My 1/350 TOS Enterprise Build--- WIP

Update...

I've spent the past few days working on the upper bridge dome, the shuttle bay, and the shuttle itself.

For the bridge dome I wanted to add some interest to the underside.
I figure no one ever saw the actual ceiling of the bridge so I was free to add whatever I wanted.

For starters I drew a geometric design on some scrap sheet styrene.
I also cut a hollow disc from Evergreen tubing to go in the center.
A rhinestone fit inside the disc very nicely:

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I also found some decals in my stash that looked like gold screening which I cut out and applied to the front of the housings around the "A" deck contacts. I know they liked the look of screens on the original series so it fit into my sense of the design ethos back then:

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The finished underside of the bridge dome. I went with a grey and red color scheme to match the look of the bridge below.
I also used the gold screen decals in the center pie sections:

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I had two rectangular rare earth magnets that looked like they might fit inside the shuttle cavity:

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Sure enough, they were a perfect fit:

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I glued the second magnet to the underside of the shuttle bay floor using Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy:

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I noticed there were no landing pads on the shuttle so I cut the heads off some small pins and glued them into holes drilled into the front underside of the nacelles:

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For the rear landing strut I bent a pin near the head and cemented it into a hole drilled into the stern undercut:

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The shuttle in profile. It has just the right degree of tilt now I think.
The magnet inside really grabbed the cap on this bottle of paint... or needle files... or pins... or tweezers... or any ferrous metallic surface:

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As you can see here, the shuttle can be placed on the floor of the bay and held upside down without fear of falling due to the attraction between the magnet inside it and it's mate under the shuttle bay floor:

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Moving on, for the shuttle bay parts, I masked off the sand colored areas on the walls and airbrushed them with a 50/50 mix of Dark Ghost Grey and Neutral Grey. Then I removed the tape on the windows and brushed them with fluorescent white acrylic paint. This included the ceiling too:

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I've already painted the photo etch parts with the 50/50 grey mix and will glue them to the walls and ceiling next.

Thanks for reading!
 
Could you tell me how you applied the PPP? Your gridline fills look so clean. What tool did you use to put the PPP in the cracks? Much sanding involved after?

I used a syringe to fill the gridlines, smoothed the putty over with a dampened fingertip, then wiped the excess off with a sponge. Turned out I was being too neat and clean though.
After priming I could still see the gridlines; although, they may have been somewhat shallower than before.
I should have left more putty over the lines.

I threw neatness to the wind then, going whole hog with the second application of putty:

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After about an hour of drying time I went back and started sanding.
I started with 150 grit, then 180, then 600 before calling it good.
Talk about a lot of dust!
I'd sand for about a minute or two and then blow it off.
I'd also smack the sandpaper between my palms from time to time.
I did not wet sand though as I was worried it might cause the water-based putty to dissolve even after drying.
I did noit use a sanding block either as I wanted to have the "feel" of the surface against my fingertips as I sanded.

Here's the upper saucer after about 90 minutes of sanding:

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The saucer halves after a second priming. I used Dupli-Color High Build Filler Primer bought at the auto parts store.
Look Ma! No gridlines!

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So the lesson learned is, don't spare the PPP!

P.S. Be careful not to fill in the triangular incised lines on the lower half where the two "landing legs" are located or the 3 deep concentric rings. If any putty dries in them you can scrape it off easily with a scribing tool or any pointed sculpting tool. Same for the windows. For the upper half I also filled in the rectangular lines on either side of the impulse engine "linear accelerator" since they were just decals on the studio model.
 
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Update...

ParaGrafix PE was attached to the walls and ceiling. PPP was then applied between the observation booth PE window frames and later retouched with the 50/50 grey mix to block light leaks. PPP was also used to bring the frame edges up to the level of the slanted lower surfaces of the booths. Basically I wanted the frames to look integrated with the booths.

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The back wall and floor:

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The floor was sprayed with Tamiya Ocean Gray 2 which is very close to the color of the 50/50 mix.

