Luke ROTJ V2 lightsaber

Pixelpiper said:
We don't know how many casts were made. We don't know what each one looked like. We don't know if they mixed and matched multiple cut pieces from multiple casts to make one saber. It's entirely possible that parts from different casts were combined
Click to expand...

Aye, totally possible, but .......;)

They didn´t cnc it. And without that each part is more or less a one off, that´s a thing that is often forgotten by todays machinists, they are used to push a button and each part is the same as the other. Conventional machined parts differ slighly if not made to high standards on purpose - and we know how sloppy they worked. Due to that the chance that parts are easily interchangeble is not very good.
 
I would like to see the bottom half of the cube section on the pommel. The top half to looks like the cube section slides over the circular part of the pommel. There is a gap between them, so it's either 2 pieces or a really detailed machine job
 
kevin926 said:
what type of acid do you recommend.
Click to expand...

I'm going to test some ferric chloride, that when soaked for a minute it 2 should give it a grey in color look... I got 1 more trick up my sleeve, and if that doesn't work it's a bust for me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
kevin926 said:
what type of acid do you recommend.
Click to expand...

Phosphoric acid seems to be the most common before paint. Even vinegar (acetic acid) can work with more time to etch. Then you'd probably need to paint and then remove the paint to get something similar to the V2. Alternatively, oven cleaner as Kylash mentioned or straight ammonia. You'd probably want to mask and use a brush.

- - - Updated - - -

kevin926 said:
I would like to see the bottom half of the cube section on the pommel. The top half to looks like the cube section slides over the circular part of the pommel. There is a gap between them, so it's either 2 pieces or a really detailed machine job
Click to expand...

Glad I'm not the only one that thinks it looks like a ring over a cylinder. But I happily discount that because it would be a PITA without a logical explanation that I can come up with. :)
 
2017-01-18 17.26.46.jpg

Not my photo but I marked it for my crazy idea.

My thought was the cubes to the pommel are separate and held in place by the mystery circle

The arrow points to the gap, the small circle is my pin that holds the cubes in place?

Is this totally out of the question or can it be possible.
 
halliwax said:
I'm going to test some ferric chloride, that when soaked for a minute it 2 should give it a grey in color look...
Click to expand...

I just looked that one up - you might want to be super careful as the results seem to be gotten very quickly. Image search shows people are using it to make some really cool relief stuff.
 
Pixelpiper said:
I just looked that one up - you might want to be super careful as the results seem to be gotten very quickly. Image search shows people are using it to make some really cool relief stuff.
Click to expand...

I've worked with it before. Gotta use small amounts and dump it every minute

Well I should say my moms worked with it a lot in the past when she use to make etchings.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Pixelpiper said:
Phosphoric acid seems to be the most common before paint. Even vinegar (acetic acid) can work with more time to etch. Then you'd probably need to paint and then remove the paint to get something similar to the V2. Alternatively, oven cleaner as Kylash mentioned or straight ammonia. You'd probably want to mask and use a brush.

- - - Updated - - -



Glad I'm not the only one that thinks it looks like a ring over a cylinder. But I happily discount that because it would be a PITA without a logical explanation that I can come up with. :)
Click to expand...

I was debating soaking it in used motor oil and leaving it in the hot florida sun for a few hours. Then I can use different methods of polishing areas I want to look different
 
6
kevin926 said:
I was debating soaking it in used motor oil and leaving it in the hot florida sun for a few hours. Then I can use different methods of polishing areas I want to look different
Click to expand...

Some online sources mention coating an aluminum part in linseed oil and then cooking it in the oven...
 
Testors Brand Dullcote should also do the trick. It can give it the look of a patina, which is what this looks like to me.
 
I have my new batch of V2 cards in, and they've been updated with a new pattern on the opposing side... I added the stunt pattern in gold plated and black matte soldermask. Seems to be what we're seeing for the Luke saber both for the stunt version in ROTJ and in episodes 7 and 8.

I ordered these with extra gold plating, and made sure the surface level of the gold plated traces matched the height of the black stripes. They're flush across the surface, so you can't tell they are there if you run your finger across. This will help them wear better over time, and not develop scuffs on raised areas of the surface.

rotjv2_rotjs.jpg


And for you folks who want the card to be green, I think it just depends on your lighting. However, when I do the silver solder job on it, and clean the flux off with acetone and polish, the fiberglass does go a little darker green than the unsoldered card. I suppose that's now a good thing, since the original prop card seems to have darkened with age.
 

Attachments

  • rotjv2_rotjs.jpg
    rotjv2_rotjs.jpg
    131 KB · Views: 79
slothfurnace said:
I have my new batch of V2 cards in, and they've been updated with a new pattern on the opposing side... I added the stunt pattern in gold plated and black matte soldermask. Seems to be what we're seeing for the Luke saber both for the stunt version in ROTJ and in episodes 7 and 8.

I ordered these with extra gold plating, and made sure the surface level of the gold plated traces matched the height of the black stripes. They're flush across the surface, so you can't tell they are there if you run your finger across. This will help them wear better over time, and not develop scuffs on raised areas of the surface.

http://slothfurnace.com/images/clampcard/rotjv2_rotjs.jpg

And for you folks who want the card to be green, I think it just depends on your lighting. However, when I do the silver solder job on it, and clean the flux off with acetone and polish, the fiberglass does go a little darker green than the unsoldered card. I suppose that's now a good thing, since the original prop card seems to have darkened with age.
Click to expand...

Just ordered! :D
 
slothfurnace said:
I have my new batch of V2 cards in, and they've been updated with a new pattern on the opposing side... I added the stunt pattern in gold plated and black matte soldermask. Seems to be what we're seeing for the Luke saber both for the stunt version in ROTJ and in episodes 7 and 8.

I ordered these with extra gold plating, and made sure the surface level of the gold plated traces matched the height of the black stripes. They're flush across the surface, so you can't tell they are there if you run your finger across. This will help them wear better over time, and not develop scuffs on raised areas of the surface.

http://slothfurnace.com/images/clampcard/rotjv2_rotjs.jpg

And for you folks who want the card to be green, I think it just depends on your lighting. However, when I do the silver solder job on it, and clean the flux off with acetone and polish, the fiberglass does go a little darker green than the unsoldered card. I suppose that's now a good thing, since the original prop card seems to have darkened with age.
Click to expand...

excellent job sloth!
 
Google Star Wars screen caps, plenty of screen grabs already hosted on that site. I use it all the time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

michaelmercury
Luke V2 Stainless Steel
Replies
7
Views
428
Jimsiss
J
Superpunkduck
Help With Luke ROTJ V2 Build
Replies
2
Views
668
Superpunkduck
Superpunkduck
Media Man
Luke V2 Throne Room Paint Reference Thread
2 3
Replies
58
Views
2,305
Poikilotherm
Poikilotherm
Tanhauser
Luke Skywalker ROTJ Belt build
2
Replies
20
Views
614
4str0m3ch
4str0m3ch
michaelmercury
Luke V2 Prop
Replies
8
Views
1,555
michaelmercury
michaelmercury
Back
Top