TRON: Legacy Lightcycle Baton Build Progress Thread (ArtFunk Kit)

I ordered two kits from ArtFunk. The #1 (base resin kit) and the #3 (Resin kit with Electronics)

The first kit I am working on is Kit #1
-Full bottom piece (untrimmed)
-2 Top Hand Grip pieces (untrimmed)
-1 Top Center Control piece (untrimmed)
-End caps Non-transparent resin (untrimmed)
-Decal sheet
-Decal transfer sheet

imagellh.jpg


My goal with this kit is to make it a costume prop that I can wear on my leg while attached with magnets.

Agenda
-Remove excess resin from casting process
-smooth out edges for fitment
-hollow out the inside of the body for lighter weight and magnet storage

Beginning by gathering necessary materials.
Needed various Dremel components so I got an accessory kit for under $20. Also needed Glue (Go2 glue), masking tape, safety glasses, filter masks, hobby knife and Dremel.
imagebfqx.jpg


This is the first resin prop kit that I've ever worked with so I was unsure of how to go about removing the excess with the Dremel and what attachments to use, so there was some trial and error.

So I started out by using a Sanding bit to remove the excess resin. This was a good way to remove the little amount but I had to make sure to stay away from the hard edge of the piece as to not ruin it by causing a uneven line.
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The way I stayed away from the hard edge was to angle the Dremel and use the corner of the sanding bit to stay towards the inside of the piece removing just the unnecessary material.
imagegbpk.jpg


Here you can see the excess material removed from one of the Top grips and part of the bottom piece as well as one of the endcaps.
imagehhx.jpg


Once all the pieces had the excess removed I went about smoothing them out a bit more to get a nice flush fit to the top and bottom pieces. I grabbed some sandpaper (1000 grit) and a sanding block that you can see here
imagedrq.jpg


Mostly what I did was to just move the piece over the sand paper a few passes at a time and then check fitment against the other piece by looking to see if there was a noticeable gap. The more you work the piece the more you should see the gap diminish.
imageige.jpg


Once I got the fitment to a degree I was satisfied with I then went on to hollowing out the pieces for weight saving. One thing I decided to do was to hollow out one end of the baton more than the other. My reasoning for that was so that one end of the baton would always want to stay pointing towards the ground if I was wearing it on my leg.
The only way I could figure out to hollow these pieces and to do so in a short time is to use a cutting wheel. Cut the outer edge of the "box" area and then make vertical and horizontal lines throughout the box which makes it easier to remove smaller bits of material than larger chunks.
imagefip.jpg

Be very aware of the depth that you use the cutting wheel and take your time with the passes. I was constantly worried I was going to cut through the other side but since I took my time and kept checking all the pieces came out fine.
This is the baton with the pieces just sitting together, nothing is permanently attached yet.
imageguh.jpg


Next, I wanted to clean up some areas of the molded pieces that were rough. I didn't have any specialized tools to use so I just used a xacto knife to scratch away at the small bits of excess in the ridge areas.
imageqjp.jpg

Here you can see the differnce along the "stepped" areas with an untouched piece (left) and the cleaned up piece (right).
imageetc.jpg


Now for the magnets! Went to the local hobby store and found the perfect sized magnet that I wanted to use to attach to my pants leg.
imagehuj.jpg

I had to remove the colored plastic cover by using a flat head screwdriver which was easy enough then I checked the fitment of the magnet into the center of the body. (after fitting I knew I had to remove more material and I wanted to get the bottom as thinned out as possible to let the magnetic contact be the strongest) The arrow is pointing to the end of the baton I want to point up that has less material. I also drew an arrow on the magnet after checking the polarity against the magnet already attached to the pants.
imageibvl.jpg


More magnet fun!
Initially I was just going to seal the center piece permanently with glue but decided to test out magnetic closure that I planned for the other kit. So I measured out from the hard edge on all pieces where I needed the neodymium magnets to go while allowing room in the center for the leg magnet. Once I measured it and had the circumference drawn out I removed the excess material using a engraving bit. I did a little at a time and then would check fitment of the magnet until I could get the surface even to or just below the edge.
imagezldn.jpg


