DL-44 ESB Blaster Discussion - Greeblies POST 208
- Thread starter Boba Debt
- Start date
Starchaser
New Member
Hey Chubs, While looking at your awesome Hoth build pictures, I noticed the improved look of the Magazine detail on the underside. I checked some other threads and saw how you used the template to create some of the additional detail (mine is on its ways from Shapeways - thanks for uploading there), but how are you getting the look of the “press button” mag release? I have one of your earlier builds with the countersunk hole and was hoping I could upgrade it myself. Can you share how you do it, as I don't see any reference to it other than using the modified Allen key to mark the center position? Thanks.
Guys...the black knob is not covering the philips-screws IMHO.
You can clearly see the top and lower right screw sitting on the disc with the black knob being attached in the center, NOT overlapping the screws...otherwise the black chipped paint vs. glue residue wouldn´t be explainable
just a scetch done on my phone...(the yellow circle for the top screw ist shifted to the left, sorry)
You can clearly see the top and lower right screw sitting on the disc with the black knob being attached in the center, NOT overlapping the screws...otherwise the black chipped paint vs. glue residue wouldn´t be explainable
just a scetch done on my phone...(the yellow circle for the top screw ist shifted to the left, sorry)
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Ya of course! Sorry I guess I didn’t go over that part. It’s a pretty easy solution and it works out really well. I’m constantly trying to improve my builds so when I started modifying this part on the denix..
So after I did this I realized I had a little bit left over which would work great as the “press button” on the mag. Using that exact template you got off my shapeways page I found the center and then marked it by using a center punch.
Next I drilled into it using a drill roughly the same size as the bolt. To make the hole bigger around it I used a drill bit like this one..
Here u can see the uncut bolt sitting in the drilled out hole..
Once I know how much to cut off I just make that cut. Make sure to use tape on the small end when cutting or there is a good chance you’ll lose it. Then just use a dab (to much and it will get messy) of epoxy to hold it in place..
Once finished the bottom of the blaster should looks like this [emoji106]
While the top sight on the denix can also be modified to look like this..
Hope this helps [emoji482]
Here is a link to said mentioned mag plate stencil thread for those that might be interested..
•Magazine Release plate ENGRAVER STENCIL
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Its definitely possible and I’ve considered this as well but what I think u’re seeing is not the actual screw but snow maybe??
If it was the screw itself if would be directly on top. Not forward and off to the left?
Ii IS in the area you marked...I just couldn't draw precisely on my small phone display, when I posted my edited pic, hence my comment about the yellow circle being shifted to the left
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Ii IS in the area you marked...I just couldn't draw precisely on my small phone display, when I posted my edited pic, hence my comment about the yellow circle being shifted to the left
You mean to the right?? Still tough to see any screw up top. The bottom you can make out a possible screw (maybe snow as well). But it’s anyone guess with this pic so who knows
I agree to DISagree
I was the first who said the knurling on the fh was drawn on and nobody shared my opinion...well, I was right *hehe*
Now I say the -missing- knob is/ was just the size of the inner circle with the 3 screw being visible around the greeblie. The few available reference pictures AND the yellowish "glue residue" in the center of the disc support this theory IMHO :cool
Proof me wrong, happy to be it as long as the discussion brings us closer to nail down the details of the actual prop.
Same. I don’t care about being right, just raising questions while looking for answers. [emoji482]
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
Well I've been saying for a long time no that the base of the knob only covered the inner part within the screws. However my belief differs is that I think the knob was more of a mushroom shape (stem base and larger head). I'm not staking any money on that. The main reason I was leaning that way was because when you look at the image of Han firing the blaster, the knob seems to have a larger head. May just be an illusion but I'm staying open minded.
Starchaser
New Member
Thanks so much for the additional mag plate custom detail and providing the clear pictures I can use as a guide. Your work is inspiring!
Thank you [emoji482]
I bugged Boba Debt about some paint problems because my blaster BBQ paint was rubbing off a bit.
