My Russrep/Roman Props Obi-Wan ANH Lightsaber

Filandrius

Sr Member
So after getting those too-good-to-be-true parts from Russ' latest run, I finally completed my Obi ANH. Aside from the emitter and the grenade, I've used one of Russ' anodized aluminum booster, a modern (plastic) Armitage handwheel and a Parks clamp. The bubble strip is from Philip Wise, and the transistors are vintage Motorola.

As the pictures show, my goal was a fully weathered prop. I didn't use any paint, only good old physical damage and a lot of finish altering chemicals (like RT-S25 black magic, Aluminum Black and Brass Darkening Solution) I've also deburred the machined parts when I got them in an ammo tumbler (with medium cutting media) dulling the finish in the process (and did the same thing with the clamp)

The uneven finish and damage on the parts was achieved by liberally rolling the parts on a concrete slab, heating the parts, and using water saturated with salt to rust the grenade. I didn't use chrome tape on the clamp because I like the damaged nickel plating better. I also went with 2 transistor washers, even if the saber isn't quite 100% accurate to the Tunisia look.

So here it is. Let me know what you think!
 

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I\m slowly building a "As built" version through russ, but after that's done, I'm tearing one up... will likely be using this thread as a guide... Nice work.
 
Thanks for the kind words guys! It's really appreciated.

The ANH Obi is my favorite saber too, it's a really fascinating prop and the weathering makes it 10 times as fun. :p

I\m slowly building a "As built" version through russ, but after that's done, I'm tearing one up... will likely be using this thread as a guide... Nice work.
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate.
 
First I threw the parts in my case tumbler for a few hours. I use green pyramids as a tumbling media, it's great to deburr metal parts without cutting too much material, they end up with a really smooth matte finish, without any machine marks or sharp edges. The harder the material, the longer I left it (the steel parts took 8-10 hours) Since I discovered the method I've been using it with all the machined parts I buy, be it aluminum, steel, brass, etc... It's hard to describe without being able to show it in person, but deburred parts look like found parts instead of freshly machined ones. It's pretty neat. :)

Long story short, I used my tumbler to finish and weather all of the parts on the saber, except for the bubble strip and the handwheel. In addition of matting the steel & brass parts, it damaged and dulled the nickel plating on the clamp and the anodizing on the booster. It was almost too easy. :p

The rest was achieved by bluing the steel parts (with Black Magic RT-S25 for the grenade and inner emitter, Brass Darkening Solution for the wind vane) The final result was a matte, even, dark grey color. I also darkened the outer emitter (but not as much, for contrast) by heating it in the stove.
 
Sorry! :p Not matte them, mate, like did you use a russ cone or did you machine your own piece? But that's amazing :O I would totally do something like that on one of my parks clamps and my parks emitter :p
 
MATE! Not matte. Gotcha. ;)

I used Simplyprop's adapter, it came with the cone. I forgot to mention Simplyprop's adapter in the first post, sorry! :p

And I don't think I would've been that drastic with a Graflex clamp, or even less a real balance tube. :wacko Anyway, real parts don't need deburring. That reminds me: how do you guys with genuine parts manage to actually weather them? :O
 
Gorgeous! Can't wait for my Obi parts to arrive. Excellent job on weathering this one, I think it's the best screen accurate weathered saber I've seen.
 
Yeah if you're lucky you can find some really nice more beat up graflex clamps on eBay, as for simplyprops do you recommend them? I've been lusting after a cone like that. Any real parts I've come across haven't really needed any weathering, but as for deburring you are referring to freshly machined parts yes?
 
Yes, deburring is only really necessary for freshly machined parts. Other than that I use my tumbler only to dull surfaces when needed. Vintage & used found parts don't apply (unless you need to clean parts for rebluing or something)
 
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FYI Simplyprops aka Chen aka 5postboy is a banned member and should not be positively reviewed here.
 
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