I had thought that I would put a magnet at each corner but after testing only two magnets in opposite corners I knew they would be enough. Also here I was checking clearance on the "leg attachment" magnet.
imageckd.jpg


For final fitment before I glued the Top Grip pieces on to the Bottom piece I made sure to keep the Top Control Center piece on to make sure there would be enough area for the center to be taken off and on and keep the gaps to a minimum.
imagefzxb.jpg


So I added some glue to the Top Grip areas and instead of using clamps I wanted something that would give pressure from every possible direction and the simple solution was rubberbands. wrapped it and let it dry and cure for 24 hours
imagelwvr.jpg


As of right now this is how is stands. Ready for primer and sanding next.
imagezqvq.jpg
 
Got a bit more done in the past couple days.
Worked a little on the endcaps. There was a small raised spot in the recess (as seen on the left one) that I removed by using the tip of my hobby knife to slowly scrape it away and the one on the right is the result.
imageuzy.jpg



Also, I primered the baton and then sanded. Once that was done I filled in some of the mold lines along the sides with model putty. The sanded the putty down and hit those edges with primer which then was sanded one last time using various grits of 800, 1500 and 2000.
imageqimd.jpg


Then I finally started on the paint. Decided to do the recessed grip on both sides in a Flat Black. I noticed this on one of the D23 baton's that the grip looked like a Flat Dark Grey or Black in the photo. I went with Black since I did the same scheme on my scratch build baton and liked it.
imageasto.jpg


after I let the Flat Black cure I got the recessed grips masked off as well as the bottom half of the center control box. Also, figured that since the Control Box will have the ability to open that I should "Tron-ify" the attachment magnet. I used some small strips of reflective tape to make the circuits on the magnet.
imageluv.jpg

I just finished painting the main body using "Blazing Black" metallic lacquer. I'll wait for that to dry then paint the bottom of the Control Box along with the Top piece and the End caps. Its almost complete.
 
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Looking awesome!

Thanks renderinfo! I can't wait to see yours when you get it finished. You're more than welcome to post up pics in this thread, if you like. We are FINALLY getting the Batons that we have wanted for so long!! haha


More progress today since I had a busy weekend and couldn't get around to it. But anyways...

The "Blazing Black" went on very well and I let it cure for a few days since I put on so many coats. I then masked it off to protect it from any overspray from the "Graphite Dust" that im using as the color for the Center Control Box and the End Caps.

imagetvr.jpg




and BAM...after three coats of the "Graphite Dust" lacquer this is how it sits for the next couple days to fully dry.

imagehsy.jpg


Getting near the final steps. Just have to attach the End Caps to the main body and to any touch up work. Then I apply the decals and cut a "control panel" cover from some clear acrylic I have. More soon!
 
Final update on my Kit #1 build

Endcaps painted and ready to go on. A step I forgot to mention when I painted the main body and endcaps was to mask off the "attaching" surface of each to allow for whatever adhesive is used to adhere the best. This pic shows the bare resin that was covered with the masking.
rxa1.jpg


So I glued on the End Caps and let that set for 24 hours before the next step, which would end up being the last step with many little steps as a part of it.
The first being the reflective backing for the Control Panel label. I used the method of a piece of paper placed over the label then traced the outline with a pen. After that just a matter of laying the paper over the reflective tape and tracing the pen along the black line on the paper to make an impression on the tape. That way I just used scissors to cut along the impression to get the same size as the label.
k4mv.jpg


Then layed down the clear transfer tape across the black label (I opted not to remove the parts of the black decal that were supposed to be removed before putting the transfer tape on, but it can be done either way) and removed the black label and transfer tape from the decal backer.
b35q.jpg



