Thanks! That one was gesso'd then bondo'd. That seems to be the best option in my experience. Wood glue is hard and as a result sands slower than bondo, which can cause issues if you sand through the bondo. Gesso sands at the same speed, but either way I highly recommend avoiding sanding through layers (even on gesso you can peel bondo off if you give it the opportunity). Getting worbla that smooth takes quite a bit of work but as you can see it's well worth it.
Apoxie Sculpt is great for adding extra strength and getting crisp details (see
my thread for more on this), but as I mentioned before it can start getting heavy fast. I used it because my shin armor was still flexing even with two layers of worbla, and I needed to build up edges and make them crisp. I also had to use it to rebuild a point I cut out of the back side. It's perfect for that stuff. I haven't tried combining it with bondo but I'm guessing that would work great if you had to rebuild some details but wanted to keep it light.
You can also just use wood glue by itself and either sand it or just leave it, although it tends to have bubbles if you don't sand it. I used only wood glue on my glove worbla. Took forever to sand because the glue sands so slowly, but it turned out great. I figured trying to apply bondo to such small pieces wouldn't be fun.
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The glove pieces have no foam by the way. I just formed it around my hand, double layered on the palm and single layered for the fingers because their small, rounded shape made them strong.