Star Lord Build from scratch-ish...

There isn't a hole for the valve, it sits on top of the leather. The silver mesh is glued down on top and the valve on top of that.
 
Staar Lord Maan;3677180[SIZE=3 said:
[/SIZE]
View attachment 491362
Yes, I said it...hole...god help me....


hi, just wondering if you have done the arm vent yet, and if so how did you do it, as i have to do this too, and dont know if should cut the leather or unstitch inside fabric to get behind to affix the bit that shows through leather :)
 
A little advice, please...
I was knocking out some templates I got a while back for some Star Lord's boots and made the discovery that using a razor blade to cut the die-cuts out was okay for paper, but that 'cheating' with spray paint to transfer that pattern over to a more rigid medium caused over-spray,

Template.jpg
...but that's not why I'm posting, (I've already ordered the oblong punch tool for the leather)


The 'foot cap' pattern I have doesn't have the location of the die cuts on it so I took some notes from reference images and thought I'd pick the minds of the more experienced here...

Before............... After...
Foot Cap Pattern BEFORE.JPGFoot Cap Pattern AFTER - with notes.JPG
With all that in mind, does anyone have an accurate representation, (in pattern format), for the placement of the die cuts for the foot cap piece?

Also, how does the lower part of the spat align with the foot cap? If there is a dotted line representation somewhere out there i'd be fully appreciative if it were magically posted, here. Thanks!


Spat pattern alignment question.jpg

In addition, I have not seen the Rocket Sub Strait out there which looks *exactly* like the one depicted in the image with the red highlight below.

The green highlighted image depicts what comes with the 3D printed kit ordered through Shapeway


Rocket Sub Strait.jpg

This green highlight depicts what comes with the 3D printed kit ordered through Shapeway which is not screen-accurate and too flimsy for what I plan to do with it...
Rocket Sub Strait_02.jpg



So, here's what I plan to do with it...


Rocket substrait design.JPG


If I can find a 3D print or casting of this thicker sub strait, I intend on actually using rivets or Chicago screws to mount it to the spat just like how it appears in the movie. I intend on integrating a one by two inch flat earth magnet system, (one that won't tear free from the ABS print) ---> [Read: REINFORCED ALL TO HELL] <---
I can simulate how Chris Pratt 'twisted' it off the mount for removal. I may even install some sort of divot and tab system so that it makes a 'click' sound...(or I can just pop my cheek and fake it).
Twist motion.jpg

Side note, if you're wearing a Gamora outfit, you can install a magnet on your lower back panel of your cosplay...
Boot Rocket - Gamora magnet placement.JPGWheee!.jpg...get it? :D

Anyway, having a mount with a hollow chamber in it large enough for me to embed that magnet with plumber's putty and E-6000 would solve a ton of problems for me.

Lastly, in keeping with my immersion into this universe, (I'm shooting towards providing a tactile and 'real world weight, look and feel' for the kids I'll be visiting), I'll also weight-jacking each of these Boot Rockets, (just like my element guns), hence the need for those earth magnets to keep them secured in-place.

As always, I welcome comments and suggestions. Thanks!


Template.jpg


Foot Cap Pattern AFTER - with notes.JPG


Foot Cap Pattern BEFORE.JPG


Spat pattern alignment question.jpg


Rocket Sub Strait.jpg


Rocket Sub Strait_02.jpg


Rocket substrait design.JPG


Twist motion.jpg


Boot Rocket - Gamora magnet placement.JPG


Wheee!.jpg
 
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The valve and it's substrate are sitting on top of the jacket, no need to cut a whole
how do i get the foam cut out that goes behind the leather, behind it? inside
20150706_014051.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

A little advice, please...
I was knocking out some templates I got a while back for some Star Lord's boots and made the discovery that using a razor blade to cut the die-cuts out was okay for paper, but that 'cheating' with spray paint to transfer that pattern over to a more rigid medium caused over-spray,

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497345&d=1436193151&thumb=1
...but that's not why I'm posting, (I've already ordered the oblong punch tool for the leather)


The 'foot cap' pattern I have doesn't have the location of the die cuts on it so I took some notes from reference images and thought I'd pick the minds of the more experienced here...

Before............... After...
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497347&d=1436193380&thumb=1http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497346&d=1436193442&thumb=1
With all that in mind, does anyone have an accurate representation, (in pattern format), for the placement of the die cuts for the foot cap piece?

Also, how does the lower part of the spat align with the foot cap? If there is a dotted line representation somewhere out there i'd be fully appreciative if it were magically posted, here. Thanks!


http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497348&d=1436194311&thumb=1

In addition, I have not seen the Rocket Sub Strait out there which looks *exactly* like the one depicted in the image with the red highlight below.

