Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

Not really. All the screen worn MAGs with the exception of the FX pair (the actual shoes used to show Power Laces) are elastic and velcro, so we are all good there.

Well, sure....because they had to......:lol

If BTTF2 were made today, the prop could actually be real powerlace shoes like the design sketches show.
 
good for you, well we all know they are knock offs but for the price you still want a decent product! I'm still holding off till they fix a couple of the problems. And till I even think about ordering a pair! (Even though they look so good) hope they help you sort your problem (I feel it for you) all the best :)

So I emailed their after sales team and they offered either a return or a $20 (negotiated to $25) refund. Which I've accepted [emoji2]


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MrSouthpaw said:
Non-PL Hyperadapt are being listed on dhgate for $300.

As you said "eye of the beholder". Doesn't change my opinion that they are still ugly, old person shoes.

And how do they lace up? Shoe laces? LOL what contradiction to the original design.

Yes, not taken with the look of the Hyperadapt, but I still support their creation as we need to have something better than the pieces of string we've been using to do up our shoes for hundreds of years. :) A rep of a 'powerlace' thing should at least have elastics like the MAGs or Shibusa's so you don't have to tie them up.......
 
A 2 stage pump supposedly pulls deeper, but in the end, most vacuum pumps can only pull 1 x 10^-3 anyway. The size of the chamber and the size of the pump will determine how fast you get there. How big is your chamber? How many CFM is the pump?

ClearFlex 50 sounds like it would have a shore hardness of A50. The stuff I use is A65. So a slightly softer rubber, but it will grip really good. Having said that, my very first attempt back in 2012 was A80 and it gripped good too.



Given the master part is 2 parts, I would suggest that two parts is the way to go. I made my original V2 soles are a single piece and had all sorts of air lock issues. Breaking them down solved many of them.



I was discussing magnets with RVLF the other day. If I get time, I will mock up my strap idea.

My bad, I was going from memory. It isn't two stage, it is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KIFMQ4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for the insight on the mold. I also got some Monster Clay to see about making half of the mold by pouring the mold line. My office looks like a messed up fondue party.

I would be interested to see that as another viewpoint. My thinking is using the Nitinol to hold the magnets apart, and initiate their movement to come into their attraction range. The magnets would hold the laces in a locked position but at this time I could only see a manual reset by physically pulling the laces out. Thermomorph is an excellent "bonding" agent to secure the magnets to the lace material, as well protect the magnets from slamming together and shattering. The neodymium magnets are amazing, but they are brittle. I have inadvertently shattered two of them simply through carelessness. They are cheap too, at least the pull strength ranges I am playing with.

I am of the mindset to modify the magnet lacing system isolated to a replacement insole. It will still require cutting open bottom of the interior upper to gain access to the ends of the laces, but it should be as reversible as such a modification could be. - on a housekeeping note should I start this as a thread or move it into the V2 modding? These aren't V2's and those other mods really are not about power lace systems, and guidance is appreciated.
 
Good luck with that. I asked for a refund due to over charges and they said they'd do it...that was 2 months ago.

Well unless they want it spreading that they are untrustworthy and not true to their word, I'm sure they will provide the refund. Not worth the bad press and word of mouth to lose out on sales. But thanks for the heads up [emoji1303]


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My bad, I was going from memory. It isn't two stage, it is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KIFMQ4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for the insight on the mold. I also got some Monster Clay to see about making half of the mold by pouring the mold line. My office looks like a messed up fondue party.

I would be interested to see that as another viewpoint. My thinking is using the Nitinol to hold the magnets apart, and initiate their movement to come into their attraction range. The magnets would hold the laces in a locked position but at this time I could only see a manual reset by physically pulling the laces out. Thermomorph is an excellent "bonding" agent to secure the magnets to the lace material, as well protect the magnets from slamming together and shattering. The neodymium magnets are amazing, but they are brittle. I have inadvertently shattered two of them simply through carelessness. They are cheap too, at least the pull strength ranges I am playing with.

I am of the mindset to modify the magnet lacing system isolated to a replacement insole. It will still require cutting open bottom of the interior upper to gain access to the ends of the laces, but it should be as reversible as such a modification could be. - on a housekeeping note should I start this as a thread or move it into the V2 modding? These aren't V2's and those other mods really are not about power lace systems, and guidance is appreciated.
You should definetly create a topic for this subject, or these informations would be lost in the deepness of this thread ^^

And for your tests, I recommand you to use a cheap shoe and just place elastic bands attached to one side (I think it is better to fix them on the inside part of the feet)
And attach the other side of the elastic bands to your wire (I used 1 wire attached to 2 ends connected to the 4 laces)

Anyway, I think the best way of making the PL is the way I did it on my second test (you know what I talk about ;) ) but by 3D print the model to allow the system to be smaller than the smallest dual action system we were talking about. I guess that if you use some magnet attached to both ends of the mecanism, it would secure and lock better. But it would be harder to release the laces :/
I wish I had time to get back to this experiment (and have the material to make it better - I don't remember if I told you that I did it with wood sticks :D )

By the way, Are you planning to mold the entire sole ?


