Tips to paint a Luke Jedi stunt saber (from ILM mold) - PICS ADDED

TylerHam

Well-Known Member
Hi all

I have a Luke Jedi stunt saber - the one shot from r2 (I'm no saber expert so I don't know it's designation) that is taken from the ILM original molds. I need to strip some paint and clean up the small mold line, but I'm curious about the paints to use. The brushed silver and metallic copper - is there a reliable spray paint I can use for these?

Anyone who has painted one before, would love some help!

Tyler
 
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Re: Tips to paint a Luke Jedi stunt saber

I'm afraid I can't help with the paint, would love to see it though, pics?
 
Re: Tips to paint a Luke Jedi stunt saber

Hi there,

if you truly have a stunt saber from the original ILM molds I would not clean up the mold line since that would be the only distinction from all other replica's out there and make it much more valuable. However as thd9791 suggested pictures would be nice . . . before you do any modifications.

-Chaim
 
Re: Tips to paint a Luke Jedi stunt saber

Sorry for the slow pic taking! Hard to shoot being black - But here it is - REsin with thin black primer..

Its smaller than the regulat saber - I was told so it can fit through the R2 Dome - The mold line is VERY hard to see - Almost TOO hard to see if you dont know where to look, so maybe I will just leave it...

jedistunt.jpg
 
Re: Tips to paint a Luke Jedi stunt saber - PICS ADDED

Im no saber expert so if this is something else, please let me know!
 
You have it right, that is a copy of what eventually became the hero saber. The mold line on my own is not pretty and there are obviously some problems with the overall geometry. A minor trim, fill some bubbles, and shoot it silver. The original versions weren't anything more than a rattle can finish.
 
If I'm not mistaken, it's a cast of the prop after the control box was modified. Which was either during the end or after filming wrapped, as the modified box never saw screen time. It's amazing to see another ILM cast though, You are a lucky person to own one!
 
Thank you! It's apparently direct from the mold, though it was years after ROTJ wrapped.
 
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The modifications to the control box were made for the Luke builds a new light saber scene on tatooine. You can see the red arrow light up and the extra gray bars under the angle brass in the deleted scene. So at least it was intended to be in the film that way even if it doesn't looks the same in Vader's hands on Endor.
 
Thank you! It's apparently direct from the mold, though it was years after ROTJ wrapped.

Would this be something anyone would be interested In a run of, before I paint it?


This is the saber you bought from Neil right?

The one we sold him from our run?

and....you're gonna recast it?

and the Recasting Resin Police are silent?

How telling.


I'm not trying to bust your nuts Tyler, just curious as to what all the Flag Waving Defenders of Recasting Police are going to say or they just gonna keep their little hypocritical mouths shut and send you money.

I have always found it amusing when they beat on someone they do not like, especially if it is a item they do not want, but when it is something they want for their own collection, the silence is deafening.
 
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Ha! Well, for context of anyone who is reading this - before I get labeled as a "potential" recater - This piece was purchased a few years back, I put a less than stellar paint job on it and it ended up in my storage unit - Fast forward to a few weeksback when I found it, and only partially remembered the history behind it... And it was an HONEST mistake.

When I was called out on the history via an email conversation I have entirely forgotten, I pulled the offer for the run!
 
Good to know, I was going to say! Lets move on. this is a great piece of work, i heard about this technique of brushing on thin layers of silver paint over a black layer. Check out Kevin Gossett's thread
 
This is the saber you bought from Neil right?

The one we sold him from our run?

and....you're gonna recast it?

and the Recasting Resin Police are silent?

How telling.


I'm not trying to bust your nuts Tyler, just curious as to what all the Flag Waving Defenders of Recasting Police are going to say or they just gonna keep their little hypocritical mouths shut and send you money.

I have always found it amusing when they beat on someone they do not like, especially if it is a item they do not want, but when it is something they want for their own collection, the silence is deafening.

I think you didn't hear any complaining because he had said they came out of ILMs molds. When i read that i pictured someone at ILM had cast it and he bought it. Which i guess passed the recasting muster. If he had said it came from Franks run i am sure he would of heard a different tone. Thats the fine line we surf here i guess.

Either way , awesome saber Tyler!
 
Did the Yumas/hero's have uneven grips too? For some reason I thought it was only an ANH/shared/v2 stunt thing, and they were all even in the 80s. All these cool ILM casts have the crazy rings, and it just occured to me that I was confused lol...so many little details to keep straight!
 
The way I remembered the lineage of the prop (Which was different than the reality) was that this WAS from ILM, and since "recasting" something from a mold seems to be fine by "our" rules, I didnt see any harm. I had forgotten that this was cast from a saber from an ILM mold - Hence making it a rule breaker. Its my fault for forgetting that middle fact - It was NOT a "convieniently forgotten" thing, it was a genuine mistake.

Either way - I still plan on painting it up and it is a super neat piece. Ill post pics when its all done up!
 
I have painted several resin sabers. I sold most of them, but stayed with this one which has been my favorite creation:

231119_4500370901758_1370502914_n.jpg


I can tell the best way to paint resin is with a brush. With spray paint you might miss some fine detail. Resin is more jealous than metal, so if there's a mistake, it will be much more easily seen on the saber. You need a surgeon's pulse though.

I've used acrylic Tamiya paints for modelling. "Chrome silver" is the tone you want, should you decide going for the brush technique with Tamiya paints. For the neck "copper" looks great. After the even "chrome silver" cover, you may want to add some dry brushing randomly to give it a weathered look, using a little darker paint. I've used "flat aluminum" for that. I repainted one eFx Luke hero once using those paints, since it originally had a very flat look (by the way, this saber seems to have been taken from the same mold as yours). This was the end result:

$(KGrHqF,!hcFC96Y(M)kBQ6O5Zz2Bg~~60_57.JPG


Look how there is a darker paint brushed all over it to give it that realistic look:

$T2eC16d,!yME9s5qIFncBQ3)iEevew~~60_57.JPG


When paint job is done, wait a couple of days and add "Semi-Gloss clear" cover. That one does come in spray (I think code is TS-79). It kinda hardens the paint protecting it pretty well, and adds that nice shiny look.

These are a couple more I painted before. Here I didn't use the dry brush thing, only an even coating of paint (Tamiya as well). Windu's has Flat Aluminum, and Obi's Chrome Silver (which is slightly more clear):

224405_4347062469143_1074896954_n.jpg


543430_4320633608438_939379864_n.jpg


Hope this helps. If you want further details and I can help with that, just let me know and I'll be glad to help. Good luck on the project :) it's a great saber you got there.


Hi all

I have a Luke Jedi stunt saber - the one shot from r2 (I'm no saber expert so I don't know it's designation) that is taken from the ILM original molds. I need to strip some paint and clean up the small mold line, but I'm curious about the paints to use. The brushed silver and metallic copper - is there a reliable spray paint I can use for these?

Anyone who has painted one before, would love some help!

Tyler
 
^ That eFX is clearly not from the same mold since it doesn't have the uneven rings on the 'grenade' section ... nice paint job though.

@ Tyler could you make a close-up of your activation board to see if it indeed has recessed stripes? I believe the black lines should be higher then the copper/brass and since this is from a mold/cast of the upgraded Hero it should be visible on yours, yes?

-Chaim
 
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