Iron man motorised faceplate electronics tutorial!!!

Very impressive! And I must say thank your for sharing. I plan on implementing this into my next few helmets now.

Also just to be sure, if say, we were using something else for the LED's in the eyes, we just need to skip the appropriate steps which you mentioned in first post?

Also for anyone looking for an arduino "kit" I found this starter kit on Amazon
Amazon.com: Starter Kit for Newsite Uno R3 - Bundle of 6 Items: Newsite Uno R3, Breadboard, Holder, Jumper Wires, USB Cable and 9V Battery Connector: Computers & Accessories

^^(assuming that this is appropriate)^^
 
Yes just skip the steps I mentioned.

That kit is right but please note that it doesn't come with LED resistors or switch.
 
Right, and as for the motors (or servos? are they interchangeable?) any one in particular? I noticed yours said micro servo and I found this with a quick google search Dagu Micro Servo Motor - RobotShop

And they don't require any sort of external power source just the source being provided to the arduino?

Sorry I know a bit about electronics but am a total noob when it comes to this servo stuff.
 
most servos -can- be powered by the Arduino directly.. (temporarily, under no load.. not for final project)

most motors can -not-.....

(usually need alot more current than any Arduino pin can provide..)

there is also protection circuit recommended when using a motor you trigger the motor on/off as it spikes.. and could damage the Arduino directly..


I can probably help with the Arduino code a well.. just not sure all what you want done..etc
 
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most servos -can- be powered by the Arduino directly..

most motors can -not-.....

(usually need alot more current than any Arduino pin can provide..)

there is also protection circuit recommended when using a motor you trigger the motor on/off as it spikes.. and could damage the Arduino directly..


I can probably help with the Arduino code a well.. just not sure all what you want done..etc

Dude are you able to write the eye flicker into the code?

Don't forget everyone, this can also be used for flight stabilisers.
 
eye flicker?

lol.... Im not sure I guess..

Im not 'up' on all the IronMan canon stuff as most of you guys are here..


I dont know if I have an extra servo laying around anymore or not to test with.. (I broke my last one trying to mod for 360 degree rotation and 'faster' gear ratio speed)..

but I dont think it'll be that hard to be honest..


lets get a list of 'effects' of things you want to happen.. and we'll start there.. :)
 
you would have/make a separate PCB (with leds) for each eye.. then connect them to your 'main' board for controlling..
 
The flicker effect I'm suggesting is to mimic powering up. Flicker twice then solid light.

Dirtybrit, The eye location on the breadboard is described in first post. It's represented by the green LED in my photos. Without looking I'm sure it's steps 3,4,5,17.
 
just a wuick two flicker before fully on is needed..


also.. question:

how are you doing your servo stopping? by time? position? limit switch?
 
Position AND time. The servos are programmed to move 180 degrees and are given a time limit of 15ms to get there. I think that's a nice speed and rotational degree. If anybody needs less distance or wants it to open and close faster or slower, I will explain how to change the code at a later date.
 
7sinzz & Ironleoman - Thank you for going through the trouble of learning this and then for starting this thread to share that knowledge. I have been scared s***less by this aurduino stuff, but now, with this, I can't wait to play around with it. Thanks also to those of you that have or will post here with tips/tricks/code/etc.

Subscribed!
 
Thank you so much man! I have read countless threads and micro controller tutorials on how to learn to do this but it seems to be the one thing I just can't teach my self. Now you have given a solid starting point I will ditch my portable battery powered hand drill disection idea and go back to using servos in my lid.
A daft bonus for me is that it was a fellow Brit that brought this to light for us all :)

Tom.
 
You can add all the LEDs you want by having the Arduino output trigger a transistor instead of the LEDs directly. That keeps the chip from having to source/sink much current, and won't require a change to the code.
 
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