Various OT lightsaber WannaWanga parts (new ALU MPP shroud)

Thanks for the quick reply, halliwax!

halliwax said:
1. Parks clamp may not be as accurate as you are lead to believe... roys clamp cover matches the vintage clamp 100%. if you grab roys clamp cover and place it over the parks it MAY not line up correctly with the square holes and long oval... SOLUTION: grab a vintage clamp for your replica, or buy a 100% accurate clamp from roman, romans clamps and roys covers fit flawlessly
Click to expand...

The thing about Roman's clamps is that they don't always fit the Parks Graflex properly. I have a friend, who I won't name on here, who had a horrific experience, and ended up butchering his clamp trying to get it on both halves of the Graflex, (whilst following Roman's instructions on how to adjust it with plyers). There was enough of a size discrepancy that once it was around the graflex, the lever no longer aligned with the thread it screws into, and no amount of realignment would get it to reach. It's hard to explain. But in any case, this has made me hesitant to order from Roman myself. Has anyone else here successfully used Roman clamps on a Parks Graflex? Maybe my friend's clamp was a strange aberration and not indicative of Roman's usual work.

halliwax said:
2. this is surprising to me? i practically live on this site and i have never heard of this? i have about... 5 covers from Roy with 1 new one on the way. bought in batches at different times. I dont mass produce sabers, im just a greeblie saber junkie.. i collect these pieces like art work i guess we can say. NONE of my covers have these so called "divots" they are flawless. and if i did have a divot i have no doubt Roy would stand behind his product 100%. Roy is an awesome guy, who i trust entirely
Click to expand...

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=228132&page=20&p=4012817&viewfull=1#post4012817

This is where someone posts about the divots (and someone else chimes in to say theirs had the same problem). It's encouraging to hear that you've not encountered this issue though :)

halliwax said:
3. i drilled all mine with out a drill press. the first grips i drilled i didnt even use a center punch... but the center punch made my world a whole lot easier.. i double and triple check everything... as for buying a new bottom why? Roy sells the TFA bottom cover plate which will cover up any previous rivet hole issues you had before?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I didn't mean the TFA bottom plate, but rather the entire bottom piece that the grips attach to. The holes I'm nervous about drilling would be the grip ones.

And speaking of rivet holes, what you've said about the accuracy of Roy's rivets is very encouraging. :)
 
brashstryker said:
Thanks for the quick reply, halliwax!



The thing about Roman's clamps is that they don't always fit the Parks Graflex properly. I have a friend, who I won't name on here, who had a horrific experience, and ended up butchering his clamp trying to get it on both halves of the Graflex, (whilst following Roman's instructions on how to adjust it with plyers). There was enough of a size discrepancy that once it was around the graflex, the lever no longer aligned with the thread it screws into, and no amount of realignment would get it to reach. It's hard to explain. But in any case, this has made me hesitant to order from Roman myself. Has anyone else here successfully used Roman clamps on a Parks Graflex? Maybe my friend's clamp was a strange aberration and not indicative of Roman's usual work.



http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=228132&page=20&p=4012817&viewfull=1#post4012817

This is where someone posts about the divots (and someone else chimes in to say theirs had the same problem). It's encouraging to hear that you've not encountered this issue though :)



Sorry, I didn't mean the TFA bottom plate, but rather the entire bottom piece that the grips attach to. The holes I'm nervous about drilling would be the grip ones.

And speaking of rivets, what you've said about the accuracy of Roy's is very encouraging. :)
Click to expand...

glad i could help. i think your best bet is to maybe sell the parks and invest in a more accurate graflex like what roman is selling now. this way you dont have to worry about anything and everything will fit/work together. best of luck buddy!
 
Hopefully someone else will come along who has some direct experience of Roy's covers fitting on Parks' clamps. It seems a shame to have to buy a whole other replica just to get a text-less clamp that's a guaranteed fit.

If I was to bite the bullet and just try one out, there's no way of knowing whether it's best to go for Roy's cover (which may not fit my current clamp), or to go for a whole other 'no logo' clamp by Romans or TGS (which also may not fit!)

It's a quandary for sure.

Thanks again!
 
halliwax said:
1. Parks clamp may not be as accurate as you are lead to believe... roys clamp cover matches the vintage clamp 100%. if you grab roys clamp cover and place it over the parks it MAY not line up correctly with the square holes and long oval... SOLUTION: grab a vintage clamp for your replica, or buy a 100% accurate clamp from roman, romans clamps and roys covers fit flawlessly

2. this is surprising to me? i practically live on this site and i have never heard of this? i have about... 5 covers from Roy with 1 new one on the way. bought in batches at different times. I dont mass produce sabers, im just a greeblie saber junkie.. i collect these pieces like art work i guess we can say. NONE of my covers have these so called "divots" they are flawless. and if i did have a divot i have no doubt Roy would stand behind his product 100%. Roy is an awesome guy, who i trust entirely

3. i drilled all mine with out a drill press. the first grips i drilled i didnt even use a center punch... but the center punch made my world a whole lot easier.. i double and triple check everything... as for buying a new bottom why? Roy sells the TFA bottom cover plate which will cover up any previous rivet hole issues you had before?

