New BMF coming

MoJo Rising · Apr 3, 2015

CAPTAINCOX said:
Hi Mojo beautiful job there, did my cockpit some weeks back and also used a crazy amount of Optical Fibers, did the biggest mistake one can make using Fiber Optics and glued them with Superglue and yea!!! they went brittle and broke off. Had to redo it all with epoxy, now its ok. I am still sort a pondering on how the frack everything is gonna fit in to the falcon, what I mean is the Fibers coming out of the upper part,
View attachment 459719
I see that you did some sort of Plates/panels covering the fibers, could you please elaborate a bit on how that works...does it simply press down the Fibers or?.

Thanks in advance
Mike C

First off, you need to use very thin fiber. .2mm. Then all I did was take very thin sheet styrene, cut to size, and glue in place. It acts as a condom to protect the fiber which is flattened against the roof and sidewalls b/c hen you slide the entire cockpit into the tube on the falcon body I figured that the tiny fibers would snag on something if I didn't have some.

as for gluing the fibers in place, I use Elmers glue. And then some CA glue for when I'm absolutely sure everything is final.

CAPTAINCOX · Apr 3, 2015

MoJo Rising said:
First off, you need to use very thin fiber. .2mm. Then all I did was take very thin sheet styrene, cut to size, and glue in place. It acts as a condom to protect the fiber which is flattened against the roof and sidewalls b/c hen you slide the entire cockpit into the tube on the falcon body I figured that the tiny fibers would snag on something if I didn't have some.

as for gluing the fibers in place, I use Elmers glue. And then some CA glue for when I'm absolutely sure everything is final.

Cheers man. I used 0.5 mm Fibers..hm, will try ur method with the Styrene sheet...might come down to redoing at least the upper parts with 0.2 fibers if all goes south

.
Again thanks for the pointer.

Regards
Mike C

Blackbeardcrazy · Apr 3, 2015

Hi Guys !

I'd love to had fiber optics on my models too... This is giving some much life to your falcon models, I really love it. Could you point me toward your different fiber optic dealers ? How are you abble to light it with different colors ? Is each color coming from a different sources of light ? Thank you.

Regards

CAPTAINCOX · Apr 3, 2015

I have no specific dealer, I searched Ebay and got my stuff from there, got a couple of pointers from MAXX, Cudos to him!. Generally its cheaper to build your own kit, there are kits available online but mostly expensive and not really suited to what you are doing.

You would need (my opinion) 0.2,0.5 and 1 mm Fibers (1mm not suited for the cockpit I am using them as Red Positioning Lights on the lower side of the falcon), on Ebay you can get like 40m 0.5 for like 15$. Then you need LED's also those are really cheap on Ebay, comes in Roundtops, Flattops etc. 3mm-5mm, different colors, there are LED's that change color automatically and if you want to get a tad more advanced you get in to programable platins and stuff...I am not there yet maybe some one here can point you in the right direction there.

And yea I basically use one color for one cluster of Fibers. And oh the most important thing

you need a soldering Iron and Solder, shrink tubes is another item you might want to get as you cover the LED's and the Fibers with them to get full effect of the light source.

Here are some examples how I did it but I am sure there are some guys here that do it differently and cleaner the me

Cluster of Fibers connected to different colored LED's and 4 Direct white LED's for the Light Panels in the cockpit (Major Plus for using Rapid Prototyping parts from Tony as they are semi Transparent!

Front Side

Basic setup with the Fibers and Shrink tube/LED's

Millennium%20Falcon%20Cockpit%20Light%20Array.jpg

Here is another example from the Fine Molds 1/72 Falcon (sorry don't know this guys name, but super clean setup using mainly Photoetch/Decals/Backlit)

Jaitea · Apr 3, 2015

I got new moulds done of 2 inserts & casting has turned out great,....the first ones out had a few bubbles but are fixable

.....& Bandai Chewie:

J

leyrich · Apr 3, 2015

Hi john your chewie come out great and the casing trend out great to.

D

Decky · Apr 3, 2015

just did the same thing as Jaitea haha. Finished my molds and did some casts

RichardJones · Apr 4, 2015

Has anyone found a material to fill the screw holes with?

LrdSatyr8 · Apr 4, 2015

MrDickJones said:
Has anyone found a material to fill the screw holes with?

Milliput or Apoxie Sculpt works great for filling the holes

RichardJones · Apr 4, 2015

LrdSatyr8 said:
Milliput or Apoxie Sculpt works great for filling the holes

Thanks, ill give those a try!

gyoung2993 · Apr 5, 2015

I was just going to use epoxy or jbweld , when the time comes....that way , I know it will never come out....LOL

CAPTAINCOX · Apr 5, 2015

I used Red Putty from Squadron and MR.Putty but both came out like pellets when Airbrushing Primer (Turning the model over and so on) not all of them but enough to be a real Pain!. I think its due to that crappy plastic. I refilled the holes after Priming and now they are ok. I guess heavy duty stuff like what gyoung2993 is recommending is not a bad idea if you don't want to do it twice like i did.

FZ6 · Apr 5, 2015

MoJo Rising said:
Cockpit done. 128 strands of .275mm fiber and 3D printed upgrades from FZ6 and 43 hours of my life.

Brilliant job!!! Worth it everything!!!

- - - Updated - - -

CAPTAINCOX said:
I have no specific dealer, I searched Ebay and got my stuff from there, got a couple of pointers from MAXX, Cudos to him!. Generally its cheaper to build your own kit, there are kits available online but mostly expensive and not really suited to what you are doing.