Non-PL Hyperadapt are being listed on dhgate for $300.
mmm... the only interest of those Hyperadapt is the Powerlaces so, if they don't have the EARL system, why would anyone get to pay 300$ for some simple shoes with a big lighting led box :/ it is way to much money for a simple shoe :/
 
You should definetly create a topic for this subject, or these informations would be lost in the deepness of this thread ^^

And for your tests, I recommand you to use a cheap shoe and just place elastic bands attached to one side (I think it is better to fix them on the inside part of the feet)
And attach the other side of the elastic bands to your wire (I used 1 wire attached to 2 ends connected to the 4 laces)

Anyway, I think the best way of making the PL is the way I did it on my second test (you know what I talk about ;) ) but by 3D print the model to allow the system to be smaller than the smallest dual action system we were talking about. I guess that if you use some magnet attached to both ends of the mecanism, it would secure and lock better. But it would be harder to release the laces :/
I wish I had time to get back to this experiment (and have the material to make it better - I don't remember if I told you that I did it with wood sticks :D )

By the way, Are you planning to mold the entire sole ?



mmm... the only interest of those Hyperadapt is the Powerlaces so, if they don't have the EARL system, why would anyone get to pay 300$ for some simple shoes with a big lighting led box :/ it is way to much money for a simple shoe :/



Spare time has not been on my side as of late, so I hear you on irons in the fire. I will try to organize my ideas and thoughts into a dedicated thread tomorrow, if time permits. I have been very interested in materials. The electro-memory metal alloys are one, but there are so many more! There are magnetic shape memory alloys too. There are some amazing 3M carbon nanotube treatments that contract like human muscles under current. The list goes on and on. We do live in interesting times!

There is some stuff called hydroshrink that could reduce your part sizes without the need for 3D printing. Similarly, adding zippo fluid to silicone can have the same effect. Thermomorph could be the mold and the shrinking agent would be the casting part. But, hard Monster Clay or an equivalent could provide a suitable mold.

I had not decided how far I would go with this. I operate services in support of people with disabilities. The setup seemed like I could make other fun stuff with them, and thereby explore this interest too. I am really only in it for my parts, not for a commercial endeavor. I have been tempted more than once to completely disassemble one of my pairs:)
 
My bad, I was going from memory. It isn't two stage, it is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KIFMQ4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are good little kits for the money. You'll find that pump is either 2.5 or 3 cmf and half HP. It will pull the needed 30" in about 1min in that size chamber. Be sure to always check your oil levels and open the valve before shutting off the pump. I open mine before turning it on as well. This way it get gradual load and not full on load from the get go.

Thank you for the insight on the mold. I also got some Monster Clay to see about making half of the mold by pouring the mold line. My office looks like a messed up fondue party.

You should be OK with that so long as it is sulphur free. Do you know the shore hardness of the silicone?

I would be interested to see that as another viewpoint. My thinking is using the Nitinol to hold the magnets apart, and initiate their movement to come into their attraction range. The magnets would hold the laces in a locked position but at this time I could only see a manual reset by physically pulling the laces out. Thermomorph is an excellent "bonding" agent to secure the magnets to the lace material, as well protect the magnets from slamming together and shattering. The neodymium magnets are amazing, but they are brittle. I have inadvertently shattered two of them simply through carelessness. They are cheap too, at least the pull strength ranges I am playing with.

I really have zero experience with that wire.

I am of the mindset to modify the magnet lacing system isolated to a replacement insole. It will still require cutting open bottom of the interior upper to gain access to the ends of the laces, but it should be as reversible as such a modification could be. - on a housekeeping note should I start this as a thread or move it into the V2 modding? These aren't V2's and those other mods really are not about power lace systems, and guidance is appreciated.

We almost need an "alternative" mod thread which would include customisation of these shoes.

- - - Updated - - -

Guys 500 dollars for replica shoes it's expensive..wake up..!

Then don't buy them.
 
Hi guys long time no speak! Im enjoying my v3's every day just by watching them.
I found a extra pair with broken lights for very cheap. and i bought them.
i want to try to fix them by myself is there someone that can help me where the wiring failure would be and what i should do?
 
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