Avengers HAWKEYE BOW

canadapost

Well-Known Member
First, a disclaimer! Jeremy Renner is left-handed and I'm right-handed. Since I want this bow to be fully-functional, it will need to be right-handed; which would make this a mirrored replica of Hawkeye's bow. :)

I wanted to do this for a couple reasons - primarily b/c I shot for about 10-years back in middle/high school and haven't touched a bow for several years now and want to get back into the sport (this is a great excuse!). Also, Renner was awesome as Hawkeye in The Avengers - I wasn't sure how 2 'humans' would integrate into the team but both Renner and Johansson (+ Whedon) completely held their own.

Onto the prop!

I recently got my hands on a Hoyt Buffalo bow (Thanks to the many RPF members that identified real-life bow!) and plan to modify it to match the screen-used bow. I was lucky enough to grab the Blackout Edition of the bow; which looks pretty slick - too bad there are still a tonne of Hoyt logos on both the upper and lower limbs.

One thought I had is to skin the front and back of the limbs with the same 3M vinyl used to matte the surface of cars. That way I can: 1) preserve the original condition of the bow (I have no intention of permanently changing any part of this bow); and 2) glue components directly onto the vinyl; which should make them secure enough for shooting.

As for the various components, I'm trying to teach myself how to use Blender with the end goal of 3D printing them. So far, I've managed to experiment with the limb hinges. The measurements seem to be a little off which will require a little tweaking.

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

Bow_2.jpg

photo_2.jpg

Bow_Hinge_2.jpg
 
Re: My quest to create an accurate and functional Avengers HAWKEYE BOW

Seems like a simple enough hinge to me. Why not forego the printing and cut it out of aluminum or resined foam? You need nine teardrop pieces per hinge, and a rod (maybe a dowel) that fits 7/8 of the round end. That's simple enough without going to the expense and learning curve of 3d printing.
 
Re: My quest to create an accurate and functional Avengers HAWKEYE BOW

Seems like a simple enough hinge to me. Why not forego the printing and cut it out of aluminum or resined foam? You need nine teardrop pieces per hinge, and a rod (maybe a dowel) that fits 7/8 of the round end. That's simple enough without going to the expense and learning curve of 3d printing.

Thanks for the advice Theist! I'm new to this type of creation - zero experience all-around - wouldn't know how to cut it out of aluminum or resined foam either. :p

I figure I'd learn how to do something and CAD/CGI is something I've always been curious about. Plus, there are three other pieces I'll need to create in order to complete this replica and CAD seems like it would be the most flexible/precise for all three?

Components.jpg
 
Love to see this thread progressing! I would definitely stick with the 3D rendering and printing as those were the procedures used on the screen used props. I've yet to start work on mine as I'm still working the costume pieces, but my plan was to go the route you're currently taking with the 3D builds then some molding of the pieces and pours of the pieces in urethane. The reason being as you pointed out, why ruin a perfectly good bow, when greeblies can be added that won't affect performance.;)
 
Love to see this thread progressing! I would definitely stick with the 3D rendering and printing as those were the procedures used on the screen used props. I've yet to start work on mine as I'm still working the costume pieces, but my plan was to go the route you're currently taking with the 3D builds then some molding of the pieces and pours of the pieces in urethane. The reason being as you pointed out, why ruin a perfectly good bow, when greeblies can be added that won't affect performance.;)

Thanks again for your reference photos J!

I got some of the vinyl sheets in and they're quite easy to work with - much easier than I had imagined. Not exactly accurate, but I thought I'd skin the stock wood grain grip with some carbon fiber. Hitting the film with a hairdryer really helped with shaping the curves. Looks better than the wood IMHO.

Grip_Small.jpg


And I also managed to completely skin the upper and lower limbs with the black matte vinyl. I don't have any process photos, but what I did was quite simple. I cut 4 strips of the material to match the length of the 2 limbs and the width of the strips were enough to cover the front/back and the sides.

I attached one strip to the back of the limbs first (made sure to wrap it over the sides) and used an x-acto to trim the excess. And then did the same to the front.