The green highlighted image depicts what comes with the 3D printed kit ordered through Shapeway


http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497349&d=1436194479&thumb=1

This green highlight depicts what comes with the 3D printed kit ordered through Shapeway which is not screen-accurate and too flimsy for what I plan to do with it...
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497350&d=1436194479&thumb=1



So, here's what I plan to do with it...


http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497337&d=1436198983&thumb=1


If I can find a 3D print or casting of this thicker sub strait, I intend on actually using rivets or Chicago screws to mount it to the spat just like how it appears in the movie. I intend on integrating a one by two inch flat earth magnet system, (one that won't tear free from the ABS print) ---> [Read: REINFORCED ALL TO HELL] <---
I can simulate how Chris Pratt 'twisted' it off the mount for removal. I may even install some sort of divot and tab system so that it makes a 'click' sound...(or I can just pop my cheek and fake it).
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497331&d=1436196705&thumb=1

Side note, if you're wearing a Gamora outfit, you can install a magnet on your lower back panel of your cosplay...
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497351&d=1436196947&thumb=1http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=497333&d=1436196730&thumb=1 ...get it? :D

Anyway, having a mount with a hollow chamber in it large enough for me to embed that magnet with plumber's putty and E-6000 would solve a ton of problems for me.

Lastly, in keeping with my immersion into this universe, (I'm shooting towards providing a tactile and 'real world weight, look and feel' for the kids I'll be visiting), I'll also weight-jacking each of these Boot Rockets, (just like my element guns), hence the need for those earth magnets to keep them secured in-place.

As always, I welcome comments and suggestions. Thanks!

none of your images are showing

20150706_014051.jpg
 
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@swadlinboi - I just added the pictures back (refresh your page).
Lemme know if you can see them.

Also,

how do i get the foam cut out that goes behind the leather, behind it? inside


I just taped it to the exterior, held it in place while I turned it inside out...then traced markers around the shape. I then took that shape and placed it onto those markers, (making sure I've aligned them appropriately to accommodate for the seam), and used a sharpie to draw the shape directly onto the back side of the leather. You'll have to rip the seam in the jacket liner first, sorry...

Now, I see you are using foam...you may want to use something more rigid for the E-6000 to adhere to, otherwise your embossing won't look as crisp.
 
yes, can see them now :) what would you suggest to use instead of foam thanks

Head to the hobby store and look for sheets of plastic about the thickness of a cutting mat. OR...heh...do what I did and use a cutting mat! that can get pricey, but I had an old trashed one laying around that was askin' for it...
IMG_3687.JPG
 
Okay, so I'll admit...'wet molding leather' is now a 'thing' in my toolbox of 'things' for doing 'things' to 'things'.

or something...

It being my fist time, I kinda sorta got a bit too enthusiastic, so here's my repair work...
BEFORE............................. AFTER
Touch up needed....JPG Touch up achieved.JPG

As you can see, when I rubbed the leather raw with the end of a coated paintbrush (probably too small and pointy), I exposed a much lighter shade of red. Old English scratch remover (the dark stuff) Rubbed on with a paper towel worked great. The porous nature of the scratched leather picked up the oil whereas the finished leather allowed it to be wiped away. Bonus: It looks like a little shadowing, now!

Touch up needed....JPG


Touch up achieved.JPG
 
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On this update, Staar Lord Maan swallows a LION!
Also, he does wet molding for the placard behind where the valve sits...

- Enjoy!

<span style="color:#800000;"><font size="3"><span style="font-family:verdana;">
 
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Couldn't sleep...Might as well figure out what's going on with this thing eating tape...

Insomnia Again....JPGLubed up and not eating tape....JPG
IMG_4013.JPG Battrery Door Mod.JPG

I wound up taking some Isopropyl Alcohol to some rolled up paper towel bits and squeezing it into the gears...gentle scrubbing, in some cases with a toothpick swaddled in paper towel. worked like a dream.

I am curious to know what sparkly paint they used on the plastic instrument cowl. The paint has rubbed off over the years from having been stored in it's 'protective' vinyl case. [hashtag 'Friction']

Lastly, as it is with some of these units, if you move them just right, you can dislodge the batteries in side their bay, so I remedied this through the use of one small strip of Gorilla tape...then another slightly larger one, then finally another larger one. I created a little bump on the inside of the battery bay door, but made sure to have it be on the leading edge of the outer-most battery to hold everything in place. It works pretty solidly, feel free and steal this idea :)

And finally, after getting it back in an operational stat, I shot a video of my 1979 Sony Walkman TPS-L2; Post tune-up, (no skin) - closeup shots in correct speed. 4:30 AM


Insomnia Again....JPG


Lubed up and not eating tape....JPG


IMG_4013.JPG


Battrery Door Mod.JPG
 
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Good Grief! Turn my back for a moment and you're doing emergency surgery on a TPS-L2. Impressive.

