Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber

Kylash said:
Crazy to see how dark the booster still looks there, not much paint worn off yet. This is why I love this saber so much, it's there through the whole run, so much history in ever little ding and scratch.
Click to expand...

exactly! the dented/wobbly emitter must be from whacks from the opponents blade. the V2 is my all time favorite :love

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kevin926 said:
wait, is it the dishwasher, or just water in general that will darken aluminum? I'm guessing it would need to be hot water, soapy?
also, can you polish it back to clean and shiny after
Click to expand...

throwing it in the dish washer, i believe its not just the hot water but something to do with the cleaning detergent. if you google, they talk about what cleaner to use to avoid having the aluminum turn dark.

but like I've said before, i have read this is unhealthy to do. i dont know why? and am curious to what needs to be done after dishwashing aluminum to be safe. this is the main reason i haven't tried it, i dont want to get anyone in my house sick, or ruin my parents brand new machine :( thats all i need
 
So what about just using hot water with dishwasher detergent in a bowl? Can this also be polished to get that 2 tone look.
 
kevin926 said:
So what about just using hot water with dishwasher detergent in a bowl? Can this also be polished to get that 2 tone look.
Click to expand...

no idea, may be worth a try? find out what temperature your dishwasher water gets, and boil a pot of water to that temperature and drop the cleaner in. this is only a guess to me though
 
halliwax said:
no idea, may be worth a try? find out what temperature your dishwasher water gets, and boil a pot of water to that temperature and drop the cleaner in. this is only a guess to me though
Click to expand...
Atleast you wouldn't ruin the dishwasher or poison someone. I may try that however I'm curious about reversing it back to clean. I may just stick to the oil. I know I can polish that.
 
kevin926 said:
Atleast you wouldn't ruin the dishwasher or poison someone. I may try that however I'm curious about reversing it back to clean. I may just stick to the oil. I know I can polish that.
Click to expand...

i imagine a jewelers polisher would bring it back with out a problem, dont take that advice as bullying you into trying it though! lol :p
 
kevin926 said:
wait, is it the dishwasher, or just water in general that will darken aluminum? I'm guessing it would need to be hot water, soapy?
also, can you polish it back to clean and shiny after
Click to expand...

It's the dishwashing powder. Water won't do much of anything by itself. It's supposed to be the alkali (base) content that causes the discoloration. It might also be possible to use baking soda. I've also got some beer line cleaner that's very alkali which would probably work the best of all.

To polish parts back up I can run the hilt on my bench-top grinder with a convolute wheel (just awesome for softening edges and de-burring)
 
Last edited:
Y'know, this leather glove darkening the metal thing could also apply to the gold paint on the windvane... I imagine if you rubbed black leather gloves on gold paint long enough, it would darken to a nice dark brown...
 
Kylash said:
Y'know, this leather glove darkening the metal thing could also apply to the gold paint on the windvane... I imagine if you rubbed black leather gloves on gold paint long enough, it would darken to a nice dark brown...
Click to expand...

i can agree with ya on that.
 
Can anyone confirm if the emitter nipple has one or two grub screw holes?
V2original - Copy.PNG
 
Results coming in... Photos below.

Parts tested: Solo's Hold ROTJ V2 booster/pommel section + Spirit of Ob1's MK1 crystal chamber


Baking soda and hot water: No effect

Dishwasher detergent and hot water: No effect

Five Star Liquid Line Cleaner and water: immediate reaction on contact. Fizzing and oxygen being released from liquid. The effect was visibly different (opposite) on each piece.
• Ob1's chamber: white pasty/foam residue forms on outside of alu. Rinse it off to reveal BRIGHTER finish.
• SH booster/pommel: darkening within a seconds. Very consistent BLACK coating on outside of alu when removed. Survives rinsing but rubs off onto hands. Washing with soap and water with a sponge removes all traces of the black.

Dishwasher with Finish Powder detergent ("Normal" cycle): Success. Both parts visibly darkened overall.
• Ob1's crystal turned the typical grey I'd expect from old aluminum.
• SH's booster/pommel grey-brown patina


Here you can see the results on the SH booster/pommel with Liquid Line Cleaner (caustic cleanser) mixed with water (high concentration):

IMG_2860.jpgIMG_2862.jpg


And here the two test parts after a normal cycle in my dishwasher: Note the contrast against the un-tarnished original aluminum.

IMG_2863.jpg IMG_2864.jpg

The effects are reversible and can be cleaned up, reduced, evened-out, modulated, etc. easily with scotch-brite. I'll be tarnishing the entire saber prior to final prep and paint.
 
