Dredd 3D pep helmet - files now available
- Thread starter Blaxmyth
- Start date
Littlemuseum
Member
Hi! Would it be possible to let me know what type of paper do you use for making this incredible helmet?
Blaxmyth
Sr Member
Don't worry about stuff ups! I have probably assembled three or four items for every one I've completed.
I see you are new to pep, so here's what I wish I hadn't had to learn the hard way:
1. Use really good quality PVA, applied with a toothpick to the tabs. Go for the type that builders use - should have 'aliphatic cross-bonding' somewhere on the label - it's got a grip like a money-lender's dog!
2. Score the tabs with the back of a knife blade. Practice on some spare card first.
3. For valley folds, make a small hole in each end of the fold with a pin, then score the line from the other side, using the pin holdes as a guide. (I know it takes longer, but the fold is much crisper.
4. Score all of the lines before cutting the pieces out.
5. Narrower tabs are easier to work with and cause less distortion. They are easier to sand or cover on the finished product.
6. Use a needle and thread to pull misaligned parts into their proper place when you are resinning the finished pep.
Have fun!
I see you are new to pep, so here's what I wish I hadn't had to learn the hard way:
1. Use really good quality PVA, applied with a toothpick to the tabs. Go for the type that builders use - should have 'aliphatic cross-bonding' somewhere on the label - it's got a grip like a money-lender's dog!
2. Score the tabs with the back of a knife blade. Practice on some spare card first.
3. For valley folds, make a small hole in each end of the fold with a pin, then score the line from the other side, using the pin holdes as a guide. (I know it takes longer, but the fold is much crisper.
4. Score all of the lines before cutting the pieces out.
5. Narrower tabs are easier to work with and cause less distortion. They are easier to sand or cover on the finished product.
6. Use a needle and thread to pull misaligned parts into their proper place when you are resinning the finished pep.
Have fun!
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TheSarge
New Member
This is awesome. I've started two other helmets, this one looks slightly more accurate regarding the the cross section under the badge to the 2012 Dredd version. I've just downloaded the file and I look forward to building this one as well :cheers
Here are the two i've already started on, Just need to start the fibreglassing process etc.
Credit goes to stilgarhammer for the 1995 Judge Dredd helmet and the Dredd helmet would i be correct this is dung0beetle pep file? I found it on another thread but there was no credit to it... :confused
Here are the two i've already started on, Just need to start the fibreglassing process etc.
Credit goes to stilgarhammer for the 1995 Judge Dredd helmet and the Dredd helmet would i be correct this is dung0beetle pep file? I found it on another thread but there was no credit to it... :confused
Judge Creswell
New Member
Just signed up to here after seeing this. File downloaded hoping to start on it when work time permits next week. Thanks for posting the pep file!
Just resined my Dredd helmet!
Things I wish I'd paid more attention to:
Thanks again to Dung0Beetle and Blaxmyth for the amazing file.
Things I wish I'd paid more attention to:
- Score and pre-bend ALL folds first!
- Practice with the glue gun first
- Never drop your freshly resined pep on a dusty workshop floor
Thanks again to Dung0Beetle and Blaxmyth for the amazing file.
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Blaxmyth
Sr Member
Looking good! Nothing wrong with it. One modification I'm getting round to doing is to make the two 'bridges' from the cheeks to the ends of the 'X' into stiffened prisms. Otherwise I suggest you glue on a popsicle stick to stiffen them up. My one suffered from some distortion and I've got to redo it.
Dropped into the dust? Yep, done that as well.
:thumbsup
Dropped into the dust? Yep, done that as well.
:thumbsup
Just resined my Dredd helmet!
Things I wish I'd paid more attention to:
- Score and pre-bend ALL folds first!
- Practice with the glue gun first
- Never drop your freshly resined pep on a dusty workshop floor
Thanks again to Dung0Beetle and Blaxmyth for the amazing file.
Thanks jolive and blaxmyth.
Yeah both of the reinforcing prisms came unglued during the resining process. This is more the fault of the gluer than the glue
Lining up the cheeks for fibreglassing is going to be fun...
Now I'm off to fibreglass this puppy!
Yeah both of the reinforcing prisms came unglued during the resining process. This is more the fault of the gluer than the glue
Lining up the cheeks for fibreglassing is going to be fun...
Now I'm off to fibreglass this puppy!
Blaxmyth
Sr Member
Just before you start the fibreglassing, how about using some hot dog sticks to align the cheeks?
I've done this before by using thread to sew the stick to an area that I wanted to bend, then using thread or wire to tension the stick so it warped the part into the correct place, then gently fibreglassed it with a light layer of cloth.
Once it's set, you can cut the thread and sand any hardened bits of thread or stick away.
Just a thought. Good luck!
I've done this before by using thread to sew the stick to an area that I wanted to bend, then using thread or wire to tension the stick so it warped the part into the correct place, then gently fibreglassed it with a light layer of cloth.
Once it's set, you can cut the thread and sand any hardened bits of thread or stick away.
Just a thought. Good luck!
Thanks for the tip Blaxmyth, I'll give that a shot.
Only got to do one row of fibreglass (Nose cross to the back of the helmet) before the spawnling woke up from her afternoon nap.
As you can see, it is wonky as hell at the moment, hope I can staighten it up in the fibreglassing process.
So just hoping that doing the fibreglass over a few days isn't going to effect the outcome.
Only got to do one row of fibreglass (Nose cross to the back of the helmet) before the spawnling woke up from her afternoon nap.
As you can see, it is wonky as hell at the moment, hope I can staighten it up in the fibreglassing process.
So just hoping that doing the fibreglass over a few days isn't going to effect the outcome.
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Blaxmyth
Sr Member
No, polyester resin is OK (in my experience) if the coats are within a few days.
You can also use a heat gun to soften and reshape fibreglass, within limits.
Great thing about pep is that there isn't much wasted apart from time and some resin if things do go wonky. Plus bondo (known as 'bog' in NZ) fixes most things, lots of thin coats sanded well.
Number one rule - it's a hobby, so have fun!
You can also use a heat gun to soften and reshape fibreglass, within limits.
Great thing about pep is that there isn't much wasted apart from time and some resin if things do go wonky. Plus bondo (known as 'bog' in NZ) fixes most things, lots of thin coats sanded well.
Number one rule - it's a hobby, so have fun!
Finished fibreglassing tonight!
I’m amazed at how tough the fibreglass is, never having worked with it before this is an amazing experience.
I’m hoping the wonky cheek will be fixed by bracing the helmet while the fibreglass and resin sets.
With luck the fibreglass will set in close to the correct position and then the smoothing with Builder’s Bog can begin!
I’m amazed at how tough the fibreglass is, never having worked with it before this is an amazing experience.
I’m hoping the wonky cheek will be fixed by bracing the helmet while the fibreglass and resin sets.
With luck the fibreglass will set in close to the correct position and then the smoothing with Builder’s Bog can begin!
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