1/6 Scale Spinner Model

OK I'l say it...

Kit???

Thank you. I appreciate your encouragement. I would be happy to consider offering a very limited run of kits, possibly. But first, however, I need to build a prototype and then ruminate on how to best engineer and execute this model in kit form. At this point I do not want to make hollow promises. I will just say that I will consider it. :)
 
I have begun the printing of my G.I. Joe / Starsky and Hutch Spinner Project. So far, I have only done 3 parts of the bottom section. I am printing on a Projet 1500 printer, which uses a UV develop resin. The resolution is fair to good, depending on the part's orientation on the build platform. Part surfaces that are parallel to the resin tray develop without print lines. Angled and curvilinear surfaces, with respect to the platform, do show print lines at a resolution of 1024 x 768 on the XY and 0.004in. on the Z axis. For the most part this is sufficient and acceptable after I factor in material cost. I will, however, be doing a great deal of surface putty work and sanding. Due to the bounding box dimensions of this printer vs. the overall size of my model, it was necessary for me to divide up the entire car into printable sizes. I started with the bottom chassis by cutting it up into six sections with mating tabs. Once I have printed the sections for the bottom chassis, I will assemble, clean and prepare it as one complete sub-assembly piece that will later interlock with other consolidated sub-assembly parts. For now I only have the first three sections to show you. I apologize for the rough images. As I complete each of the planned sub-assemblies, I will take more care in documenting them.



 
if you ever decide to part with the model I would love to dismantle it to 3d print :) I have a hi res objet 24 and replicator 2 dialled to print really nice :)
 
Thank you very much for your kind offer. I will keep it in mind. For now, I will continue with the Projet 1500. It will be a lot of work for me regardless of the print resolution, since I am limited by the printers build platform size and my personal budget for this project. Each sub-assembly will be comprised of many printed parts that I will have to assemble, clean, mold, and cast. The final model's body will be built out of cast resin sub-assemblies that will interlock with one another around an internal frame. I have such a passion for this car that I do not mind the labor and expense. I will just need to stretch it out over time in order to see it ultimately hanging from the ceiling, lights and all.

Here are the printed parts for the bottom chassis panel sub-assembly, and what my budget will allow for now. As you can see, I have a lot of work ahead of me just for this one sub-assembly. I have begun filling imperfections and dimples with JB weld Kwik for now. I have ordered Smooth-on's new XTC-3D for 3D prints. They say it is good for removing print lines and is a self-leveling resin without run-off, which I will definitely need for the interior side of this panel. I will let you know how that goes.

 
I have assembled the bottom panel for molding. I still need to do some more clean-up on it, but its done for the most part. I will need to print a few separate detail parts for the centerline rear midsection. I lost the printed details in the parts during assembly of the six panel. I also prepped a couple of midsection side panels and the two rear propulsion vents.

 
Thank the Heavens:cool Update on the Spinner! I was about to bump this thread and BAM!! Great job Rick!!
 
Thank you, Joberg! I sincerely appreciate it. I wish I could throw all my time and resources into this one project now. I am so eager to finish it I can hardly stand it. But, I must continue to be patient with it and work on it when I can.

Rick
 
It's a apple to oranges comparison of the two packages. Although there is some overlap Solidworks is meant for a different audience primarily engineers. They are each in a different class. I make my living off of Solidworks. The comparison would not be fair or balanced. A better comparision would be Solidworks and Creo. You can definately use them side by side though. They can complement each other.


Great model of the spinner! I have Randy Coopers Spinner sitting in the box. I want to scan some of the parts to hollow them out in solidworks to make it easier for lighting. Then print them.
 
wow Cool rendering . love to see how it turns out . bet you finish before me. I'd be interested to compare solid works to the rhino model. I'm only printing mine with PLA filament printer so there will be tones of clean up and prep before moulding. http://www.therpf.com/f11/another-spinner-6th-scale-printed-228774/?highlight=6th+scale+spinner . keep the photos coming :)

Thank you very much! Your spinner project looks great! You're light years ahead of me, I can assure you. I am limited by my build platform's size on the Project 1500 printer that I am using, which means I have to chop my model up into printable sizes and then reassemble them, as well as, clean up the print lines. Based on your images, your PLA printer is doing a much better job than the Projet I am using. I have not had time or money to devote to it in a while. I have a kit of resin on order and hope to resume more prints very soon.

Regarding Rhino vs. Solidworks, I have never used Solidworks and cannot give an accurate comparison of the two. I do, however, work with AutoCAD and can say that they both are good programs. AutoCAD is the more expensive of the two, but Rhino can do a lot more than AutoCAD when it comes to producing more organic shapes. Rhino can be quirky and temperamental sometimes when it comes to creating complex surfaces. "Unexpected Results May Occur". Nevertheless, once you get used to it, Rhino is a good buy for only $900.00. I would say,though, that Solid Works is more powerful than Rhino, and can do curvilinear shapes like the spinner, in addition to being a powerful engineering geared software. I would really Like to learn it.
 
Regarding Rhino vs. Solidworks, I've been lucky that my work bought Solid works for me as its £7000. its ridiculously expensive. Most of the people I work with use Rhino so I need to bight the bullet and learn it at some point. Please keep in touch I'd love to see how yours turns out. It looks like we both have the same bed size and have divided up out models in the same way. The hardest bit for me will be the finishing. At the moment mine is hot glued together so it not permenant wile I decide wether is going to be a limited kit to cove coasts or a one off. I'd like to make a kit as I have friend I know would want one like my old boss Richard Yuricich.

But this means finishing the parts as mouldable sections before putting it together. this has the advantage of removing the PLA from the final model as no one know what that is like over a long time ( distortion wise ) but first off I have to finish printing all the parts. As you know this is not cheep. and my average part take 24 hours. we should get together when it come to the electronics, not something I'm good at.

All the best Crissy
 
Agreed. You are absolutely right. This project in 1/6 scale is formidable on all levels, especially printing the parts in such a large scale. Then comes the assembly phase. Considering that the print medium could shrink and warp over time, it would be best to design and build the printed parts into sub-assemblies that can be moulded and cast in a more durable and stable resin. These resin sub-assemblies would then need to be built around a central core structure within the chassis that could properly support the weight of the finished model in all modes of display (hanging from wires, supported on rods, etc.) The same forces that would affect a suspended 1:1 scale spinner would also affect this smaller version. It will want to twist, contort, and deflect in the same way if the weight of the sub-assembly parts is not properly transferred on to a core structure. This process of moulding and casting usable resin part will add a tremendous expense to the project, but it is a worthy investment if we want our models to last for decades to come. Painting and wiring will also be high hurtles to jump, but building a structurally sound and well supported model that can be assembled, and disassembled if necessary, by screws will be the most important thing to do. As far as wiring is concerned, I too will have to consult an expert. Still, the end result will be well worth our time and money, I believe. It will be a learning experience for certain.

Rick
 
As someone who is attempting so MANY Blade Runner items in this scale, I LOVE this. Even if this is the ONLY one that ever gets made, its cool as hades!!!!
 
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