Last edited:
FInally i received the chunk from printer. I 3D modeled it after the seeing Hamill pop culture quest video captures which shows a larger and not squared chape than the one i had.

I printed in "stainless steel" The truth is that is 60% steel and 40% bronze so the final color is slightly different than steel, but is barely apreciable.
Even less is you weather it with some aluminium black or thinned paint. (Mine is not weathered)

The bad thing is that it came too rough and with coarse grain over it. I have used my dremel to sand and polish it a bit and this is the result.
You can see in the following pictures.

If some of you want one, i would consider to offer a few just at production cost (shapeways price)

Hope you like it :)

EDIT: I forgot, shapeways price is $7.42 plus shipping.


DSC03422.JPGDSC03423.JPGDSC03424.JPGDSC03425.JPGDSC03426.JPGDSC03427.JPGDSC03428.JPG
 
Last edited:
Inigou said:
FInally i received the chunk from printer. I 3D modeled it after the seeing Hamill pop culture quest video captures which shows a larger and not squared chape than the one i had.

I printed in "stainless steel" The truth is that is 60% steel and 40% bronze so the final color is slightly different than steel, but is barely apreciable.
Even less is you weather it with some aluminium black or thinned paint. (Mine is not weathered)

The bad thing is that it came too rough and with coarse grain over it. I have used my dremel to sand and polish it a bit and this is the result.
You can see in the following pictures.

If some of you want one, i would consider to offer a few just at production cost (shapeways price)

Hope you like it :)

EDIT: I forgot, shapeways price is $7.42 plus shipping.


View attachment 703509View attachment 703510View attachment 703511View attachment 703512View attachment 703513View attachment 703514View attachment 703515
Click to expand...


Very nice Inigou.....great job!!!!
 
Pixelpiper said:
Results coming in... Photos below.

Parts tested: Solo's Hold ROTJ V2 booster/pommel section + Spirit of Ob1's MK1 crystal chamber


Baking soda and hot water: No effect

Dishwasher detergent and hot water: No effect

Five Star Liquid Line Cleaner and water: immediate reaction on contact. Fizzing and oxygen being released from liquid. The effect was visibly different (opposite) on each piece.
• Ob1's chamber: white pasty/foam residue forms on outside of alu. Rinse it off to reveal BRIGHTER finish.
• SH booster/pommel: darkening within a seconds. Very consistent BLACK coating on outside of alu when removed. Survives rinsing but rubs off onto hands. Washing with soap and water with a sponge removes all traces of the black.

Dishwasher with Finish Powder detergent ("Normal" cycle): Success. Both parts visibly darkened overall.
• Ob1's crystal turned the typical grey I'd expect from old aluminum.
• SH's booster/pommel grey-brown patina


Here you can see the results on the SH booster/pommel with Liquid Line Cleaner (caustic cleanser) mixed with water (high concentration):

View attachment 703508View attachment 703506


And here the two test parts after a normal cycle in my dishwasher: Note the contrast against the un-tarnished original aluminum.

View attachment 703507 View attachment 703516

The effects are reversible and can be cleaned up, reduced, evened-out, modulated, etc. easily with scotch-brite. I'll be tarnishing the entire saber prior to final prep and paint.
Click to expand...

Of course the Starkiller booster doesnt come off of the main body so youd have to run the whole thing through the dishwasher, and if youve painted anything or have your stencils on, it kind of makes it impossible. I wonder if dissolving one of those packets and soaking it in hot water would work.
 
Kylash said:
Of course the Starkiller booster doesnt come off of the main body so youd have to run the whole thing through the dishwasher, and if youve painted anything or have your stencils on, it kind of makes it impossible. I wonder if dissolving one of those packets and soaking it in hot water would work.
Click to expand...

Same detergent in hot water soak did nothing for me. If the saber is painted with a good quality paint for aluminum, like Duracoat, Spraymax or Eastwood (2K) then there shouldn't be an issue running through a dishwasher cycle. If it's Krylon or some other big-box paint that comes off with a crooked stare, then all bets are off. :)
 
Trying to decide where the dark brown should start and stop on the neck. From this enhanced and oversaturated pic, it seems pretty clear the gold originally stopped where the emitter piece rotates. You can see the change to black.

Screen Shot 2017-02-02 at 11.28.20 AM.png

But what about where it ends going down past the windvane? Would the bottom of the windvane be the same color, does it extend down to the next thin neck piece or not? I havent been able to find any clear enough Obi shots to determine.
 

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