Hope you dont mind me using this, but if you zoom in on the last two photos you can see the emiter plate is misshapened the same back then as it is now. Does this mean that we now have to make replicars with warped emiter plates? Just a thorught.
Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber
- Thread starter ob1al
- Start date
Hope you dont mind me using this, but if you zoom in on the last two photos you can see the emiter plate is misshapened the same back then as it is now. Does this mean that we now have to make replicars with warped emiter plates? Just a thorught.
Pixelpiper
Well-Known Member
No. That will usually be the least of accuracy concerns with most people's sabers.
Not me, I'll be mapping this out and beating the hell out of mine...
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As will I.
Me too.
I've been beating the hell out of my Anakin Starkiller's, but it won't bend! Only dents on the edge.
is this because its machined and not cast?
i'm not an expert on materials science but i can imagine a cast object would have a bit more malleability than a lathed thing.
I could be completely wrong but my experience cast stuff is it's cracked before it's bent
I've learned with the race car stuff never to hear a cast piece of steel and hit it with a hammer because it can crack
I think the aluminum used on the V2's emitter is super soft. Star killers is probably high quality aluminum, and with that makes it harder to bend
I think I am going to heat mine with a torch and then try bending it in a vice. Again I really fear it breaking before it bends though...
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Like I told tom, once the weather gets warmer I'm going to heat the emitter up and try bending the edge slowly.
Fingers crossed she don't snap. I believe the original V2 emitter is from a softer grade aluminum then Starkillers and that's why it's so easily damaged
I'm also going to PM Dan see if he remembers what number aluminum he used on the first and second batch of v2s
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Pixelpiper
Well-Known Member
The alloy, thickness and lip diameter of the aluminum plus strike zone. I had to problem knocking some waves into the Solo's Hold emitter (it's pretty thin).
Pixelpiper
Well-Known Member
Sure, give me a few mins to snap something with my phone - I don't have any photos of the process, but I can describe that...
I put a scrap piece of 3/4" wood (oak) into a vice (it's destined for my smoker anyway) and then with the hilt at and angle repeatedly slammed the emitter into the edge of the wood. Using differing amounts of force and adjusting the angle to avoid any kind of pattern or obvious repetition. FWIW, I don't care if the bends match the prop.
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Pixelpiper
Well-Known Member
I haven't touched it since early last year, but now that I have a clamp and some self-etching paint I'll finally build it out within the next couple of months. I don't plan to put any knocks into the alternate open emitter face (the one used with a blade).
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russellsch
Master Member
Good luck. I can't wait to see the progress photos.
For me, I'm okay with my emitter not being warped. Now, as for dulling the pommel? I'll eventually jump on that one.
I hate working with cast! You can't modify it. It will break on you so fast. Cast is great if you are only painting, I don't even like drilling it. Larger areas are fine to drill and tap, but small ones are poopers!
I'm throwing mine off the roof.
I will beat the living heck out of it. And if that doesn't do it, I let my grandaughter play with it. She'll have it warped in no time
Lichtbringer
Master Member
No, it´s a question of the used alloy - alu is not alu. Not that one alloy is neccessary "better" than an other, it depends on what need the choice is made.