4. "Roy's entirely accurate?" let me tell you, i dont think ANYONE on here as done as much rivet research as our boy Roy. if you read the major long TFA graflex thread, roy has done his home work. "I saw previous people substituting them but I can't for the life of me find a reason." I dont think they are switching out the rivets for more accurate rivets, i think they are switching them out because there is so much confusion on what was used on the actual saber. thanks to the launch bay sabers we are even more super confused... one launch bay has hex head flat screws for the grips, and tamperproof screws for the D ring...the prop shop saber has rusty hex head screws. but you can clearly see on film they never used rusty hex head screws...

i strongly STRONGLY believe what i see on the Maz box saber is rivets, roy's rivets match perfectly.

i stand behind wannawanga.com 100% :thumbsup
Click to expand...

Thanks Danny, you're my greatest support! I wished we lived closer to each other and could hang out sometime! :)

1. indeed; people have told me that the cover fits a 2.0 but the holes don't match perfectly because the 2.0 clamp is not entirely accurate. I don't know about the older Parks.

2. some of the pressed grooves covers did have small dents as a result of the pressing process. The new ones don't have it and the lasercut grooves definitely don't have that. If you go for a new and clean look, I'd choose that one.

3. As halliwax said. Check my tutorial page where you can see how I did it by hand. I glue the T-tracks first and use the plastic as a guide. No need for a center punch.

4. I have investigated the rivet sizes by using perspective matching of my 3D model over screen images. The rivets I sell are screen accurate (3mm rivets).

brashstryker said:
Hopefully someone else will come along who has some direct experience of Roy's covers fitting on Parks' clamps. It seems a shame to have to buy a whole other replica just to get a text-less clamp that's a guaranteed fit.

If I was to bite the bullet and just try one out, there's no way of knowing whether it's best to go for Roy's cover (which may not fit my current clamp), or to go for a whole other 'no logo' clamp by Romans or TGS (which also may not fit!)

It's a quandary for sure.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Getting a text-less clamp is not the only reason you might want to consider a clamp cover. The stainless steel (slightly more yellow) finish of the cover compared to the chrome finish of the Graflex is typical TFA. This is very much noticeable in the Wired promo shots.

Good luck with your decision!
 
It's a shame you don't have an old Parks clamp handy. You could make a version to be a guaranteed fit for that, and secure yourself another corner of the market. ;)

Definitely going to take some thinking......dammit, sometimes I hate these hobbies.
 
OK Roy, I'm taking the plunge. A buddy of mine who owns multiple clamps (one of which is a Roman's) has tested his on his own Park's Graflex, and he says the difference is negligible - just ever so slightly more snug than the Park's clamp. Plus, he has a spare Roman's clamp, so worst case scenario, and I can buy his from him and still use your cover :)

The only thing I need to decide now is whether to have embossed or cutout lines on it. Any consensus here on which is marginally more accurate? I've read the relevant threads, but possibly not as thoroughly as I could have, so I'll just ask the question now and I'll continue reading. If I get an answer in the meantime whilst I'm researching it, great!

Thanks for your patience with my noobish questions guys. Appreciated.
 
roygilsing said:
2. some of the pressed grooves covers did have small dents as a result of the pressing process. The new ones don't have it and the lasercut grooves definitely don't have that. If you go for a new and clean look, I'd choose that one.
Click to expand...

I was one of the people with a 'divot' on my clamp cover. I didn't bother following up with Roy on it since it was very minor and now that he offers the laser cut version I'd rather have that style anyway.
 
Last edited:
brashstryker said:
OK Roy, I'm taking the plunge. A buddy of mine who owns multiple clamps (one of which is a Roman's) has tested his on his own Park's Graflex, and he says the difference is negligible - just ever so slightly more snug than the Park's clamp. Plus, he has a spare Roman's clamp, so worst case scenario, and I can buy his from him and still use your cover :)

The only thing I need to decide now is whether to have embossed or cutout lines on it. Any consensus here on which is marginally more accurate? I've read the relevant threads, but possibly not as thoroughly as I could have, so I'll just ask the question now and I'll continue reading. If I get an answer in the meantime whilst I'm researching it, great!

Thanks for your patience with my noobish questions guys. Appreciated.
Click to expand...

I bought both versions of the clamp cover. I will most likely use the first versions but it's always nice to have all options. That way if a photo pops up and more evidence is found i can always switch it out with haste


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
roygilsing said:
Thanks Danny, you're my greatest support! I wished we lived closer to each other and could hang out sometime! :)

1. indeed; people have told me that the cover fits a 2.0 but the holes don't match perfectly because the 2.0 clamp is not entirely accurate. I don't know about the older Parks.