I did wet sand it, but not with alcohol! I also didn't heat it up too much - since I wanted the greebles to be painted the same color, and was afraid of melting the plastic!
I did wet sand it, but not with alcohol! I also didn't heat it up too much - since I wanted the greebles to be painted the same color, and was afraid of melting the plastic!
Boba Debt
Master Member
I use the Rustolium BBQ Black (because it is matte as opposed to Black which is semi gloss). I use a heat gun to heat the parts prior to, during and after they are painted.
I also burnish the paint with cloth rags which gives it a deep luster and removes most of the loose paint.
But I still get some rub off if I handle a part of the blaster that isn't burnished enough.
You can seal the final finish with Testors Matte Clear Coat. It is the most neutral matte clear coat available.
Alcohol is important because the residual alcohol will clean all of the oil from the nooks and crannies.
If you use water the oil will get absorbed into the paint and leach out
Using a heat gun will cure the paint without melting the greeblies, just keep the heat source moving to consistently heat up the area
I also burnish the paint with cloth rags which gives it a deep luster and removes most of the loose paint.
But I still get some rub off if I handle a part of the blaster that isn't burnished enough.
You can seal the final finish with Testors Matte Clear Coat. It is the most neutral matte clear coat available.
Alcohol is important because the residual alcohol will clean all of the oil from the nooks and crannies.
If you use water the oil will get absorbed into the paint and leach out
Using a heat gun will cure the paint without melting the greeblies, just keep the heat source moving to consistently heat up the area
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thank you! it's cheap paint that is pretty durable and I love it. I did once use the "professional" tall silver aerosol rustoleum cans and that hardened almost immediately and wouldn't come off. I was making a V2 lightsaber and that was so tough haha
Is there any special time frame for re-coats?
Is there any special time frame for re-coats?
Boba Debt
Master Member
No, with the heat it dries almost instantly so you can paint till you're done.
I normally paint everything while it is dissembled and then assemble the blast and apply a final blend coat before I burnish the paint
Hoth MGC build..
Got the new 3/4 light port in..
Got the new 3/4 light port in..
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JLinNY
Sr Member
I don't know anything more than anyone else here, I am looking at the same photos as everyone else. This thread, and the fact that I picked up a MGC recently which I am leaning towards converting into a Hoth, got me looking at the pictures again.
I originally thought I saw some glints from the screws, but I am rethinking that. Why? Because I don't see the reasoning behind leaving a plate with screws exposed like that. It's pretty sloppy, in my opinion. I now believe that a knob from a turn table or some such thing was used, and it covered the whole plate. I think the glue circle came from the center post of a knob like this one (I am not saying they used this exact one!):
I think they installed the disk, painted it with the screws, and installed the knob. You can see a spot of black within the glue circle. Maybe when the knob fell off it pulled up that bit of glue, exposing the back paint. The other thing though, is when I look at the photo of Luke holding that blaster in the snow, I kind of see a lower step like you would see it they used a knob similar to this one:
I really like what Chubs did, I am going to follow his lead with one of these knobs. At least until a better photo comes along. It would be an easy fix right?
I originally thought I saw some glints from the screws, but I am rethinking that. Why? Because I don't see the reasoning behind leaving a plate with screws exposed like that. It's pretty sloppy, in my opinion. I now believe that a knob from a turn table or some such thing was used, and it covered the whole plate. I think the glue circle came from the center post of a knob like this one (I am not saying they used this exact one!):
I think they installed the disk, painted it with the screws, and installed the knob. You can see a spot of black within the glue circle. Maybe when the knob fell off it pulled up that bit of glue, exposing the back paint. The other thing though, is when I look at the photo of Luke holding that blaster in the snow, I kind of see a lower step like you would see it they used a knob similar to this one:
I really like what Chubs did, I am going to follow his lead with one of these knobs. At least until a better photo comes along. It would be an easy fix right?
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