Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

It is pretty simple to implement the RF control to the circuit, you just need to swap the push button for the RF module

There are several different modules, but the most common ones are those 4 channel modules.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/oozi/20130721_0046101111_zps80810a36.jpg

The Arduino is linked to one of the channel pins (in our case, using the code of the 1st page, the Digital pin 2 of the Arduino will be linked to D0, D1, D2 or D3) in all cases you will still need a physical Pull-Down resistor or to use the built in Pull-UP activating it via code.

If you wanna see if the signal is being correctly received by the receiver, you can add a led on the VT pin, that will blink when the receiver is receiving any data.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/oozi/20130721_005634_zpsf1831e86.jpg

as you guys can see, it is pretty simple.

ok how do i conect this to the arduino
 
Hey everyone, I've read through the thread but would like to know more about what people are using for power? Alkaline batteries seem the cheapest and safest route but bulky and heavy. I worry about having enough room in the helmet to accommodate multiple battery packs for the board and servos.

Has anyone used something like these: 2600 mAh USB Power Bank Portable External Battery with Flash LED for iPhone PSP | eBay

I would think two or 3 could be used. I do have a concern over safety though as lipo batteries near your head could be an issue.


Oh as far as small board discussions go, this could be useful if the project takes off: Flutter: $20 Wireless Arduino with half mile (1km) range. by Flutter Wireless ? Kickstarter
 
I keep saying/recommending +7.4v Li-Ion packs..

2 x cells (+3.7v) wired into a +7.4v battery pack.


yout not really going to get much smaller than that.... unless you go Li-Po (not sure how safe it is to have a Li-Po set-up by your head.. for these DIY type projects)..

you could wire your battery pack to be re-chargeable as well and never have to remove them from your bucket.

That flutter is a cool project.. not sure how much you'd get out of it for this though.. especially when a nano or pro-mini can be purchased for like under $5.00..
 
I keep saying/recommending +7.4v Li-Ion packs..

2 x cells (+3.7v) wired into a +7.4v battery pack.


yout not really going to get much smaller than that.... unless you go Li-Po (not sure how safe it is to have a Li-Po set-up by your head.. for these DIY type projects)..

you could wire your battery pack to be re-chargeable as well and never have to remove them from your bucket.

That flutter is a cool project.. not sure how much you'd get out of it for this though.. especially when a nano or pro-mini can be purchased for like under $5.00..

Any links for the pack you recommend?

As far as flutter, what appealed to me is the simplicity in wireless communication. The receiving unit can be the driver in the bucket while the sending unit can be placed in somewhere else on the body allowing wireless open/close controls for the faceplate. I realize that cheap rf transmitter/receiver units combined with the virtual wire libraries could be used (or IR can as well) but it looks like this package has it all nicely integrated.
 
Yeah.. I have posted it many times.. :)

this is just where "I" personally get my stuff from.. (you can the same/similar other places).. but for me, this guy is ROCK solid, best customer service you could ask for. No matter what.. when I order.. I know it'll be great and show-up. :)


but here are some links:

Li-Ion charger:
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger

good for all future projects as well.


Battery packs:
7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack

7.4v Li-ion 1050mAh 14650 Battery Pack

7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack


Re-charge PORT, so you can keep the batteries in the prop.. and re-charge them:
Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack

this can ALSO double as a kill key.. when not charging..or not in use.. you can put a 'kill key' in there.. and it will cut power to the circuit.. saving battery rundown.


You'd most likely want a SIDE BY SIDE pack though.. (or get your own, protected, recharageable 18650 batteries and make your own pack), plenty of videos out there, some wire, some solder and some heatshrink :)


wifi, RF, bluetooth.. its up to you what you want to implement..

bluetooth can allow your prop/project to be run by phone or PC too. :)


shameless plug:

check out their saberbuilder/MHS builder app:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/mhsbuilder/mhsbuilder.php


;)
 
xl97 how could i incorporate bluetooth in to my suit what are some cool examples


dude.. what IS your real question? lol

first it was back flaps (was edited before I could reply).. then you post nothing but 1 word.. "ARM LAUNCHER".. (nothing else)..

now its bluetooth?

the short is.. get a bluetooth module.. and hook it up.. lol

most of the BT modules are fairly cheap.. and serial based, which makes them also fairly easy to use/implement..

I cat/wont go into too much detail, because (as I have stated) I am planning a BT option in some of my stuff.. (helmet, and repulsors) so they can be trigger/controlled by mobile phone/pc for an 'extremis' effect... :)

but really... it shouldnt be any different than serial communication... there are MANY bluetooth tutorials out there I believe.. walk you through set-up..etc..
:)
 
I can add to what XL97 said: if you don't want to solder, keep the cells separated and easily accessible, there's still the option of the battery holder.

Like this:

7.4V 2 x 18650 Battery Holder Case Box with Leads - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

nice... to be clear.. those 18650 cells/batteries are pretty FAT/big.. :)

if you got the space.. probably have good/long run times.. if not.. maybe have to get 'fancy'?

just remember the batteries yo get should be protected/re-chargeable types :)
 
I got my eyes PCB! I soldered everything and ran some tests.

I got some trouble. As you can see on the pictures, I made a simple circuit to test the PCB with button but that doesn't work.

PCB is powered by external battery, arduino is powered by usb, arduino ground is connected to the other ground.

I tried the blinking sketch with my board and that works so I assume I soldered everything correctly. Also checked the LEDs separately. They work.

What I do:
- connect everything
- check the code
- upload the code

The LEDs are bright but the button do nothing. I haven't connected the servos. Only tested the LEDs.

If I disconnect the USB port, the LEDs stays bright and the LED on the arduino are still on too, seems strange to me.

Any advice? Thanks
 

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1.) what battery pack are you using? +7.4 volts? are the resistors on your eye pcb rated for the direct +7.4v+ pack? (most diagrams have the source coming from/after the +5v voltage regulator that powers the servos too. (so Im checking/asking)

2.) Is the switch in the one position? (hard to see) can you run a simple button sketch and get the button working first..?


you say a simple BLINK sketch using the same pin the eye pcb/transistor is hooked up to does WORK though?
 
I tried 2 batteries 3.2V and 4.7V. I still don't have the Vreg so I don't want to blow everything up.

The resistors are rated for regulated 5V. This is why I used two <5V batteries.

The switch is on position 2 (as usual with this sketch).

The BLINK sketch with PCB connected on pin 5 (same as for the faceplate design) work.

I tried (but will try again) a simple sketch with button but didn't work. Tried 2 different buttons.
 
the resistors should have been calculated for a smidge UNDER +5v.. (remember)..

the voltage drop across the transistor?

anyways...

the +3.2v battery wont cut it.. it wont even turn on the leds without resistors.. if the fV is +3.3v (maybe it will but not for long?...you get what Im saying)..
over the transistor..and resistors.. no way (IMHO at least)

the +4.7v maybe...

Im not asking what pin the switch is connected to.. Im saying is it in the right position/orientation on the breadboard?

get a plain button sketch working.. THEN move on to incorporate the eye pcb's..etc..

you'll get it! :)
 
I'll give another try tomorrow with a fresh head. Will start again at the beginning then add the PCB :)

BTW, yeah, the switch was correctly oriented. Thanks XL97!
 
It worked. Dunno what I connected wrong but I start from scratch, made all the connections and that works.


Sorry for the french talking.
 
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Thank you for this thread! I am getting ready to buy all of my parts to make two of these. However, after reading the thread and a search for bluetooth and not finding much, What kind of remote and receiver should I buy? Also would there be code changes that I need to make?

Thank you!
 
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