The walls and ceiling were sprayed with Testors Glosscote in preparation for decaling:

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I also sprayed the shuttle with Tamiya Light Ghost Grey.
Prior to that I extended the rear landing strut so it is more in line with the bottom of the rear of the nacelles.
Oh... and there are lots of decals for the shuttle too:
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For the nacelles I'll paint them a slightly darker tone using Testors Light Ghost Grey and a touch of black (or maybe steel).
Or if one of my other grey paints is a little darker I'll just use that.
I must have a half dozen shades of grey in my stash right now.
 
Looks amazing, I'd would never be able to do something with this level of detail. I don't have hands steady enough to do small stuff like that bridge and those figures. Guess I wasn't cut out to be a doctor ;-)

Looking forward to seeing the finished work.
 
I ended up redoing some of the PE on the small observation booths on the sidewalls of the bay and removed the white fluorescent acrylic from all the shuttle bay windows. ParaGrafix conveniently provided an extra set of PE for the observation booth frames which was fortunate as it allowed me to discard the old mangled frames after removal and apply new PE frames with fresh paint! The windows are clear now and the frames are much cleaner...

Here are a few pics of what I finished yesterday and this evening...

There are two harnesses labelled "M" for connecting the saucer board to the single 5MM flasher LEDm on each side of the saucer at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. The LED sits sideways between the holes top and bottom where you insert the plastic domes for the flashing formation lights. As is, the LED is bright enough but it's not pointed directly up or down to get the most illumination shining thru the plastic inserts so... I cut off the LED on each harness and spliced in two clear 2mm lighthouse LEDs wired in parallel purchased from Modeman Tom's website, Modeler's Brand Hobby Supplies.
Here's the link to his site:
Welcome to Modeler's Brand Hobby Supplies Online Shop!

The board is providing 5V so no resistors are needed.
These LED's have long round narrow flat-topped necks that are the perfect size to fit thru the upper dome hole; just drill or route out a matching diameter sized cavity in the red and green domes provided in the lighting kit and insert the LED up thru the hull and cement into the plastic dome. For the lower flasher you would drill a matching cavity partway into the smaller clear part and then insert the kit part thru the hull in the lower saucer.

Anyway, in this pic you can see the lighting kit harness on top and my retro-fitted harness below. I now have separate dedicated flashers for each dome light top and bottom on each side:

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Here are the shuttle bay walls and floor. Only the Galileo shuttle, back wall and floor have been decalled at this point:

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The back wall:

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The shuttle:

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Tomorrow I should be able to finish the wall decaling and assemble the bay.
 
Thanks for the kind words guys.:D

Today's work...

Got started on the base. I'm using the base from the Refit kit; the Refit will get the round base from this kit. I cut out rectangular openings for the two lighted rocker switches on top for my two circuits; drilled out an opening on the side for the "M" sized DC panel jack the power supply plugs into; and carved an opening in the channel down the middle for the support tube to slide into. Then I gave it multiple coats of Dupli-Color primer:

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I plan to spray it with Krylon Black and then give it a coat of Krylon Steel. I even have decals for the lighted panels that were included on the Refit's decal sheet. Too cool! I didn't even know the Refit base had decals until I tuned in to Steve Neill's blog and saw where he was using the same base and his customer asked him to apply them. They will look great I think; especially if I can mount a few LEDs on top and shine them up at the underside of the Enterprise.

Moving along, I also mixed up a batch of paint for the main hull color. I used two bottles of MM Imperial Japanese Navy Sky Grey, most of a bottle of thinned ACE Shady Cove (left over from my 1/1000 build); most of a bottle of MM Flat White; and a dash of MM SAC Bomber Green to taste. It's pretty close to what I want, I might want to add a little more white.

Here are a few pics of the mix against a color sample from ACE...

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and next to the unpainted kit plastic...

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It's veeeeery close to the shade I'm looking for I think.
 
Awesome. I uused to be an avid kitbuilder myself, but never this detailed. I should get back to this. So much awesome!
 
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