You would need (my opinion) 0.2,0.5 and 1 mm Fibers (1mm not suited for the cockpit I am using them as Red Positioning Lights on the lower side of the falcon), on Ebay you can get like 40m 0.5 for like 15$. Then you need LED's also those are really cheap on Ebay, comes in Roundtops, Flattops etc. 3mm-5mm, different colors, there are LED's that change color automatically and if you want to get a tad more advanced you get in to programable platins and stuff...I am not there yet maybe some one here can point you in the right direction there.

And yea I basically use one color for one cluster of Fibers. And oh the most important thing you need a soldering Iron and Solder, shrink tubes is another item you might want to get as you cover the LED's and the Fibers with them to get full effect of the light source.

Here are some examples how I did it but I am sure there are some guys here that do it differently and cleaner the me

Cluster of Fibers connected to different colored LED's and 4 Direct white LED's for the Light Panels in the cockpit (Major Plus for using Rapid Prototyping parts from Tony as they are semi Transparent!

Front Side

Basic setup with the Fibers and Shrink tube/LED's

Here is another example from the Fine Molds 1/72 Falcon (sorry don't know this guys name, but super clean setup using mainly Photoetch/Decals/Backlit)

Very nice Captain!!!

gyoung2993 · Apr 5, 2015

Im not telling anyone to do what I will be doing on mine, but in my experience with JB weld, JbQuick , or epoxy, they are all extremely strong, and I have no problems with it , on the 100 projects I used it for, so knowing what I use and how to strengthen parts whether it be plastic or metal....but I appreciate someone agrees with me that JBQuick is definitely a 1 stop shop technique and it will never come out !!!

Screencheata · Apr 6, 2015

Hello all. I just wanted to say "hi" to everyone and introduce myself. I have been watching this tread since I heard about the release of this falcon. Now that I am coming close to completing my first attempt, I thought now would be a good time to join. Having owned the Master Replicas version, and regretting the sale of it for years, this will have to fill the void it has left in my heart...lol. I have no previous experience with detailing models or painting and weathering them...this attempt has been strictly for practice purposes and definitely reflects it. Having made many...MANY mistakes and learning from them, I have no doubt my second falcon will turn out far better than this one...(by the way... I have 5 more in their boxes to work on in the future). I am encouraged with the results so far and will be making the finishing touches on it soon. It won't be 100 complete as some of the mistakes hold no chance of correcting on this one. Trial and error... it's the best way to learn something. Anyhow, here are some pics of the ship so far, let me know what you think. Constructive criticism is always
welcome and will be appreciated for the next build.

Jedi Dade · Apr 6, 2015

if this is your first attempt at painting weathering and detailing... it will be scary to see your 100th

looks darn good.

Jedi Dade

Jedi Dade · Apr 6, 2015

LrdSatyr8 said:
Milliput or Apoxie Sculpt works great for filling the holes

I like to use bondo glazing spot putty. BUT the plastic on this thing is screwy... you probably want to rough up the insides of the holes so the putty has something textural to stick to... otherwise the putty will likely crack and pop out when the body flexes form normal handling... flying it around the house for example

. a small file run through the hole prior to filling ought to do the trick - at least that's what I plan to use when I get to that part

.

Jedi Dade

LrdSatyr8 · Apr 6, 2015

Jedi Dade said:
I like to use bondo glazing spot putty. BUT the plastic on this thing is screwy... you probably want to rough up the insides of the holes so the putty has something textural to stick to... otherwise the putty will likely crack and pop out when the body flexes form normal handling... flying it around the house for example . a small file run through the hole prior to filling ought to do the trick - at least that's what I plan to use when I get to that part .

Jedi Dade

Yeah, would definately need to rough up the insides. I hate playing with the polypropalene plastics. Its so difficult to work with as far as glues and paint.

Jaitea · Apr 6, 2015

Randy now has a Resin landing gear set:

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=68276

J

rbeach84 · Apr 6, 2015

Jaitea said:
I got new moulds done of 2 inserts & casting has turned out great,....the first ones out had a few bubbles but are fixable
http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k637/jaiteastu/Hasbro Hero Millennium Falcon/Parts.jpg
.....& Bandai Chewie:
http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k637/jaiteastu/Hasbro Hero Millennium Falcon/Chewie 3.jpg
http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k637/jaiteastu/Hasbro Hero Millennium Falcon/Chewie 4.jpg
J

Hey, "J" on a related note, picked up a couple of the Wizards of the Coast Star Wars game "Chewie" & Wookie figures and can vouch that they are (as previously noted) spot-on for size, well sculpted & perhaps better than the Bandai figure (which isn't too shabby, either.) The other WotC figures can be pretty variable RE: sculpting and 'scaling' issues (such as the Leia as 'Senator' figure - the one holding a blaster pistol upright - too short and a head that is way too small for the figure...plus the head is also too narrow, but how good a likeness can we expect from a gaming figure anyway?) However, there are many opportunities offered by the range so cannot discount 'em. I'll try and get some pix psoted of the ones I've purchased so everyone has an idea of what to expect.

My hope is that I can recast & Frankenstein 'em (cut up for parts & as armatures) in epoxy. I also found another source for this was in the large "Six for $5" box of Clik /Helix type figs at the local comic / gaming store. Some of these figures have superior facial sculpts, though they tend to the 'larger stature' spectrum for 1:48 due to the 'hero' proportions often used. Strangely, the best sculpts are the female figures which tend to not have obscuring masks or helmets like the male figures. I suppose this is a good thing since there are plenty of male 'heads' from both injection plastic & resin military figure sets.

Like the Hasbor MF, the soft pliable plastic used for all these figures presents challenges & would make direct modification more difficult so, again, pushing me to recasting. Good thing most are inexpensive to help balance the additional casting material costs!

Regards, Robert

New BMF coming

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