They look great! I can't even make out the seams of the vinyl film unless I really search for them. Closer photos can be taken if anyone wants the reference.

DSC_0247.jpg

Untitled.jpg
 
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Thanks again for your reference photos J!

I got some of the vinyl sheets in and they're quite easy to work with - much easier than I had imagined. Not exactly accurate, but I thought I'd skin the stock wood grain grip with some carbon fiber. Hitting the film with a hairdryer really helped with shaping the curves. Looks better than the wood IMHO.

http://s16.postimg.org/rpmsxm6gl/Grip_Small.jpg

And I also managed to completely skin the upper and lower limbs with the black matte vinyl. I don't have any process photos, but what I did was quite simple. I cut 4 strips of the material to match the length of the 2 limbs and the width of the strips were enough to cover the front/back and the sides.

I attached one strip to the back of the limbs first (made sure to wrap it over the sides) and used an x-acto to trim the excess. And then did the same to the front.

They look great! I can't even make out the seams of the vinyl film unless I really search for them. Closer photos can be taken if anyone wants the reference.

http://s9.postimg.org/vukh91gbz/DSC_0247.jpg
http://s23.postimg.org/jnrt5ub4r/Untitled.jpg
Its looking great. Really curious about what your going to do as and for the laser sight. Also the two hinges that connect the bow handle to the limbs. any ideas of what they could be or if its even possible...
 
Any one know where to get the laser sight or how to attach it. Also what and how those hinges at the base of the bow where attached?
 
Any one know where to get the laser sight or how to attach it. Also what and how those hinges at the base of the bow where attached?

All the greeblies are 3D designed/printed and attached to different filming models. No confirmation on how they were attached as the folks that were involved are under NDAs, but I would assume the detail pieces like the laser, grip and buttons were all attached and then the entire riser section of the bow molded and casted, etc. And then the same process for the entire bow with the hinges added.
 
Looks very cool so far!
I think the Buffalo Hunter is the best and most beautiful recurve bow you can get.
I would love to be able to afford one :p
Good luck with this build!
 
It also has some purple in it. He has also switched to a tunic and a new costume as well. I have already started researching it.
 
Yep, mine is all black, and the purple in the bow is dark enough i think all black will be fine. Plus.. they won't offer it in purple, so you would have to strip the coating off the riser and get powder coated custom.
 
Does anyone know anybody producing his different style arrowheads. I have tried to recreate these but with no success. Any help will be appreciated.
 
As I look at the Hoyt and Hawk bows, it seems that the circular larger hinge near the riser ends may be a cut down shock dampener or a possible actual shock dampener for that bow.

One example of this might be: http://www.axionarchery.com/Products/LimbDampers.aspx

The arrow shelf area where the "laser" is could be an integrated piece that's custom designed. Also, there are a lot of neat photos in the Art of Marvel's Avengers Movie book too.

KK2
 
Re: My quest to create an accurate and functional Avengers HAWKEYE BOW

Thanks for the advice Theist! I'm new to this type of creation - zero experience all-around - wouldn't know how to cut it out of aluminum or resined foam either. :p

I figure I'd learn how to do something and CAD/CGI is something I've always been curious about. Plus, there are three other pieces I'll need to create in order to complete this replica and CAD seems like it would be the most flexible/precise for all three?

http://s22.postimg.org/ddlz56cz5/Components.jpg

I can do the Auto CAD work for you. I use Autodesk inventor. It mainly focuses on CAD, but has more flexibility with some 3D modeling features comparable to blender (in fact, I think it's better than blender because you can use precise measurements to get exact shape when you 3D print). I have a buddy in SLC who does 3D printing. If you want to do it yourself, you can go to lynda.com. They have tutorials on just about every kind of program you can think of. Trial version is free, but after that it's $20/mo, so I would use the trial version (when you have the time....it's a time limit trial period) and just sit down and binge listen to the basic trainings on Autodesk Inventor. You can get the full pro version of inventor for free if you are a student. Other than that, it's really spendy.
 
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