Then I just layed the decal down onto the reflective side of the piece I cut earlier. It made the entire decal easier to handle. Removed the Transfer tape and then bent the decal to raised the edges along the cuts to remove the parts of the decal that were not needed. I used the tip of an Xacto knife to help raise the tiny edges. Once that was done, it was ready to lay down!
4mda.jpg


The Finished "Stunt" Baton
d0zu.jpg

9rhy.jpg

z1dr.jpg


5kn2.jpg

ww52.jpg

xjrk.jpg

ysfc.jpg


Control Panel removed with internal magnet
v0c4.jpg

kgd.jpg


The Screen Used Baton pic that I based the paint scheme on
5265243079_196f374294_z.jpg


Thanks go out to the masterful ArtFunk for supplying us Programs with an awesome kit to work with. Grazie!!
 
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Very well done Bandit!

Thank you Crimson! Coming from an artist like yourself it is indeed a compliment. :)



A couple more pics along with a size comparison with the SpinMasters toy version of the Baton, which is near the same length but noticeably larger in every other aspect.
r6pt.jpg

0wmp.jpg

6ymm.jpg



Now I need to go buy my own Dremel so I can give my buddy back his and start on the Kit with lights.
 
I've been working on my Kit #3 (with LED lighting) and thought I'd post up a little on that.

The first thing I went after was the Control Panel. I was excited so I rushed into it not getting it measured up with the included opal piece that is used as a translucent backer for the graphics. So I was left with a hole bigger than the piece of opal. (oops) Not a problem, after some thinking I just layed some tape across the outer part and molded it down into the recesses of the cut.
f3fn.jpg


Then, I flipped it over and centered the opal piece where I wanted it and it adhered to the tape. Once it was where I wanted it I used a small tip hot glue gun to fill in the gap around the opal that would force its way towards the tape that was holding it, filling in the crack. This pic is before I added the hot glue
t1zj.jpg


Pretty much almost the same cleanup as the Kit #1, but this time there was less material removed. I did have quite a bit to take out of one end of the Baton Bottom section for the battery pack so I used the same method for making room.
bfev.jpg


With the battery pack being so tall you will definitely have to excavate some of the Top Grip, as well. Be very careful as I came very close to going all the way through the resin when I was removing material. I kept on holding it up to a light source to see the thin spots to be wary of.
xu8m.jpg


Test fitted the battery pack and all fits quite flush.
ke07.jpg


Here is a tip I hope helps quite a few of the guys with the Transparent End Caps. I came up with a way that should work very well to keep paint from getting into the recess that will stay clear to light up.
-I cut a small strip of masking tape about a 1/4 inch wide
a3ui.jpg


-Then you just have to fold it so the adhesive sides are enclosed, then I used the tip of a toothpick to jam the tape down into the recess of the End Cap.
m5wc.jpg


-Try to leave a little overlap so it will be easier to take out after painting.
iyti.jpg


(Note: I have not painted my End Caps as of yet to see how this will play out but its the only masking technique I can come up with that will create a nice defined line. I will post up results once it is painted, hopefully sometime this weekend)

EDIT: I painted the end caps and removed the tape masking and it came out perfect. Used my hobby knife to gently pry up all the masking and slowly pulled it from the "light groove".
 
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Thanks for all of the great info and detail. I received my kits today and I am starting to work on them.

Awesome!
If you come up with tips of your own you gotta post em up! I would also love to see others progress pics!

This was my first resin kit so I'm excited to see all the different ways it can be done by others.
Oh and ArtFunk is selling a stand made for them now. You can get the info from the original Baton creation thread.
 
This is my first kit ever. I am just taking my time being extra careful. What kind of battery pack are you using? I figured I was going to use a 23A Battery but I am not sure if I can get the battery back to fit.
 
This is my first kit ever. I am just taking my time being extra careful. What kind of battery pack are you using? I figured I was going to use a 23A Battery but I am not sure if I can get the battery back to fit.

Taking your time is a good idea. Whenever anything is rushed, something usually happens that you don't want to happen.