Also, the jacket mods look great.
 
Thanks Fly4v!

I've been on and off with the build since I had suffered a bit of nerve damage which pretty much rendered my left arm uselss until it heals up. Nerves take a LONG time to heal.

So far as the jacket mod, I sell screen accurate hand made zippers HERE.

Tell your friends!
Jacket Valve and patch.jpg

Good Grief! Turn my back for a moment and you're doing emergency surgery on a TPS-L2. Impressive.

Also, the jacket mods look great.

Jacket Valve and patch.jpg
 
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@Staar Lord Maan

Did your Element Gun mods end up making them significantly shorter? I may do something similar since I am almost a foot shorter than Pratt (5' 4"), and shorter guns would probably look better proportioned.

How/where did you cut into the jacket liner and how did you sew it back up? If it's in this topic I missed it.
 
I'd start at Post 137 for the jacket embossing. Also, look for a video near the end of the thread. I started doing them because it was easier to post.

Actually, turn the sleeve inside out and find the seam. Get a seam ripper and carefully insert the point between two of the stitches and put tension on the fabric by pinching and pulling it against the blade of the seam ripper. Once that first stitch gives, pull the fabric away from the stitch. The rest of the process is tedious, but easy. Make a gap big enough to turn the sleeve inside out through the hole you have made.

To sew shut, look up 'locking stitch' on YouTube, (hey, you gotta' do some of this on your own, Amirite?).

About the element guns, well, I used what I had, (Nerd quad-blasters). I'm fairly certain that there are 3D print kits that are narrower, which may work better for your size. Anyone following this build who knows an RPF member who can get a link put up, here, I'm sure MrSouthpaw would appreciate it. (I'd do it, but I'm posting from my phone and the entry field is freekin' narrow) #lazy


@Staar Lord Maan

Did your Element Gun mods end up making them significantly shorter? I may do something similar since I am almost a foot shorter than Pratt (5' 4"), and shorter guns would probably look better proportioned.

How/where did you cut into the jacket liner and how did you sew it back up? If it's in this topic I missed it.
 
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@Staar Lord Maan

Already watched the embossing video and read the whole topic. That's actually what lead me to ask about it, since the liner was already opened up in the video. I think I'll probably try leather for my "circuits". I have fears that cutting board material would eventually wear through or something.

That's perfectly fine. I don't mind watching Youtube videos. I'm in learning mode right now due to an unrelated costume and things related to needle & thread have my interest.

Yeah, I currently have the Nerf guns too. Painted them black and silver like 90% of the guys out there with no other details. I'll start with a fresh pair if I start down this road. I heard that the movie accurate guns out there are actually longer than the nerf guns, though they may be slimmer. I can't remember who said that though. So that route may not work for shorter guys.

Thanks for responding, btw.
 
@Staar Lord Maan

Already watched the embossing video and read the whole topic. That's actually what lead me to ask about it, since the liner was already opened up in the video. I think I'll probably try leather for my "circuits". I have fears that cutting board material would eventually wear through or something.

Actually, no...you'd be surprised at how durable leather is...if you want the CLEAN FLAT look for the embossing, I'd go with some kind of rigid material, besides, theE6000 glue adheres to all the edges and protects the leather from the other side. If it makes you more comfortable, do what I did and file the sharp edges down on the corners. The other inherent issue with using leather is that it's not a smooth surface - the glue, when applied and smoothed, will translate what ever contours that are present in the grain, as with this example...
IMG_3680.JPG

Yeah, I currently have the Nerf guns too. Painted them black and silver like 90% of the guys out there with no other details. I'll start with a fresh pair if I start down this road. I heard that the movie accurate guns out there are actually longer than the nerf guns, though they may be slimmer. I can't remember who said that though. So that route may not work for shorter guys.

The size is going to be what the size is going to be on these guns and you'll just have to deal with that. I'd keep the guns you have, currently because at the end of the day, when you're at a con, people who see you wont' go "oh my god, those guns are soooo biiiig" no, they'll see you from about 15 feet and go "Heeey!!! Star Lord!!!" because they see the WHOLE THING together...jacket, helmet, walkman, boot rockets, etc....

Be Happy.

That is all.

-SLM-

Finally.JPG
 
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