2. some of the pressed grooves covers did have small dents as a result of the pressing process. The new ones don't have it and the lasercut grooves definitely don't have that. If you go for a new and clean look, I'd choose that one.

3. As halliwax said. Check my tutorial page where you can see how I did it by hand. I glue the T-tracks first and use the plastic as a guide. No need for a center punch.

4. I have investigated the rivet sizes by using perspective matching of my 3D model over screen images. The rivets I sell are screen accurate (3mm rivets).



Getting a text-less clamp is not the only reason you might want to consider a clamp cover. The stainless steel (slightly more yellow) finish of the cover compared to the chrome finish of the Graflex is typical TFA. This is very much noticeable in the Wired promo shots.

Good luck with your decision!
Click to expand...

No thank you Roy for supplying this club with all these fine pieces of work.

I remember the days where ESB saber guys were up the creek because the kobold d rings were no where to be found and fetching a 250 dollar price tag..

You stepped up and did all the hard work to make a 100% accurate d ring at a very affordable price

I appreciate all your hard work, and because of you I can have these replicas on display in my room

Thank you wannawanga.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have an older Parks I found in storage over the holidays (still decked out in some Blast-tech kit... ah memories) and I've been meaning to pick some more stuff up from Roy. Was waiting for the V2 levers to be back, but maybe I'll just jump the gun to see how things line up with the clamp-cover.

I don't have enough good things to say about WannaWanga... it was such a joy coming back to the hobby and finding people like Roy doing awesome work.
 
Roy, are you intending on putting a tutorial on your site for the TFA kit? I'm looking forward to doing the conversion, but man am I nervous about messing up!

If anyone here has done a build journal of theirs, I'd love a link! :)
 
brashstryker said:
Roy, are you intending on putting a tutorial on your site for the TFA kit? I'm looking forward to doing the conversion, but man am I nervous about messing up!
Click to expand...

Yes, I am thinking of creating one as soon as I've received Roman's replica (which will be soon). I'll make it as an image sequence as I did with the Luke ESB conversion tutorial.
 
Last edited:
One more question, I promise. My friend just informed me that the Roman's clamp he has spare came off a Roman's OB1, which means 2 of the square cutouts on the clamp have been expanded and roughed up due to the fact it used to have the screw-on transistors.

Do you think your clamp cover would hide this flaw? I totally get that I sound like some ocd fusspot right now, but I'm probably in good company. :p

Also just to clarify....I know that the cutouts on your cover will be literally on top of the clamp cutouts, and would therefore hide it when looking from directly above..... I just wondered if you think you'd be able to see the flaw from any angle (if scrutinizing)
 
Last edited:
brashstryker said:
One more question, I promise. My friend just informed me that the Roman's clamp he has spare came off a Roman's OB1, which means 2 of the square cutouts on the clamp have been expanded and roughed up due to the fact it used to have the screw-on transistors.

Do you think your clamp cover would hide this flaw? I totally get that I sound like some ocd fusspot right now, but I'm probably in good company. :p

Also just to clarify....I know that the cutouts on your cover will be literally on top of the clamp cutouts, and would therefore hide it when looking from directly above..... I just wondered if you think you'd be able to see the flaw from any angle (if scrutinizing)
Click to expand...

as long as you put the cover ONTOP of the clamp then yes it will cover the rounded holes
 
With Roman's Graflex replicas not far away, I'm getting back into looking at finishing a few of my sabers.

Roy, I know you used to do the Vader ESB kits, and I'm so glad I got in when you were still doing the shrouds – I (and others) may have asked this before, but has the Vader clamp ever been on the radar?
Now that Blast-Tech seems to have disappeared entirely, and TCSS seems to be absolutely ridiculous at restocking things, any sources I know of are very limited.
It's the one part I'm missing to complete my Vader ESB, as I've got your shroud, button, tracks, and wire.

If you're not planning to release one any time soon, does anyone have any suggestions on where I can find one?
The biggest problem I have with TCSS is that their $35 clamp comes with $50 shipping, and the conversion rate turns that into well over $100 dollaridoos. Which I just cannot justify, unfortunately. But if holding out a while gets me some WannaWanga quality, I'm down for that.

HELP ME OBI-ROY KENOBI!
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

chubsANDdoggers
The Greedo Killer (Star Wars Chronicles version..)
Replies
9
Views
739
chubsANDdoggers
chubsANDdoggers
Jaehy
Star Wars Inspired Door Frame
Replies
2
Views
558
bigkidbiggertoys
bigkidbiggertoys
Raaven1990
I just discovered some of the Clone Wars youngling arc sabers have been designed using parts from the 2007 Master Replicas lightsaber kit.
Replies
1
Views
407
Raaven1990
Raaven1990
Cmdr.Kerner
Star Wars Rebels Datapad
Replies
0
Views
524
Cmdr.Kerner
Cmdr.Kerner
Cmdr.Kerner
Star Wars Rebels Sabacc Cards
Replies
0
Views
333
Cmdr.Kerner
Cmdr.Kerner
Back
Top