It's a AAA two-battery holder. This one came from ArtFunk as part of the included electronics kit.
I did find myself trimming the edges along the bottom of the holder to fit better inside the handle.
 
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Taking your time is a good idea. Whenever anything is rushed, something usually happens that you don't want to happen.

It's a AAA two-battery holder. This one came from ArtFunk as part of the included electronics kit.
I did find myself trimming the edges along the bottom of the holder to fit better inside the handle.

It took me quite a while to fit the 23A battery in there but it worked. I was very nervous about breaking through the other side but I followed your advice and used a bright light to gauge thickness. This is my first kit so I am not 100% happy with my work, my wife's kit should turn out better.

 
Wow! Those lights look super bright! That's gonna light up really well through the end caps and control panel.

One of the reasons I got 2 kits was to use the first as a learning tool. That way for the second kit I could refine it even further.
Keep up with the good work and watch out for light bleed through. I'm dealing with that now and I'm having to paint areas inside the baton to keep the bleed through to a minimum. When the final paint goes on it should completely seal off any remaining light bleeding through.
 
Hey. Looks great!! I finished my kit a couple days ago. I'll post a couple pics of it. I need to repaint the inner area on the baton. When I painted the end parts, I stuffed mine with twisted cotton. It turned out pretty good. I didn't clear coat my baton yet. Needs a few touch ups. Nothing major. The hardest part was getting the numbers on the button pad! But I'm happy with it. :)
 
Final update on my Kit #1 build

Endcaps painted and ready to go on. A step I forgot to mention when I painted the main body and endcaps was to mask off the "attaching" surface of each to allow for whatever adhesive is used to adhere the best. This pic shows the bare resin that was covered with the masking.
http://imageshack.us/a/img15/4782/rxa1.jpg

So I glued on the End Caps and let that set for 24 hours before the next step, which would end up being the last step with many little steps as a part of it.
The first being the reflective backing for the Control Panel label. I used the method of a piece of paper placed over the label then traced the outline with a pen. After that just a matter of laying the paper over the reflective tape and tracing the pen along the black line on the paper to make an impression on the tape. That way I just used scissors to cut along the impression to get the same size as the label.
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/4097/k4mv.jpg

Then layed down the clear transfer tape across the black label (I opted not to remove the parts of the black decal that were supposed to be removed before putting the transfer tape on, but it can be done either way) and removed the black label and transfer tape from the decal backer.
http://imageshack.us/a/img507/526/b35q.jpg


Then I just layed the decal down onto the reflective side of the piece I cut earlier. It made the entire decal easier to handle. Removed the Transfer tape and then bent the decal to raised the edges along the cuts to remove the parts of the decal that were not needed. I used the tip of an Xacto knife to help raise the tiny edges. Once that was done, it was ready to lay down!
http://imageshack.us/a/img825/870/4mda.jpg

The Finished "Stunt" Baton
http://imageshack.us/a/img855/9648/d0zu.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img51/6184/9rhy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img842/7443/z1dr.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img850/5456/5kn2.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img826/570/ww52.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img824/4504/xjrk.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img43/2294/ysfc.jpg

Control Panel removed with internal magnet
http://imageshack.us/a/img842/3090/v0c4.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/3228/kgd.jpg

The Screen Used Baton pic that I based the paint scheme on
View attachment 197866


Thanks go out to the masterful ArtFunk for supplying us Programs with an awesome kit to work with. Grazie!!

Bandit great job, really well done;)
 
Bandit great job, really well done;)

Thanks ArtFunk! I'm enjoying doing this other kit as well and while its mostly the same getting it all together there are a few things I running into that are slowing me down, mostly mistakes I'm making, but they are easily resolved and I know it will be fantastic when I have it all together and turn it on for the first time. :)
 
Here are some photos of my finished baton. Needs a few touch ups & different color (gray) in the center areas. Tried to match it up to the prop colors.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
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