted steel clamps.
    I was talking about a real-replica mpp and it's variation thread, but still didn't make it...
  18. RPF Premium Member scottjua's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 4:46 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #68

    My real sleeve is squared on the inside edge that touches the metal, and slightly rounded on the outside edge and top... so it looks mostly rounded.

    oh and BTW,.... mine came with a cotter pin too... not the parks style pin.
  19. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 4:52 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #69

    Certainly. Here's another picture from parfaitelumiere's plastic Micro Presicion Product sleeve :



    Chaim
  20. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 5:13 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #70

    Wow... that was a quick response... thanks guys!

    So based on Chaim's picture (especially looking at the bottom right corner ridge) and Scott's observations, it does look like the the top of the ridge is rounded so it's more of s "U" shape... so I think that the round O-ring might be the way to go in this instance....
  21. RPF Premium Member NeoRutty's Avatar
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    Jan 14, 2015, 5:19 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #71

    You could glue them down, then cut the area away between the gap... reglue the two ends of they aren't sitting flush...
  22. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 23, 2015, 3:30 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #72

    Another quick update on the Vader MPP build (well actually I finished this off last weekend but I haven't had the chance to post it!)

    Since I've been focusing on the clamp, I figured it was time to tackle the bubble strip.

    I started off first by taking the strip off the circuit board. For those of you two or three people on this board who have never done this before, it's a very easy thing to do. The strip itself has pegs that hold it to the board and those pegs are secured by a very thin layer of melted plastic. So all you have to do to remove the strip from the board is to pry off that melted plastic:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Next, because this is a Vader build, I needed to trim off one of the bubbles. Again, fairly easily done with my Exacto saw and mitre box though the plastic of the strip was a little denser than I was anticipating:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Again, since this is a Vader build, I still needed that circuit board, so I reattached the cut bubble strip to the board and used my trusty pencil to outline where I needed to cut.

    A word of advice to those attempting this build in he future, that circuit board is deceptively tough despite how thin it is. I originally used a fine-toothed saw and it took me forever and a more than a bit of elbow grease to to cut through it. Once I switched over to a coarser saw, it was a lot easier.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The next step then was to file off those pegs along with the small ledges that run along the length of the the bubble strip. I was originally hoping that I wouldn't have to file off the ledges, but they definitely make the strip too thick for the clamp.

    This was done by carefully running the entire length of the strip across the surface of a flat file. Every now and then I flipped the orientation around just to make sure I was applying the same amount of pressure across the entire length of the strip so that I could file it down as evenly as possible.

    And here's the end result:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I didn't realize it until I was looking at Kurtyboy's Vader MPP ESB, but the circuit board needs to be turned around in order to achieve that accurate "tear-drop" look.

    Now my bubble strip isn't completely 100% accurate, in order for it to be, the bubbles need to go under the clamp. But as you can see from the third picture, I either need to really file down the bubble strip, or take a pair of pliers to the clamp and really crank on it like it looks like the original prop makers did in order to make it all fit, which I don't think I'm inclined to do.

    What do you guys think?
    Last edited by Edraven99; Jan 23, 2015 at 3:35 PM.
  23. Sym-Cha's Avatar
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    Jan 23, 2015, 4:10 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #73

    I think it sits perfectly and most probably the propmakers had to crimp the clamp edges around the bubbles because the lever had been broken of 'Plastic sleeve' -O-rings look great by the way

    Chaim
  24. RPF Premium Member parfaitelumiere's Avatar
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    Jan 26, 2015, 1:18 PM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #74

    good bubble strip and right version, however you will have to make grooves on the bubble itself so it will fill the room in the clamp.
    I have to do same on mine but still didn't think about it, it's the only thing to do on my vader saber then it will be finished.
    About the clamp I would better choose the parks sleeve.
  25. RPF Premium Member Edraven99's Avatar
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    Jan 31, 2015, 11:09 AM - Re: Edraven99's Real Parts Lightsaber Build Thread #75

    Almost there on the Vader!

    Next of course was gluing on the T-tracks. Ok... this was a bigger pain in the ass than I was anticipating....

    Because the the flash tube is a smooth rounded surface, the T-tracks had a tendency of sliding when trying to line them up, so the only thing you could do at times was a visual alignment. And there really isn't a way of clamping the track down to the tube to try and get a tighter seal while the epoxy was setting; anything I tried - rubber bands, padded c-clamp, etc. - just pulled the track out of alignment as soon as any pressure was applied.

    This is especially problematic on the MPP because of the raised end cap. I was hoping to try to minimize the gap between the raised edge of the cap and the tube itself as much as possible... but in the end all I could settle for was to line everything up and just let the epoxy cure the tracks in place.

    I started off by downloading a grip template off of PoSW and using that and some painters tape to give a rough visual as to where all the grips should go. Then it was simply a case of epoxying everything into place:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That last top T-track was the one that I hated doing the most. Not because it was more difficult or anything like that, but it covered up the cool military serial number on my MPP... but there was nothing that could be done about it. But with that last track in place, T-tracks are done!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Only one last thing to do and one last bit of advice needed from all of you on this build:

    Stick with the original but incorrect two-step shroud keeping everything as original parts as possible, or go with the replica Parks shroud which would be more accurate prop wise?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What say you all?

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