New Star Trek TOS Phaser coming November 2014

GregH said:

Well, I was inspired by Myron, here are the guts of my Wand P1. My P1 body isn't actually welded, it's glued with cyanoacrylate (super glue). You can see some fogging on the plastic from the glue. I created and printed settings gauge graphics, the dimensions are roughly 3/4 x 5/16 in inches. Instead of scraping off the existing gauge graphics and masking the LED, I placed mine over the top of the existing graphics so the original settings still show through. The circuit board is only held in by the one plastic clip in the middle. The 2 clips near the bottom/back of the P1 circuit board are for the 6 pin connector. I am seriously impressed with all that went in to essentially a totally redesign the internals, the design so clean. The metal parts, while unpolished are awesome, not just a replica of the existing parts but a redesign, for example the 3 braces on the side rails . Nice work Wand Company.

Greg

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Tarkin said:

Hi Greg. I was wondering would I be able to pop off the acrylic half round piece for the dial to put a numbered paper on the Wand P1 instead of taking the whole thing apart like you did?
Thanks.

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GregH said:

Hi Tarkin, unfortunately no, you would definitely break it. The P1 isn't really that difficult to pop open if you have something flat like the X-Acto Chisel blade to stick in and carefully pry from both sides to pop the welds. Just don't stick the blade or chisel in too far and don't pry just at one point. Pry a bit at one point, then wedge it and move along the edge, prying and wedging until it finally pops. You will have to do this to both sides. If you pry too much at one time or in one place you risk putting stress marks in or cracking the plastic. If you are careful, you won't even need to glue it back together. Friction will hold it together which makes re-entry even easier. The acrylic window is wider on the inside and is held in by that black piece with the 3 small square openings. A single Philips screw holds that black piece in place which seems to be a light shield for the LEDs. I would say the hardest part is initially popping the P1 plasti welds. Once done, changing the label is a piece of cake, and so are other mods, like aluminum foil under the crispy, painting the sides of the crispy, replacing the trigger and removing or modifying the acrylic nozzle.

The P2 is definitely the worst to pop apart, even with the nozzle and cooing fins removed. Its a royal PIA.

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GregH said:

If you don't open it up then gluing or using 2 sided tape may be the best way to place a crispy over the stock one. On mine, I cut and placed aluminum foil under the stock crispy which was thin enough to still allow sound through and completely blocked the existing holes. The existing grill is molded metal with a pin and hinge which pivots up when you roll the dial, so replacing the existing one would be quite a bit of work.

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Tarkin said:

Right right I see exactly what you mean. Interesting solution. Lastly, did you replace the ten turn? If so, how did you go about doing that if I may ask?

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